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It is the default rep system with the new software. I have not really mentioned it to people, and if it is abused I will yank it. I will spend more time on it soon to set it up a little better on the back end.

Got the new burp box for the xxx in. Peaking 1-2hz higher and 0.2db lower, only have one battery compared to two and it isn't competely airtight.

OW1 http://www.hiquphon.eu/america_north.html

for around 1000 watts, I'd just upgrade the front battery. You dont need an extra battery unless you want to listen to music for a while without the car running.

they are just trying to help, for the insane $ you will spend on those kickers you could get MUCH louder and more clear subs, like Fi, SSA, Sundown or SoundStream with much better customer service for much less dough. But to answer your question 3.5 sounds about right not including sub, port or bracing displacement, of course that also depends on your goal for the box. sounds like a daily driver box and tune to me

I don't understand why people have this notion that a sub should not play above a certain frequency, and that it's a good idea to have your midbass play down to 50hz. Let's think about this, do you honestly think a 6.5" midbass is going to be able to match output levels of a 12" subwoofer at 50hz, 70hz, 100hz? Not only that, but having a midbass play down to 50hz creates a lot of unwanted work, you now have to deaden the shit out of your doors because they're going to buzz like crazy. I too used to have midbass that could play to 50hz, hell they could play to 40hz without issue (Peerless SLS 6.5"), but that added a lot of annoyances with door resonances. I did my own little test on this, and it turns out your mind likes to play tricks on you. My sub was playing from 20hz-100hz and I had my midbass crossed @ 50hz then I moved it to 63hz, and then to 80hz, and then again to 100hz. Guess what, the sound didn't change one bit. The over all stereo, sounded exactly the same with midbass playing @ 50hz as it did @ 100hz. You think it's louder because you feel the vibrations up front in your pant legs and your sideviews shake like crazy, yet there is no added benefit to this what so ever. I think what ends up happening is a lot of users enjoy the bloated lowend from 30-50hz that a lot of installs offer, they then assume that the driver is horrible above that point but in reality its that bloated lowned that really kills it. Most subs can play up to 100hz w/o issue, but it's the install and tunning that makes or breaks it. I disagree. You may have found that in your install and that's ok, you can do what you want. But when all that I did was drop the crossover on my sub from 80 hz to about 65-70 hz about two years ago, I noticed a big difference. The midbass was a lot less muddy and you could hear a number of frequencies more clearly. Also, in 98% of the installs by members on this forum, at full tilt there's no way the front stage can keep up with the sub. I have a feeling that's what happened to you. The sub was so much louder that it drowned out the mid up front. Did you try lowering the crossover on the sub at the same time? IMO, 80-100 hz sounds a lot better and more crisp out of a mid than a sub, for the very fact that the mid was designed to play in that range. It has nothing to do with the size of the cone, so nobody misunderstand me. But subwoofers are designed to play subbass, which is generally less than 60 hz IMO.

I'd say there is a good possibility that hooking it up backwards damaged it.

Your ground is shit, ground it right and that hiss will go away.

Looks good. Glad to see someone do a multi-driver install that is not the super high rms models for once in a while (and sealed for that matter).

That's why God made them.

I didn't ignore you . I told you we had not tested the amp at 12-13 volts, but the math would indicate around 1800 at around 12.5- 13 volts. After talking with you I decided to have it AP tested at 12 volts I have now had the amp AP tested at an EXACT 12volts with the following results: 1400@12v@1%thd 1800@12v@5%thd 1900@12v@10%thd I wasn't trying to be evasive answering your question; I just don't like to give numbers based on estimates. dj

Do NOT run it from the rear all the way to the front.

I don't understand why people have this notion that a sub should not play above a certain frequency, and that it's a good idea to have your midbass play down to 50hz. Let's think about this, do you honestly think a 6.5" midbass is going to be able to match output levels of a 12" subwoofer at 50hz, 70hz, 100hz? Not only that, but having a midbass play down to 50hz creates a lot of unwanted work, you now have to deaden the shit out of your doors because they're going to buzz like crazy. I too used to have midbass that could play to 50hz, hell they could play to 40hz without issue (Peerless SLS 6.5"), but that added a lot of annoyances with door resonances. I did my own little test on this, and it turns out your mind likes to play tricks on you. My sub was playing from 20hz-100hz and I had my midbass crossed @ 50hz then I moved it to 63hz, and then to 80hz, and then again to 100hz. Guess what, the sound didn't change one bit. The over all stereo, sounded exactly the same with midbass playing @ 50hz as it did @ 100hz. You think it's louder because you feel the vibrations up front in your pant legs and your sideviews shake like crazy, yet there is no added benefit to this what so ever. I think what ends up happening is a lot of users enjoy the bloated lowend from 30-50hz that a lot of installs offer, they then assume that the driver is horrible above that point but in reality its that bloated lowned that really kills it. Most subs can play up to 100hz w/o issue, but it's the install and tunning that makes or breaks it.

I dont think that the hiss that you hear is something that can be fixed.

Hate to tell you this but its in the amps, there is no getting rid of it. Paying $100 to send it in for repair is just a waste of money cause you will get it back with the same sound.