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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/03/2009 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    i have i box that i need to find out what it's volume is and what it is tuned at. it is made of 3/4" mdf and has a double baffle. outside dimensions are: H 23 1/4" W 20" D 45" inside port dimensions are: H 5" W 18 1/2" D this i am not sure which measurement i need if i measure from the face of the port to the back wall it is 44 1/4" deep if i am to measure the length of the wall which divides the box to form the port it is 38 3/4" deep there is a 45% in the back of the port. thanks in advance for the help. would like to learn how to do these calculations also. perhaps if some one had the extra time i would love to see it drafted up into a drawing also , that would be to cool. my hopes are to identify what i have in order to see what subs would be good in this box. then make another to match it and put both side by side in the jeep. sub up, port back. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s149/porkchop22_2007/box1.jpg
  2. 1 point
    I don't understand why people have this notion that a sub should not play above a certain frequency, and that it's a good idea to have your midbass play down to 50hz. Let's think about this, do you honestly think a 6.5" midbass is going to be able to match output levels of a 12" subwoofer at 50hz, 70hz, 100hz? Not only that, but having a midbass play down to 50hz creates a lot of unwanted work, you now have to deaden the shit out of your doors because they're going to buzz like crazy. I too used to have midbass that could play to 50hz, hell they could play to 40hz without issue (Peerless SLS 6.5"), but that added a lot of annoyances with door resonances. I did my own little test on this, and it turns out your mind likes to play tricks on you. My sub was playing from 20hz-100hz and I had my midbass crossed @ 50hz then I moved it to 63hz, and then to 80hz, and then again to 100hz. Guess what, the sound didn't change one bit. The over all stereo, sounded exactly the same with midbass playing @ 50hz as it did @ 100hz. You think it's louder because you feel the vibrations up front in your pant legs and your sideviews shake like crazy, yet there is no added benefit to this what so ever. I think what ends up happening is a lot of users enjoy the bloated lowend from 30-50hz that a lot of installs offer, they then assume that the driver is horrible above that point but in reality its that bloated lowned that really kills it. Most subs can play up to 100hz w/o issue, but it's the install and tunning that makes or breaks it. I disagree. You may have found that in your install and that's ok, you can do what you want. But when all that I did was drop the crossover on my sub from 80 hz to about 65-70 hz about two years ago, I noticed a big difference. The midbass was a lot less muddy and you could hear a number of frequencies more clearly. Also, in 98% of the installs by members on this forum, at full tilt there's no way the front stage can keep up with the sub. I have a feeling that's what happened to you. The sub was so much louder that it drowned out the mid up front. Did you try lowering the crossover on the sub at the same time? IMO, 80-100 hz sounds a lot better and more crisp out of a mid than a sub, for the very fact that the mid was designed to play in that range. It has nothing to do with the size of the cone, so nobody misunderstand me. But subwoofers are designed to play subbass, which is generally less than 60 hz IMO.
  3. -1 points
    Ive made my own ported boxes in the past but nothing more than a rectangular ported box with f-glass. I dont want to pay a shop to make my box, I want to build it myself. Its a 2000 grand am. Back seat obviouslly removed. I dont really understand how to do the edges and different angles. to take up ALL the space. Or do I forget angles and just do what I can. I was going to do it all in fiberglass but that is probably a stupid idea and a stupid amount of work. The only other problem is how to calculate volume with so many different angles and how to exactly calculate how to measure the bracing and port volume. If anyone has a site to direct me to that deals with Wall setupts that would be great. I want to have pride in this job knowing I did it (Not to mention the price savings!) Any help appreciated!
  4. -1 points
    First off hooking the power and ground up backwards is stupid! even though I still dont see how that would cause a noise problem, it should have blown the power supply. I also want to state that I am not bashing the product. I think that it a very durable and well built product, It is obviously a solid amp if this ding dong can't blown it up. It was just not made to be used in competion SQ cars. Which is not what it is being used for in this case anyway.
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