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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/09/2010 in all areas

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    That's fantastic!! I wish I was close enough to hear it as well. Out of idle curiosity, what settings have you ended up with thus far? (crossover points, slopes, and phasing?) I think it's particularly good for those who may not fully understand what correct phasing and tuning can accomplish to hear it from someone who's recently spent some time working heavily on tuning. Any chance you could give some details some time on the testing and the differences you heard when things started to come together?? Of course results will vary for all, but you could give some good insight as to why it's worth the trouble, I think. When I first installed the raw drivers, I played with each set individually. I listened with them at full range got famillair with what they where capable of. Then I trimed the xover points to keep what I wanted as a rough setting. At first nothing sounded that good. I could hear some sounds so clear and other frequencys where non exsistent, The Comb Filtering effect. This is where phasing comes in, once I switched the drivers side full range out of phase almost all anomaly's disappeared!!!!! Next was the Aura midbasses, They too were barking at each other and having some cancellation. Not suprizing concidering they are air pistons and pointed directly at each other. I switched the drivers side midbass out of phase and BAM, I was getting assalted with the kick drum!!! Lastly the monster BTL sub in the trunk. At first the sub was barking from behind me, even crossed @50hz. I switched the phasing and OMG I can't believe this beast can blend. Sounds like its in my LAP!!!!! The tricky thing about blending a sub is that when they are out of phase, they sound louder SO MOST novice will think thats what sounds best BUT it will NEVER blend. My advice for testing phasing is listen for the driver you can pick out the easiest, the one that sounds out of place. Sometimes the out of phase driver will sound like its barking over everything else. The other thing to listen for is canallation, So if one driver seems like its not making any noise then you may be getting canallation. There is ALOT of different phase combos, but I don't think its necessary to run through them all, just change as needed. Back to the x-over points. Well at first I asked myself what I concidered sub bass and midbass. I concider sub bass as 50hz and down and mid bass as 50hz thru 400hz. So thats where I started. I then did sweeps of x-over points and slopes to see what occured. I tryed shallow slopes with a ton of underlap, I tryed steep slopes with overlap just to hear the different effects it had on the sound stage. After all that I ended up with: sub: ssf @30hz / LPF @50hz 12db slope Midbass: HPF @50hz 12db slope / LPF @400hz 12db slope Full rangers: HPF @500hz 12db slope I have no underlap @ the sub/mid point which really helps put the sub in my lap. I did a little underlap inbetween the mid and the full range, this keeps from having the same frequencys coming from seperate sources and confusing the sound stage. I can get the full rangers to play lower but then the mid bass gets anemic, And like wise I can get the mids to play higher but then it brings the sound stage down. Next the fun part, Gain matching. I had been listening up to this point with everything set low. Now that I had the signals trimmed up I cranked up the Fostexs and these beautys REALLY came to life!!!!! Then I cranked up the mids until they were over bearing and then backed them off a little until the just started to become an extension of the full rangers. I have sub level control on the HU so I have the sub gain pretty high and just add as needed with the HU. Some days I like to get assalted with Sub bass and other days I like it mellow. I will say that with the correct phasing on the sub and crossing @50 that no matter the level, The sub still blends and sounds AMAZING!!! Then I did some "time alignment" . the T/A is straight forward, measure lenghts, do a little math, set everything and then listen with my eyes closed as I sweep the setting back and forth alittle until satisfied. Lastly I tuned a little with the EQ. I abide by the rule of "if you want something to sound better, take away. If you want something to sound different then add". first I had to boost at 40hz cause my box is so pecky @32hz. Then I Took away a little at 6.3khz to get rid of some bite. Other than that everything is flat. I DO NOT have any "Media expanders" on except for the satillite radio, which needs it. Let me know if you Got any questions. I am not the greatest with words SO I may of left something out.
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    A little update. Things have slowed way down, so I wanna pick it up again. Threw the two 10"s in a 4th that I built for my gf in for something temp. Started to try to round out all of the seem and corner areas. But when I figured out that it would a shitton of putty I was like F that lol. And what it looks like now with the temp setup in.
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    I really don't know how they arrived at that figure. There are multiple ways to manipulate sensitivity. The website lists a sensitivity of 96.4db, but the T/S I found were from a CA&E article that listed rated sensitivity at 98.2db, which would be a 9db difference. It could be a difference in power (5x more power for a 7db increase, 8x the power for a 9db increase). It could be a difference in "measurement style", meaning it might be an "in car" measurement. Or, decreasing the distance of the measurement by half (.5m instead of 1m) would result in a 6db increase in output, so they may have varied the measurement distance by some amount. If they wired the driver to 4ohm and drove it with 2.83V, that would be a 3db increase. Halving the distance a 6db increase. Combine the two and you have a 9db increase. Or just wiring the driver to 1ohm and giving it 2.83V would also be a 9db increase.
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    Sigh........ This is a case of not being able to take the specifications at face value....Massive is simply playing a numbers game. As I outlined in the Sensitivity article that I linked to earlier (which apparently went unread ), sensitivity "ratings" are not created equal. But if we have the T/S parameters, we can level the playing field with one simple formula I couldn't get the manual on Massive's website to work (the T/S parameters are all blank and Adobe Reader gives me a font error), but from what I could find the relevant T/S for the DMX 12, which is rated 96.4db sensitivity on Massive's website, are; Fs - 31.1hz, Vas - 61.46L, Qes - .33 If we plug those numbers into the formula from the aforementioned unread article, we would find; SPL = 112+10*LOG(9.64*10^(-10)*31.1^3*61.46/0.33) = 89.3db The ACTUAL 1w/1m sensitivity isn't quite as high as advertised there with the "manufacturer rated" sensitivity, eh? I have no doubt you would find an equivalent difference between the actual 1w/1m sensitivity and the "manufacturer rated" sensitivity of the DMX 15 aswell. If anyone can find the T/S parameters, we could "set the record straight" so to speak.
  6. 1 point
    Got a lil more done today. Couldn't get a good pic of the whole thing lol. Gonna start on the port and baffles later this weekend or next week.
  7. 1 point
    My gf wanted to do something, so I mixed her up some putty. That's all for now, gonna try to work a lil more on it tomorrow.
  8. 1 point
    Why don't you just get some 18s or whatever that will fit? And if you're doing all this, why not just wall it? But most likely in a non-wall situation, either subs and port up, subs up port back, or subs/port back will be best. Anything forward in an SUV is basically never better unless it's walled.
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    Pretty close to the roof. Look at all that damn sawdust lol.
  10. 1 point
    Fitting the top. Had to do it in two pieces because one wouldn't fit between the A-pillars to get it in haha. There will be layers of 2x4's in the middle where the port will be. Gonna start organizing there better pretty soon.
  11. 1 point
    this is the 12" that's in that box. actual pics tmm. did this earlier
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    so the tens i got were weak, but i took pictures of it all.. i'm already upgraded to one rockford 12" P2 in this same box. i just made a new face plate like you see for the tens... it actually sounds good and hits. i'll have pics of that tomorrow. this is an old an box a single kicker 10" L5 went and bought this
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    Didn't get too much done today, too much running around. But a lil was done. Top in back. Starting on the front. Quartered
  14. 1 point
    here's the problem. 1st layer 2nd 3rd.. can't really see but there are holes 4th
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    nevermind.. started today.
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    took some pictures the other evening after i cleaned her up..
  17. 1 point
    first cut couple more.. the baffle pieces.. which are glued and setting overnight
  18. 1 point
    started to build a new box today.. about the same size (4.0^3) but the tuning is lower and will be around 32 hz. also it's made out of 3/4" MDF unlike my current one that is 1".. but the new one has a double baffle unlike the other. i made pretty good progess but once the sun went down i kept making stupid little mistakes so i'm done until tmm. hoping to have it done by late tmm afternoon but we will see.
  19. 1 point
    oh and i finally switched my speaker wire to 8 gauge and found a MUCH better ground for my battery. yes it's sanded so the results are good: it definately got louder, by a very good amount in my opinion. and my voltage drop isn't as bad with the new ground and it seems like it goes back up faster too.
  20. 1 point
    more.. more.. a little more.. some more.. and a little more..
  21. 1 point
    so yesterday on easter i finally got to the trunk. i ripped out all of the remaining carpet etc along the sides. and i took out the rug on the trunk floor and the wood piece over the spare tire well. the second skin i had left was enough to get me what you see in the pictures.. so i will be buying some more soon. here's some pics gutted
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