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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/2011 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Yes, that will work and it's correct.
  2. 1 point
    are they single 4 or dual 4 for dual 4 they way you stated will work
  3. 1 point
    thanks a lot man! i really appreciate it. No problem at all. Hope you win.
  4. 1 point
    Voted. Little bit of time is worth helpin someone out on the forum.
  5. 1 point
    You can contact Bromo, he's a member here. He's a very good box designer.
  6. 1 point
    Need the dimensions (space you have), any electrical upgrades, goals, experience, etc.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Agreed. When I and many others unload equipment, we have a variety of items for sale at once. It'd drive me insane having to post, update and track 4 different threads in 4 different subforms because I have a variety of things for sale at once. I haven't read past the 1st page, so I'm not sure if this has already been settled or not.
  9. 1 point
    Who said anything about 90dB? Why don't you understand that midbass is the challenge and adding sub bass is ultra easy in comparison. No it doesn't. Again you have to address not only the frequency but the damping as well. Adding thickness surely has benefit as you note I even recommended it earlier, but it isn't the end all solution. Sort of like using damper as a blocker. The golden ratio doesn't guarantee squat and is another rule of thumb that is generically not so useful. You also have to do a lot more than not make your box a cube. Symmetry is your enemy. The vehicles "effect" is independent of the box. The only thing you aren't confused by in this post is the long wavelength comment, but inconveniently for you that counteracts your whole accurate reproduction post from before.
  10. 1 point
    Or space issues as you can use smaller 16v batteries as the current draw will be much lower... It's something that takes a lot of planning.. And some know how. By the time you factor in the increase in power as a result of bumping the voltage up to 16V, current draw would probably equal or exceed that of the same amplifier running at 13.8V-14.4V. Even excluding an increase in power, if we leave power constant the difference in current draw between 14.4V and 16V is going to be ~10%. And the increase in power would be 100% inaudible. Not worth the time or expense to try to do anything like this for a daily driver system. You're better off focusing on maintaining a proper "normal" voltage than trying to increase the voltage up to 16V+. For competition it can make sense. For daily driver systems, it's complete waste.
  11. 1 point
    The only way I would run 16v is if I was VERY serious about competition in the higher SPL classes. Then it's pretty much a necessity because you will get your ass spanked on a 12v system. On a daily system that maybe goes to some shows, not even worth doing it IMO.
  12. 1 point
    Because then you deal with the complications of internal bracing? Yes, there are adverse affects. I NEVER use internal bracing. Why? I'm sure bracing in an acoustic suspension enclosure, a 4th order, or a 4th order bandpass wouldn't hurt. Wherever there is air flow, it causes problems. Perfect example (and not the only case), in my S10 I did no internal bracing and made the box 5.25" thick except for the baffle which was 6" thick. If you put ANYTHING in that box, score dropped. I left a drill in the box once and lost over 1 dB. In other smaller box applications, I've heard turbulence from bracing as well. Depending how your brace is, I could see it causing a problem with phase or standing waves. The only bracing I'd deem usable is thick threaded rod. Don't assume everyone is concerned about a "score". Acoustic reproduction might just hit the list as important... While they may not be concerned with a specific number, if they want "loud", that's a "score". Loud is loud, whether it be an ear or a meter. The same way you make a daily system loud, you make it loud for a meter. Your acoustic reproduction won't be accurate if you have turbulence and audible noise from it. Standing waves will give dips or spikes in response, a direct relationship to accurate reproduction. The OP asked about good enclosures not loud ones. There are a ton of people that don't care about loud at all, reference levels perhaps, but loud has connotations that are all negative IMO. If you said linear, flat, capability to blend or something sure, but loud not so much. As for your acoustic reproduction comments, true if you have audible noises it will take away from it but flexing panels will cause way worse distortion than any bracing techniques. Bracing will also help to stop standing waves and alter the inner shape of the box to a less symmetric rectangle which is also of benefit but of course we are discussing subs here which play sounds with LONG wavelengths. A solid built enclosure IS a good one. "Loud" is what you make it. Why do SQ guys have 600 watt front stages, then don't go over 90 dB? "Overhead" isn't THAT much. Having an extra thick box solves the flexing problem and won't induce any other noises. Will bracing help stopping standing waves? Sure, but so will changing the box shape. Don't make your box a cube, problem solved. There is such a thing called a "golden ratio", which should pretty well guarantee no standing waves. Besides, even if you had as standing wave of some variety, you're assuming response is linear in a lab or simulation. What about the vehicle's effect? You shouldn't have a problem with standing waves with long wavelengths anyway, unless your box is huge.
  13. -1 points
    I read on one of the forums the settings are complicated. is this true? its a nice amp for sure, especially for the $9000 off the normal retail price. but not a fan of kicker. i woulda threw a couple hundred with that mone and got an audioque 20k
  14. -1 points