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Nighttime view of enclosure with lights on. 20240410_205215.mp4
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Daylight view of enclosure with lights on. 20240409_131331.mp4
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I removed the Stinger X RCAs and replaced them with Rhyno RCAs. Sorry I haven't cleaned up the wiring some but I haven't messed with this system since I installed the JL DSP. 20240409_114311.mp4
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Well maybe not totally. I joined back in 2003 when the site came back up. I took about a 15 year hiatus from car audio. Spent some time in college, spent some time on my career, spent a little time on life. Now I'm in a comfortable spot in life where I have the time for treating my car like a toy again. So I figure why not stop back by one of the best forums I remember. I'm Alex, from northern illinois, the only older piece of equipment I still have is an old blown Avionixx AXT800.2 so don't expect to see any OG gear haha. I'm still a noob, hoping to gain as much knowledge as I can as quickly as I can about newer gear and doing a simple install in my boring '23 Forester. PS excuse all the numbers in the name, I was really young when I made this screen name, admin please lemme know if its possible to change this nonsense
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AncientAlienOG joined the community
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worldsellers joined the community
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Can’t decide on amp for two kicker comp q 12’s
jcarter1885 replied to audiohz's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Just depends on music choice really since most songs aren't really under 30 hz. But to be safe an adjustable subsonic filter will be wise especially if you are playing rebassed or boosted songs. -
Can’t decide on amp for two kicker comp q 12’s
audiohz replied to audiohz's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
The kicker having a fixed sub sonic filter at 25hz 24db slope , the E1500 has an adjustable SSF with a 12db slope. My enclosure is tuned to 35hz . Just don’t want to have any issues with playing to far below tuning. -
Can’t decide on amp for two kicker comp q 12’s
jcarter1885 replied to audiohz's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
You won't hear a difference in power so just flip a coin, either amp will be a solid choice. -
Can’t decide on amp for two kicker comp q 12’s
audiohz posted a topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I have two kicker comp q 12’s dual 4ohm and looking at two different amps , the kicker cxa 1800.1 and the D’Amore engineering E1500.1 . Love the idea of the E1500 but I feel like the kicker would be better power wise just not sure . -
john michal joined the community
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Yeah my factory battery was a group 43 but I seen a dude fit a 48, so I went that route. It was snug but it fit like a glove. The only company I found at the time who would make an H/O alternator was Brand X and mine is a 270. Had it installed in Summer of 22 and no issues yet, he had bigger sizes but this size was the most reliable and dependable. I have 2/0 welding cable all throughout the ride. 2 power runs from front battery to rear batteries. Amps grounded to batteries, rear batteries grounded in spare tire well. One positive and negative run from front battery to alternator. And 4 grounds under the hood too. I been meaning that call Brand X and see if grounds from front battery to rear battery or from alternator to rear battery would make any differences.
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What kind of alternator did you go with in that VW? I think your car would have the group 47 battery? Mine is the 48 so I've got a few more electronics I think as well as being a midsize SUV. Where did you use the 2/0 cable at? 2 runs of pos to the rear from the batt or alt? Yeah I fucking wish I could just yank that head unit out. I was planning on using the old Pioneer DEH 80PRS but that plan went up in smoke quick. Its fitting that I left off with probs in that Merc and getting new ones for the Audi. I'm half tempted to drive it by the shop of Steve Meade Designs here in Sac and ask them what they would do lol. I met Steve before but I highly doubt he would remember me. I know exactly where the shop is and it looks like he has a walk in storefront of some kind. Maybe when I get the electrical done I might cruise by
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I'm not sure what you mean by "jump inputs" for amps. Come to think of it, my stock speakers are actually 2 ohm besides the trunk sub and possibly the front center channel as well. I think those might be 8 ohm. Your suggestion had me thinking of instead of just classic wiring one speaker for each channel, I could run 2 of each mid/high in parallel for a 2 ohm load. I would use both doors on each side together. That would leave me with 4 channels and using only one amp. What do you think of that route? Ok well I like the idea of keeping shit the same so since I don't have to buy the isolator, I'll use it. I might end up using AGM under the hood and lithium in the rear. That's too bad about the resting voltage. I cranked mine up a few notches in my old truck but this is obviously much different. I guess I will find all this out when searching the vagcom software. I'm gonna have to get that and a decent laptop. Or a tablet I guess. Will those work too? I just need it for that and possibly a DSP software since I would have the ability to use it then. Plus they could make this install a bit easier. Hopefully
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Yeah, you don’t have to run one, it’s just anouther way to keep the charging system intact and separated from the oem. I did it because I have enough reserve but either will be fine, I just always worry about the Electrical,,
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I don't have an isolator in my VW and have no problems with voltage or anything to that affect. Granted I have an aftermarket alternator, but stock wiring still intact. When I had the factory alternator and battery in, it did limit my voltage. Just by doing the big 3 and upgrading my front battery to an Odyssey Group 48 AGM I gained .5volts. I went from a voltage at idle with lights on and A/C from 13.8v to 14.3v. Once I did the h/o alternator, I didn't have any other voltage issues. Now at times during the winter I can see voltage as high as 15.3 and 14.5-8v during the summer and I'm in Texas. OP sucks you can't take your factory radio out because the one in my car sucked, using Bluetooth it would just go silent for like two seconds every 30 minutes or so give or take. Everyone said it's just something with the radios they use when using the Bluetooth setting. I had soany issues with the factory radio and NAV-TV unit that it made me rip out my radio and replace it with a Sony head unit, I haven't had any issues since. Yes codes are crazy, I had to take it to a shop to get all that stuff figured out since my car was new and no information was out about it at the time.
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The link 8 will work also, really just depends on your needs, typically you jump inputs for your amps, I’d personally run one 4 channel for all 8 highs and mids with passive crossovers (assuming they are all 4 ohm,) but that’s just me, less equipment the better ,again just how I would, I originally picked up the Wavtech for a Fiat I’m building and tbh price/features and spec was the biggest reason for the purchase,, worked flawless and didn’t have to grab 3 diffrent pieces.. as far as the isolator,, do you have to use one? Nah… but with that car(or any Audi for that matter) keeping the factory charging system and your aftermarket charging system separate is just a safe call,, the car regulates voltage output post factory battery, so the less you mess with its resting voltage the less likely your going to run into issues… rofl, if you thought the Mercedes was a fickle pos wait till you start playing with Audis electrical yeah, I tell anyone that get into Audi or and VW product the first purchase should be a Vag-com or what ever it’s called now, lol it’s saved me thousands of dollars in Repairs and trouble shooting.. and being able to adapt and reprogram with it is just awesome.. you can unlock a ton features in your car with it as well
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Hell yeah man I appreciate the help. What are the reasons that led you to use the WavTech over the Audiocontrol units? I don't have any brand specific needs for this build with the equipment that I need to buy. I just want to make sure I understand why and that it works w/o issues . My first question would be, shouldn't I get the Link 8 so I can use all the factory door speakers? Then also get a Link2 for the sub? I guess the same basic plan I had for using LOCs except not Audiocontrol. The link 6 would leave me short one channel of input right? Oh shit that CAN word gives me nightmares from the old Merc. When you say stereo, you mean the stock amp right? I don't even think changing the head unit is an option. Or just replacing the speakers will throw codes? This is exactly what I need to avoid. I want to do this slowly and make sure everything stays the same. Just want crazy beat lol. This is actually my first newer car. I plan on having it at least 5 years so I'm gonna do this right the first time. Ok so just changing the battery will throw codes? I see this vagcom is a software to buy. They had to change the name cause of copyright. Did they not think that was taken yet?? Sounds like something I could use in other areas for the car as well. Well damn ok this is all great info! I have a battery isolator but would love to hear your input on why I should use it. I don't really listen to music with the car off but its prob for another reason I'm assuming. Hell I'd just buy what you tell me to get if you have already done this in a similar Audi before. Not too much info out there for what I'm trying to do. I usually depend on Yt videos but they all seem to be the same stuff.
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I'm right there with ya! I can't wait to have some real beat again. It's been way too many years.
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If it was me,I’m accually working on an Audi now, Id skip the audiocontrol and use the WavTech Link 6(it’ll give you everything you need)…remove the factory amps and wire in from there, the CAN system on those cars are a nitemare and will pick up that something has been added into the system IF you replace the stereo your car will throw codes ,also look at getting your self a Vagcom as you will have to marry/adapt your battery to the car and you can correct the codes .. or you’ll get early replacement warnings.. also possible consider isolating your rear battery from the front, if you have and specific questions feel free to hit me up I’ll help where I can
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Looking forward to this build!!
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That's the route I went and love mine, took the weight out of my trunk by removing the group 31 battery, and my voltage doesn't drop as much plus it looks cleaner than having that huge battery back there.
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Man you right those batts are tiny! Not very much more than the batts I was looking at except for the Titan. Considering my alt is 370 amp, that LTO batt would be in the 5k watt range. I would only need one of those but 2 would make it nice for future upgrades. The 2 pack combo, add buss bars with charger looks perfect. I'm sold lol. I have a bnib 500 amp isolator from NVX that is old as well. Looks like it will stay in the box.
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I would do with a XS Power Titan battery for the rear, lithium is the way to go and much lighter as well. Honestly you may not need to upgrade the front battery if you get an LTO battery, they work with normal batteries and don't need an isolator. Just a thought
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I've been looking into using 9 of the 10 speaker system for amplifiers. The 4 door tweeters and 4 mids with sub. I'd like to keep the front center channel playing from the stock amp if possible. The prob I have currently is not knowing exactly how the high level input signal is tapped into. I've never had to use speaker level inputs let alone with a stock integrated amp. I'm trying to plan what parts I need but I need to understand this better. I still want to retain all the stock chimes and alert/alarm noises but don't want all that coming thru the sub etc at same volume. Would I cut any of the existing speaker wires or just splice into them and where would I do that at? The videos and diagrams I've seen are pretty contradictory. If I'm replacing all the speakers and running wire from my amps, will that affect the radio in sensing that there isn't a speaker hooked up anymore? I'm guessing I cut/splice into the speaker wires before they go into the the stock amp to get the speaker input? Would I leave the one center front channel speaker wire hooked up the the factory amp and cut the others for the LOC? Or leave them all connected to the amp and just splice into the wires? Is this the best place to get the signal? I have no idea what's going on there. I'm stuck for now. From that point I feel like I have a better understanding of what's going on. I was looking at using several pieces from AudioControl like an LC8i for all 8 mids and tweets. Then a LC2i PRO for the sub channel. That would easily place all nine channels. Then from there I'd use Y connectors on both mids and tweets channels from the LC8i to run to something like a LC7i PRO or a DQ-61, etc. Ultimately after that I'd like to use and EQX or some kind of EQ or EQ/crossover combo if possible. Then also toss in the Epicenter Micro. Not sure what order all of it goes in but i think at least it's gotta start with the LOC. My new Mechman 370 amp billet alternator got here today. I will be concentrating on running the big 3, installing the new alt, and running several 1/0ga power runs to the rear while I plan the components. I think I have enuf for about 3 runs, maybe 4. I'd like to use all that I have left from a 50ft spool I bought years ago. I will get an XS Power D4800 battery for under the hood very soon. I will also get the charger to make sure I install it at full power. I'm not getting it yet but I'd like to get a secondary battery like a D3100. After I get the main electrical done with main battery, I will decide what secondary battery to use while beginning to order the OEM integration parts. That would prob be all I'd ever need for that vehicle. Eventually I will mess around and get a larger sub amp/sub to see what it can do so the extra power will come in handy.
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I got the TWK88 installed and I will remove the RCA labels later aswell as clean up the wiring some more. I just wanted to get the DSP in and turning on for now, I'll tune tonight or tomorrow.
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You're tellin me. That Merc project was a fucking nightmare. I plan on keeping the stock head unit to avoid any probs. I kinda like the stock look too. Too many bells and whistles in plain view could attract unwanted attention. I'll definitely look into the NAV screen replacement more tho as i just whizzed by a few videos on YT that seemed pretty straight forward. Do a deeper dive into the reviews and bugs that arise from the installation. I really don't want any stupid probs by just trying to upgrade shit for the sake of it. I like a larger screen but at zero potential neg costs. Beat is definitely the main focus. One thing I did notice right away is that you lose the ability to fold down the screen if you want to. Ive never had any kind of NAV besides a pos garmin add on for like $50 so this one is pretty sweet already. I found one answer to my questions on a YT video about the LC2i PRO. If using it only for a single sub channel, they say to use the left channel high input only. I think I may have jumbled my question in the last post asking about the sub and ohm shit. I'd like to know exactly what needs to be wired up to what so I know if I have enuf old cables laying around to finish the job. Now I'm debating adding the EQX into the mix as well. My list looks like the LC8i for the mids and tweets(4 front and 4 rear), LC2i PRO for the sub, EQX for all of it if possible, and the Epicenter micro for bass.
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Well shit that makes sense why I can't find them anywhere lol. Thank you for that large piece of helpful info! I definitely don't wanna deal with any bs on the tech side. I'll just stick to the LOCs, Epicenter, and EQs then. Makes the potential game plan a bit different too. I'm interested to see how the JL works out for you. It looks like quite the unit and JL been around for a while too. No worries about the long post. I appreciate the detail!
