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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 4 points
    Time for a website update. Fully mobile friendly, top notch product photos and a smoother layout. Introducing the all new www.SSAudio.com http://www.SSAudio.com #ArriveLoud
  3. 3 points
    Sean I bent your metal today while I was at the shop this morning.I still have to space the holes for the dummy lights I can do that at home.I bent these on a 8' brake lol.I went ahead a made you 2 of them so you can choose the one you like best.These are hand made so might no be as good as a computer plasma type deal but hopefully these will work for what you need it for.The 8'foot brake was about a bit to much to bend these little brackets lol..I put some 1/4 hems on them turned to the inside so the brackets would not have sharp edges and would add strength.I will get those holes layed out for you,be thinking if you may want to try out a different lay out for those dummy lights on that extra one I bent you or something just incase that first idea don't work out.
  4. 2 points
    Sweet build going on in Corona, CA using Second Skin sound and heat insulation to give the driver some relief from that HUGE engine on his back. Damplifier Pro (CLD) to kill the vibration and Luxury Liner Pro (MLV) to help tame down some of that engine noise and thermally insulate. Can you guess what vehicle is being built here?
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    So the issue with the midbass is pretty much solved. see this thread: I'm planning to start the A pillar pods this weekend. But first I made a small upgrade to the amps. Polk must be clearing old stock because you can grab the PAD2000.2's for $50 each (these are the same as the PPI 600.2). Great $/watt. I'm running one to each midbass. These replaced some very old Kicker 250.2's I bought 10 years ago. I was planning to grab a second nvx 4 channel to clean up the install a bit but this was such a great deal. I considered grabbing another to replace the subwoofer amp. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HNRLCXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 some before and after pics. apologize for the wiring disaster.
  7. 1 point
    I teach economics and history, NOT reading. hahahahahaha, my bad.
  8. 1 point
    I'm still finding stuff and going through all the paperwork, but here is a short list: BBK longtubes BBK O/R X-pipe Flowmaster catback Boss 302 Intake JLT "cold air" BBK throttle body C&L mass air meter Throttle sensitivity adjuster Eibach Pro suspension kit. This includes springs/dampers/ and bushings at all four corners plus larger front and rear sway bars. BMR upper control arm mount, upper control arm, and lower control arms. BMR panhard bar JLT catch can 4:10 ring/pinion SCT livewire tuning by Brenspeed Several other things I've not yet found. Luckily, all this has been professionally installed and tuned by a well-known Mustang speed shop which is actually only a one hour drive.
  9. 1 point
    SO, this guy had this car posted for sale several months ago for $15.2K. It has over $10K in mods. Just ridiculous. ! owner car. I see this car every day as the guy lives and works close. I was getting ready to pull the trigger on a really nice Tacoma. I came home Wednesday for lunch and just so happened to check Craigslist and this car was the first thing that popped up. What hooked me was the price. $!0K! I thought it was BS, so I emailed the guy to call me. He did so 10 minutes later and 3 hours later I was checking it out. I told him I'd go the bank in the AM, and he said if I bought it by Friday he'd give it to me for $9K! I went to the bank to get a small loan to cover what I didn't have in cash and the loan officer valued the car at $16.5. I figure the mods add another $2K, so I have effectively doubled my money. I went to pick it up this morning and he gives me all the stock parts and other parts he purchased but never installed or just changed because he wanted to. So, now I have the car, AND another 2Gs, in parts! I hate yellow, in a bad way, but this is a no-brainer from an investment standpoint.
  10. 1 point
    I wish they were all this way. Pure gain block with a big sink and some damn fins!
  11. 1 point
    ONLY use 1 crossover. So yes full. Outside of an amp with a digital processor I would NEVER use an amp for running active. If that was my only choice I'd build passives and call it a day. Make sure if you go the headunit route though that you get one with the capability to bandpass the mid.
  12. 1 point
    I'm actually not afraid to underpower the mids. I'm actually more worried about overpowering the sub. I could test both setups though and watch the gains when I test the sub on the bridged kronos.
  13. 1 point
    This is the route I would take. Just Saying. Like posted earlier, you don’t need a nuclear reactor to power this component set.
  14. 1 point
    It effectively takes a 3dB increase in power to hear a difference. This is a doubling of power. Unfortunately, you won't really gain much. I gather from your post you are looking for more output. Honestly, as great as that driver is, it's not much a beast in the way of sheer output. It's a sealed driver only, so you're only other option is a larger enclosure at the sacrifice of power handling and cone control, so that just screws everything else.
  15. 1 point
    Absolutely no need. The only way you're going to get enough mechanical movement to damage them in a sealed alignment is you go get to the point where they're basically IB or if you're just a tool with the power and bass knobs. You're good with it off. I promise.
  16. 1 point
    This is a photo I have become known for. People can't believe what I do with their vehicles.
  17. 1 point
    You're welcome. I called 94.7 this morning and warned everyone to stay out of your way.
  18. 1 point
    Dammit, I forgot to fast ring my doors. nice work brother !!! I am digging those tweeter locations !!!
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Factory sub delete since it died on me last summer I believe, even though it was subpar I miss the bass.
  21. 1 point
    Big 2 done so far: Battery Negative to Frame/Chassis Engine Block to Frame/Chassis I covered all unpainted areas with Plasti-Dip to keep from rusting. If I should use something else then let me know, since Plasti-Dip can be removed. I will wait to do the Power and Negative run to Alternator from battery once I upgrade alternators.
  22. 1 point
    Couldnt get pictures to upload from my phone for a while but they seem to be working now. Installed my speaker rings back when I got them, love the simplicity of them. I also installed my Speaker Tweakers I won a few years ago from Second Skin in a raffle. To apply them I had to cut in half due to the bar on my inner door skin, super glue worked great as advised from Second Skin. Doors themselves need to be treated one day but for now they got a little love to help improve the sound.
  23. 1 point
    Bored at work so I decided to install my Fast Rings around my SSA Evil 6.5" mids. The amount of midbass these speakers put out in an untreated door is unreal, I had too much panel vibration going in. These rings definitely helped.
  24. 1 point
    Looks like I could pull off a 2x150+
  25. 1 point
    Night out with the wife at the car wash. Yes, our life is that exciting !!!
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