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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/02/2009 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    if i can come up with a way to get my sub mounted in my friends regular cab s10, he'll probably take it off my hands (actually i have this worked out pretty well ). from there im not sure where to go... any ideas? edit: just remembered... i've considered building a cheap RTA, cost is about 100 bucks. i've read alot about it on diyma, specifically, a post called build a RTA for under 100 bucks (i think that's what its called). i dont think i have the ear for more tuning... im more of a hands on/visual kinda guy
  2. 1 point
    Use a wire coat hanger. Make a small hook at one end and loop the wire on it and tape it in place with electrical tape. Try to make that point as skinny as possible to aide getting it through the hole. Then just Fish it through.
  3. 1 point
    It is the default rep system with the new software. I have not really mentioned it to people, and if it is abused I will yank it. I will spend more time on it soon to set it up a little better on the back end.
  4. 1 point
    I don't understand why people have this notion that a sub should not play above a certain frequency, and that it's a good idea to have your midbass play down to 50hz. Let's think about this, do you honestly think a 6.5" midbass is going to be able to match output levels of a 12" subwoofer at 50hz, 70hz, 100hz? Not only that, but having a midbass play down to 50hz creates a lot of unwanted work, you now have to deaden the shit out of your doors because they're going to buzz like crazy. I too used to have midbass that could play to 50hz, hell they could play to 40hz without issue (Peerless SLS 6.5"), but that added a lot of annoyances with door resonances. I did my own little test on this, and it turns out your mind likes to play tricks on you. My sub was playing from 20hz-100hz and I had my midbass crossed @ 50hz then I moved it to 63hz, and then to 80hz, and then again to 100hz. Guess what, the sound didn't change one bit. The over all stereo, sounded exactly the same with midbass playing @ 50hz as it did @ 100hz. You think it's louder because you feel the vibrations up front in your pant legs and your sideviews shake like crazy, yet there is no added benefit to this what so ever. I think what ends up happening is a lot of users enjoy the bloated lowend from 30-50hz that a lot of installs offer, they then assume that the driver is horrible above that point but in reality its that bloated lowned that really kills it. Most subs can play up to 100hz w/o issue, but it's the install and tunning that makes or breaks it. I disagree. You may have found that in your install and that's ok, you can do what you want. But when all that I did was drop the crossover on my sub from 80 hz to about 65-70 hz about two years ago, I noticed a big difference. The midbass was a lot less muddy and you could hear a number of frequencies more clearly. Also, in 98% of the installs by members on this forum, at full tilt there's no way the front stage can keep up with the sub. I have a feeling that's what happened to you. The sub was so much louder that it drowned out the mid up front. Did you try lowering the crossover on the sub at the same time? IMO, 80-100 hz sounds a lot better and more crisp out of a mid than a sub, for the very fact that the mid was designed to play in that range. It has nothing to do with the size of the cone, so nobody misunderstand me. But subwoofers are designed to play subbass, which is generally less than 60 hz IMO.
  5. -1 points
    I don't understand why people have this notion that a sub should not play above a certain frequency, and that it's a good idea to have your midbass play down to 50hz. Let's think about this, do you honestly think a 6.5" midbass is going to be able to match output levels of a 12" subwoofer at 50hz, 70hz, 100hz? Not only that, but having a midbass play down to 50hz creates a lot of unwanted work, you now have to deaden the shit out of your doors because they're going to buzz like crazy. I too used to have midbass that could play to 50hz, hell they could play to 40hz without issue (Peerless SLS 6.5"), but that added a lot of annoyances with door resonances. I did my own little test on this, and it turns out your mind likes to play tricks on you. My sub was playing from 20hz-100hz and I had my midbass crossed @ 50hz then I moved it to 63hz, and then to 80hz, and then again to 100hz. Guess what, the sound didn't change one bit. The over all stereo, sounded exactly the same with midbass playing @ 50hz as it did @ 100hz. You think it's louder because you feel the vibrations up front in your pant legs and your sideviews shake like crazy, yet there is no added benefit to this what so ever. I think what ends up happening is a lot of users enjoy the bloated lowend from 30-50hz that a lot of installs offer, they then assume that the driver is horrible above that point but in reality its that bloated lowned that really kills it. Most subs can play up to 100hz w/o issue, but it's the install and tunning that makes or breaks it.
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