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shizzzon

Important Kinetik Battery info for those with problems

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Well, i just spent the last few days researchin this myth of Iraggi alts and kinetik batts dont go together...

That sounds stupid, i know, but people have problems so i decided to try and find the answer.

What i have found is interesting if you didn't know so hopefully this will help those that already have their batts and those planning on purchasing as well.

A long time ago in China there was.....

Oh oops, wrong story.

Ok, here is the theoretical problem-

Kinetik batts are only capable of accepting voltages up to 14.3v MAX

Voltages above 14.3v can only be done in quick spurts.

Kinetik told me that anything over 3-4hrs of constant voltage higher than 14.3v will lead to permanent damage.

The battery will begin to swell then start damaging cells.

When this happens, the battery will no longer be able to hold a charge.

So that means if you got any Kinetik batts that can't hold a charge, this may be what happened to you.

I can see this being a REAL bad problem for those who have or are deciding to replace your starting battery with one of these.

Now, for those who have them in the rear, due to voltage drop, depending on how bad it is, the worse the better... to a degree of course.

If your alt charges these batts over 14.3v briefly, maybe just for 10-15min trips for example, in the long run, the battery will still fail.

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but what if you have one on a stock 110amp alt? is it still possible to go over 14.3?

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Well see i dont know

I was just about to post it's ok for a stock alt but..... that might be correct for older cars...

These newer cars like mine, the ECU controls the alt so I can't just say yes or no.

But, i can tell you this to help you find the answer quick and easy-

Have something in your car that pulls a big load, such as an aftermarket stereo system.

Play a test tone at fill tilt.

Get a DMM and measure the voltage at the battery terminal on starting battery before the test tone plays, then while it is playing, then about 30 seconds after the test tone is done and ALL loads have ceased.

See what your voltage reads during all those. IF it's ever over 14.3v, it's not a good choice to go with a kinetik in that install.

Same thing goes with batts in the rear.

People have an advantage because there is voltage drop. How much? you must measure and see.

I'm gonna be hookin my 3/0 wire up in a couple of weeks and when i do, i'm gonna measure voltage drop from front to rear so i know what product will work best for me.

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Looks like bad news for every one who suckered up and bought one of those Missing Link Audio voltage boosters.

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i guess im keep my yellow top up front for now and wait to get a pawermaster battery for the front seems like. since i got a iraggi alt 300

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John, I'd pull those kinetics and sell em. Should be able to get your money back for them enough to the point where you can buy a couple of D3100's

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i guess im keep my yellow top up front for now and wait to get a pawermaster battery for the front seems like. since i got a iraggi alt 300

It's highly unlikely it has anything to do with his alt.

I'm assuming it's just that his alt may produce a higher voltage than others without modding anything.

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i guess im keep my yellow top up front for now and wait to get a pawermaster battery for the front seems like. since i got a iraggi alt 300

It's highly unlikely it has anything to do with his alt.

I'm assuming it's just that his alt may produce a higher voltage than others without modding anything.

yea it might not be just with his alt lol but i know when i talked to dominick on the phone and told him i was still undeisided on kinetik or PM he was like ohhh no dont use kinetik at all we have nothing but probs with them get one of the powermaster xs batts so i was like ok lol im wating for my 300amp alt in the mail now orderd it monday :)

Edited by dsgfierce1

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exactly, i can understand why he says that.

A lot of HO type alts run at minimum of 14.4v then of course if u have externally regulated alts, it's up to you how much you want to have.

14.3v isn't fair, in my opinion, for an upgrade and can see why people would have problems.

Powermasters can accept up to 15.0v according to their site so that's a lot more convenient.

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So if I'm running about 2200 watts with a 170 amp alt, what size/how many of those Powermasters would I want?

(have a yellow top up front)

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well, you actually have enough alt power to run your whole stereo system so you are in good shape.

It really depends on how long you listen to music loud at a given time.

Companies would like you to use about 100 aH worth of batts in the rear but i think you don't need really that much.

for Powermaster, i think you could do fine with a D5100 or higher.

Tryin to save you money here because you don't have to go all out with your setup.

how is your electrical system now or have you not tried it yet?

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Well I'm piecing everything together. I will have the subs, ordered two NINe.1 amps, and I have a price quote on a 170A alt.

So if I just get the alt, I'll be fine with the yellow top I have under the hood? It's a new yellow top and I've already done the Big 3...well battery ground, anyway. As soon as I get that alt I'll do the rest.

Edited by shooter69

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damnit shizzzon why didnt you tell me this when i talked to you about getting a kinetiks hc800? lol. i hate my audio life, no money more problems.

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shizzon thanks for doing the research about this, this will help a lot of people in their setup decisions for the future.

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No problem.

Hey phi, i'm not really saying in concrete he is fine with that setup, i was wondering if he had already ran his setup like that... i see he hasnt even got the alt yet.

So, i suggest him to get at least something back there if he plans on it. Ruls of thumb would say he would need 100aH back there but i say if u already got the alt power to run the whole setup, then practically any battery power is sufficient in my opinion. If you had a 200A alt, i'd say you could just run caps and be fine. 170A i do not think is large enough for a just cap install, throw a small batt in there, like a 60-100aH batt and you should be fine.

IF you had a 200A alt, i'd say an HC800 would be fine (if ur voltage is low enough) or some similar type cap.

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wait wat? lol. if i get the 200a alt then with the hc800 i think i would be somewhere around 14.4 b/c with the bxi1606d i didnt get any voltage drops really. but im prolly gonna go with the 180a alt. from Dom. it was just when my ac/heating was turned on then voltage dropped like crazy. but maybe if i have the us amp in, then more voltage would drop without the ac/heating on. O, and i gonna want to know how much for that "sub" cus i might sell my ssd... hehe.

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Don't regular "wet" lead acid batteries start gassing at 14.4V too?

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wait wat? lol. if i get the 200a alt then with the hc800 i think i would be somewhere around 14.4 b/c with the bxi1606d i didnt get any voltage drops really. but im prolly gonna go with the 180a alt. from Dom. it was just when my ac/heating was turned on then voltage dropped like crazy. but maybe if i have the us amp in, then more voltage would drop without the ac/heating on. O, and i gonna want to know how much for that "sub" cus i might sell my ssd... hehe.

Yea, your alt is powerful enough. Even with an hc800, you "might" get quick spurts of dimming but that should only happen when the hc800 is temporarily discharged.

You will be fine.

That "sub" looks good next to a 260 price tag.(dual 2 ohm)

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no i dont think i would get dimming, i really dont get dimming now either well barely. but that price tag doesnt look too attractive.lol. how much juice were you giving to it again? i havent looked at the specs of it but its a step up from my baby right?

Edited by phi

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Don't regular "wet" lead acid batteries start gassing at 14.4V too?

They gas at any time they are being charged.

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A step up from yours? hehe, it's like comparing midbass to subwoofer, trust me.

The amp that was on that sub, i metered it outputting between ~250-1018w of clean power. I then sent the amp into clipping and was able to get ~1,400w max but that was it.

When these subs used to be made, they sold for $410 after shipping.

Almost half off is killer deal.

Rated for 1,000w... that's a joke.

They are known for being able to take 2kw all day, 3kw for short term durations when done properly and up to 6kw on burps.

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man i kinda want to hear them. is the sound quality clean? i dont want mud lol. well if i do get that baby from you then it would be great with my going-to-be fixed amp. ima see if someone would my baby for 200, that would be nice.

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if u got a box for the 15, bring it over when you get an amp to push it.

Box size needs to be around 4 cubes NET tuned between 34-40hz.

For ported, it is muddy, there is no other way around sayin that, it's loud as hell muddy.

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