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2009 Jeep Liberty Odyssey Battery up front odyessey in back Clarion CX501 Cd player with sirius sat radio See some new parts for a rebuild in last post.

I hope this gets worked out soon because I hate to see things like this on my site.

This really comes down to your definition of "deadener" and "works". The license plate test doesn't prove your point. Anything that's softer than the plate and the back of the mounting surface will solve that problem - 10 cents worth of CCF or even some chewed gum would be more effective and easier. Decoupling the surfaces is the key here, not vibration damping. Gaining SPL after applying the material is almost certainly the result of sealing air leaks. Again, many things will accomplish the same thing. That's really not "deadening" by any definition. It's possible that you got some panel stiffening in the process. That's an advantage asphalt has, since it isn't a vibration damper, you don't get the offsetting conversion of vibration to heat. You also don't get a reliably durable product that can be counted on to last for several years and may result in a serious mess. If you don't care about that and are happy to address the issues indirectly and inefficiently, I guess it could make sense. None of that supports the idea that it works as a deadener.

And please no one else ever buy this.

Ha, do you work for them or something? Either brainwashed or uneducated. It deadens some sure, but only while it is stuck on and what it does do it is not very effective at doing. Your opinion is wrong and not based on any scientific fact or understanding. Just because you think it works does not make it work. Per dollar it is not a good buy and therefore a waste of money.

Im thinking there is a slight language barrier here.

Almost done with my latest box build. Still have a couple trim pieces to wrap in vinyl but all is well. Turned out better than expected. Too bad I don't have a camera And I have to start working on a copy of this:

Here ya go. This is what you get to deal with once you realize asphalt is crap. this is ( FatMat. Our 50 mil nominal rubberized compound) not quite rubber like stated. This is what i had to deal with a year after installing fatmat when the smell never went away and it didnt work worth a shit. Then i called Don at SDS. Not trying to thread jack but i hate to someone go through what i did. Now you know better!

Here's a little more. I'll leave it to others to debate whether or not MFM's Peel & Seal is the product being relabeled as "sound deadener" by some vendors, but since it is the topic of this thread, here's what MFM says: It's not too hard to see how you'd get from the legitimate product description to the brilliantly deceptive.

From Fatmat: An important consideration in the sound dampening of automobiles, boats, homes, computers and buildings is of course selecting the correct products that will be most effective in your application. Here you find the product that started it all for us, FatMat. Our 50 mil nominal rubberized compound is covered with a shiny protective aluminum top as well as a waxed paper release bottom it's exactly what your looking for in order to stop those nasty rattles, eliminate road and outside noise, insulate your vehicle and dramatically improve the sound of your car audio stereo system. So it's not asphalt, just saying. Rubberized compound compound is a euphemism used to mislead: Coated or treated with rubber Rubber compounds are added to all products like these to stabilize the asphalt. These compounds break down quite quickly which is one of the most common reasons for failure. If you don't have the balls to admit that you're selling asphalt, you misdirect. You can sprinkle sugar on feces and say it contains sugar - which they did, but you can't say it doesn't contain shit - which you did.

got it slapppin today... had to pull the box out twice. <<<<rookie. but it is bumpin now... and im very very happy =) the couple songs i played shook the entire truck. im in love... i know the boot looks like shit, i had a helluva time today and got impatient, need to paint the brace still, and get some bigger gauge speaker wire with terminals. gonna make an amp rack and stuff too. i need a few days break though, this project kicked my ass. Got a teaser vid too.

That's a serious brace, I assume this is to secure the enclosure to the back of the cab? Great work on the box for being in the elements of the bed! yeah will have all thread going to the front of the bed to keep the box sucked up tight against it... Painted in the dark, truck is sitting in the shop with the heater on to let the glue set over night.

Another day of work done... Im gonna work on this project every day till its done. i dont fuck around. =) HOPEFULLY gonna be doing the big cut and final paint tomorrow, let the boot seal cure over night and be bangin on friday. probably not though. lol less than a week for sure. Got this sealant from the boat store. Should work well. Resined Primered Sealed Then more sanding on the front edge and added my terminals...

eh not a big deal i just cut away the top and bottom board a little. but i was thinking the overall diameter would be just a little under 12.5 but its like EXACTLY 12.5 and thats how much room i had... i new it would be close. but i got it handled, in the middle of glassing right now at the shop came home for a smoke break real quick and to post some pictures i took while i was sanding... and a better picture of the sub.

Got the new HERTZ components in. Just drilled my own Damn holes. They sound MUCH better than the Bravox comps. And they r on half the power right now. I will be selling the crossovers if anyone is interested. PICS!!!!

no and then! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7luMp6lb9M

This was pretty funny,this is a perfect example of people on forums acting like they know something but really don't. So many people with their foot in their mouths,haha.

Ha, do you work for them or something? Either brainwashed or uneducated. It deadens some sure, but only while it is stuck on and what it does do it is not very effective at doing. Your opinion is wrong and not based on any scientific fact or understanding. Just because you think it works does not make it work. Per dollar it is not a good buy and therefore a waste of money.No i don't work for them man. I have used it and had higher numbers + deadening. I have looked at all the different deadeners and the normal FatMat is asphalt but the Rattle Trap is different. I honestly have used Peel and Seal, it all fell off of my doors. Used Fatmat Rattle Trap and nothing fell off. But everyone here is trying to say that Fatmat doesn't work but in reality is cheaper and it works just fine. Your opinion is wrong and not based on any scientific fact. The only thing i have read is that people have talked to other company's and been to the factory and they wouldn't buy it. It works just as good.What part of rubberized compound is NOT butyl don't you understand? Well someone said it's just a play with their words but still. How exactly do you know it's not? This really comes down to your definition of "deadener" and "works". The license plate test doesn't prove your point. Anything that's softer than the plate and the back of the mounting surface will solve that problem - 10 cents worth of CCF or even some chewed gum would be more effective and easier. Decoupling the surfaces is the key here, not vibration damping.Gaining SPL after applying the material is almost certainly the result of sealing air leaks. Again, many things will accomplish the same thing. That's really not "deadening" by any definition. It's possible that you got some panel stiffening in the process. That's an advantage asphalt has, since it isn't a vibration damper, you don't get the offsetting conversion of vibration to heat. You also don't get a reliably durable product that can be counted on to last for several years and may result in a serious mess. If you don't care about that and are happy to address the issues indirectly and inefficiently, I guess it could make sense. None of that supports the idea that it works as a deadener. Listen, to be honest. I am totally willing to be humble and agree with what your saying, both of you. The only problem i have is that all i am being told is that it does this, it doesn't do this. Just a he said vs he said. If you could get me some actual information and backed up science behind this, i will promptly apologize and then buy something else for myself! I am not trying to be ignorant, it would just be nice to have some facts. You know what i mean?

In any other business transaction (1800woofers.com, etc etc) I would normally refund a customer first - In this situation the amp worked, tested working, and even have a PM from you saying it worked. Due to the area of uncertainty - I cannot simply just issue a refund incase you did in fact blow it, and it wasn't the shipping companies, fault - etc. On a side note - I just got the amp back from UPS, and will be in touch with the lady who gave me her numbers in the claims dept. tomorrow - This should all be resolved tomorrow and at rest. I will keep you updated