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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/04/2010 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    So, I've had the sub for a little while now, and thought I'd post some pics, scores, and some thoughts. In the enclosure, built by thegreatestpenn, 3.0 net tuned to 30 hertz: The first time on the meter, at the headrest with the A/C on blast: The first time on the TL, I didn't get a pic of my dash score, but it was a 138.4. The second time, with the air off: On music (Flo Rida's Sugar): Trunk class results at the 1st show I went to: Now for thoughts/impressions/comments. First things first, it is really, REALLY, REALLLLLLLY efficient. I'm only giving it about 500-600 watts, judging by my voltage drops. To be doing that kind of score off such little power makes me happy Second, the guy who did the 144.1 did so with a single Fi BTL 15, SAZ-3000D, 2 Group 31 Deka's, 1/0, etc. I did mine with a bone stock electrical and the stupid 5/9 gauge kit from Wal-Mart. I think that I did fairly well for what I've got in the car. Third, it doesn't sound bad at all. It does have moments where it's a little sloppy, but I think that's more due to the enclosure than anything. But otherwise, I'm completely happy with my DR. For those who don't know: 2000 Dodge Neon Stock Electrical Sony GT330 head Polk MOMO tweeters Adire Koda midbasses Rockford Fosgate BD500.1 IA Death Row 15 dual 1 3.0 ported tuned to 30 hertz, built by thegreatestpenn Scoshe wiring Comments/questions always welcomed. Kef
  2. 1 point
    Hey Fucktard, Either take a picture so you can get an straight answer or cut another piece. Freaking out over a $30 sheet of MDF is ridiculous. BTW Lowes and Home Depot will cut it for free!!!!!!!!!!
  3. 1 point
    For all the members here that suggested contacting soundstream(you notice I did not capitalize) I sent them a link to this build here on SSA, also I sent a picture of the completed exterior of the car and a pic of the completed hatch area filled with multiple $'s of their products. Here is the responce I received from them: "Awesome car! Tell ya what... Take some more high resolututon phots fo the car and we will put it on our website. Also include a list of sponsors and modifications to show off all the work you guys did for the project..." Grizz Archer Epsilon Electronics Speaker Engineer Product & Marketing Director Team Manager I have received more from Mark & Aaron here at SSA forum and I havn't spent a dime other than my supporter contribution. Now, did I really think they would to do anything. I do feel that I might have gotten a better responce, I didn't even get a thank you for using their products. Hell, why do we need our car on their website???? It's allready on 42 pages of the best Audio website on the net. Mark & Aaron, Thanks for all the support given towards my son, myself, this project and all the members here on SSA forum!
  4. 1 point
    I'll let you know after they arrive on Friday. Cool man! Hoping to talk him out of Focals! Just got done installing the Bravox CS60K's and I am thoroughly impressed. Crisp clear highs, thumping midbass, screaming mids. I have never heard a set of components in this price point that that play this loud and .clean. I would highly recommend. Thanks SSA for offering this sick pricing on these speakers. I was just thinking the same, Cory and I put a set of CS50K's in his civic just last night. Very nice. Thanks for your business! The real endorsement for these speakers can probably come from my wife. Yesterday she took the car to go drive to the race for the cure and came home and told me that the stereo sounds awesome! My wife does not have much of an ear for this stuff, and she even noticed the improvement over the JLs that I had in the car.
  5. 1 point
    Thanks. This box is 18 ft net @ 36hz. After putting it in I'm not happy with it- it's too close to the rear gate and too big for the power I'm using. I'm reading .5 ohm nominal- so figure 10,000+ watts @ 2 ohms. Even if my rise is 2 ohms they aren't liking it. It gets really low, but not as loud as my old box. Here's a quick vid and some pics, but I wont be keeping it this way long. Also I think the bolts look ugly with that thick padding. I'm going to rethink and redo that one.
  6. 1 point
    Icons do sound like a great choice for you. If you havn't seen it here is a link to the 2010 ICONS Free shipping for October. Good Luck with your decision.
  7. 1 point
    What happen to ur sub from undergroundrobot? You can't go wrong with the icon. It gets loud and sounds good with deep bass all around solid sub/
  8. 1 point
    Have a read.. Its a sticky.
  9. 1 point
    I second third, etc. I would ditch the rears and look into the Bravox group buy, you can get great prices on some speakers. I would also suggest the boss amp, it's Zed built and high quality, and if you're looking for more X-over abilities i would also suggest a Sax 125.2. In all honesty you do not need a rear fill, In my old lumina i had one set of component speakers upfront and that was IT everyone in my car could hear my mids and highs even while in the rear.
  10. 1 point
    You are not going to notice the 15 watt power difference between the sundown and the boss. The only thing you would have to decide is if you would need the extra crossover functions of the sundown.
  11. 1 point
    Time for an update! Finally got the pods on the doors. I know the vinyl is not the greatest and I am 100% sure I will do them again one day, but no time soon. I got a box to build. Also, I tried to get too creative and wrapped the door pulls and power window covers in vinyl. Not a good idea. I will take my set from the other doors and have someone do them professionally with a stitch on the inside. I went with a darker brown (it looks much darker in the pics) because I am going to add some black vinyl to the doors above where the door locks are above the pods and also where the circular part of the door is around the pods. Reason i am going with this, is I have my eye on some black and tan seat covers and when I can see one in person I am going to get them. If I dont like them, I will have the seats redone black and tan professionally. WAY out of my skill set there. I will paint the rest of the interior as needed to match the black and tan theme here, but all that is for another day! Here are some pics of the front doors. This was easy as I did this on my last build. lol Quick pic of the Clarion. Poor thing is so ugly, but damn it's a great HU for the money. Used what I had left from my last install to deaden and seal the rear doors. I ordered some more ensolite and will put that over the entire door when it gets here. I only had a little bit left but did use that for now. Big Ass Hole here Didnt have a good way to bolt the pod to the door, so had to improvise. Cut some steel and bolted it to the door with lock nuts. Sealed it up the best I could for now. The front pods are bolted directly to the door and vent through the factory speaker opening. I used 6 bolts per side, they aint going no where. Got to dig my old kick panel covers out the attic as I dont need the Q forms anymore. Anyone with a Yukon/Tahoe need some, hit me up. On to the rear My first impression of this set up --------- I Love It !!!!! The super tweeters and B&C mids are DAMN loud and clear as hell. I have lots of tuning to do, but this is exactly what I hoped it would be and will make a great ground pounder set up. Crisp, clear vocals and highs and loud and punchy mid bass. I am VERY surprised and the midbass I get with these. Way more then I was expecting. Very happy about that. I did a 126.34 drive by with the Dynaudio and current subs, cant wait to see what this one will do when I get the other subs and amp in here. lol Opinions and suggestions are always welcome.
  12. 1 point
    thought i would post this here instead of the vids section
  13. 1 point
    Nice post Duran. The BTL and Xcon look similar, but as explained above they are different. For example, the Xcon has a shorting ring to lower inductance ( a feature more set for the SQ or daily driver crowd) and the BTL does not. The reason is the BTL is aiming to keep as much motor force as possible for big power installs. Both are excellent drivers, but they are built for different applications. The top plates are different, the height of the magnets, along with their inner and outer diameter is different. So from a far, they make look similar, but next to each other, the difference is noticeable. Both are at the top of the game at their respective market segments, but are not meant for the same application.
  14. 1 point
    The motors themselves are actually very different, there are cosmetic similarities but that's as far as it goes. XCON's have a shorting ring inside the motor to lower inductance so the woofer can play lower than without, the large bumped top plate is mostly so the coil has enough travel, allowing the XCON 31 mm of xmax one way. The BTL however while looks similar is totally different on the inside, if it is fully loaded there is no pole vent, and axial cooling vents drilled into the pole piece and top plate, along with a small gap to increase air velocity in order to cool the coil, the BTL will take serious power before failure, it is actually impossible for the coil to hit the top plate, making "bottoming out" impossible. The Spiders will rip and the tinsel leads will pop before the coil hits the top plate.
  15. 1 point
    It really depends on what you're looking for. It sounds like you want an actual audio processor for 3-way active (high, mid, sub), but most of the processors you're looking at don't really offer the features you want or will need. The Cleansweep doesn't do anything other than equalize the input signal. It does it's job well, flattening out the response of the incoming factory signal to undo any equalizing the factory system may have built in, but if you want to actually adjust the response of the system then it's not a good option as it doesn't offer any other capabilities to equalize the actual response of the system. It also doesn't offer the crossover features you need. The Re-Q(5) is even more limited than the Cleansweep, it doesn't equalize the input signal over the entire bandwidth, it just restores bass that may be attenuated by the factory system. So it, in essence, doesn't do anything other than increase bass output. It's basically the OEM-integration equivalent of an Epicenter. It also doesn't offer the crossover features you need. I don't know what product you were looking at from Audiocontrol, so I can't comment there. The RF 360.2 is the best of those you've mentioned, offering user-adjustable equalization and crossover capabilities. But.... ....if you could find another $200 in your budget (or look at previously owned products) I think the JBL MS-8 will do everything you are asking for and then some. It will condition the incoming factory signal to undo any factory processing, allows complete active crossover processing (8-channel output), then it also automatically tunes the audio system via binaural microphones, and post-processing still offers a user-adjustable 31 band EQ. It's $800 on Amazon, but used units have been going for under $600. The unit isn't dummy-proof. The quality of your installation and pre-tuning setup is going to determine the quality of the results. Another option is to find a used H701. It won't condition the incoming audio signal from the factory system, but it does offer all of the other tuning features you need for a quality active setup (crossover, EQ, time alignment, etc).
  16. 1 point
    Picked up my enclosure today! Met up with Andrew at a local spot to pick it up. The box is just as nice in person. It's an awesome box and fits great in my trunk (there's still a lot of room!). Thanks again Argent Audio and Andrew!
  17. 1 point
    I'm almost ready to install, I just ran out of adhesive to finish the vinyl. If I have time I'll have installed pics/vids tomorrow.
  18. 1 point
    Lots of pics missing from this, but subs should be in a new box tomorrow. If all goes well vids tomorrow. I have a super busy schedule but the only things left to do are sand the inside of the box, add a last coat of paint, and vinyl. Then slap it in and wire it up. Finished 45s in all the corners Started the bracing Cupping my nuts before chopping my rod down some. Test fit a sub, there's a little play but it will be taken up by the vinyl. The stickers started falling off the first few days I had the subs, so I'll probably just remove the stickers entirely. a few coats of poly to smooth things out. It'll be sanded smooth and painted tomorrow.
  19. 1 point
    Time for a rebuild. I wanted a bit more low end, the current box plays down to 30hz well, but some of the c&s music I like is lower than that. I'm going from 15ft net to 18ft net, still at 36Hz but port location should drop the tuning some. Should be good until I get more power or subs. Using birch this time, just under 4 sheets total Mobile works station lol 45's sides routed an adge to tuck the vinyl Assembly This is the lip for the removable port And the port 3/4 round over Painted white and coated to be smooth put in some 45s and painted white I drilled and tested the 5/16 bolts to hold the port in 1.25" bracing just a bit more work and it will be done, I have the vinyl and padding just need to finish the wood work and messy parts
  20. -1 points
    i cant believe a 10w7 is louder than me on the outside of the car, but mines alot louder on the inside
  21. -1 points
    i have a freaken fi bl 12 fully loaded with a sundown sae 1200d. custom built box 0 guage wire.. etc.. its loud as hell on the inside but the outside, not all that. my friend has a 10w7 only 750watts rms and it is alot louder on the outside why? is it because of the cars
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