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Why do you think this? because i know..... there were only 4 of these built..period... I'm going to stir the pot here. . . You claim so many people are misinformed and don't know what they are typing about, yet you yourself stick your own foot in your mouth by claiming there were "only 4 of these built..period.." You then go on to state that,"I did at one point have 7 of these.." So which one is it?

I was first introduced to SSA a long time ago. I was initially on the SI forums, stereo integrity, and I purchased a pair of Mag v4 from Nick at the time and Jacob gave me a hell of a good deal on a pair of SAE1000 which I strapped together to power the 2-SI mag v4 subs! I was so impressed with Jacob and what not I proceeded to join the sundown forums which in turn was SSA! and now I find myself sitting on my pc lifeless and... JK lol naw I just got out of school and I am currently looking for a full time job in my field of Instrumentation Control Engineer, which could allow me to work in a distillery or chemical plant, or power plant and then some! I also rep SSA all the time with my hat, dicky, and wool cap! lol and I always tell people to join up and ask question and or just read about it!!

My $.02 Your door install is lacking, switching speakers won't help this. A new install may remedy the problem but I wouldn't bother swapping out the speakers until you can at least determine what was holding them back. I feel like you're undertaking a very large and potentially disappointing project when a small amount of work may prove more fruitful. About going 4-way active with the pioneer, yes I believe the way you have it listed will work but I'm not familiar with the 1100.4; the 1000c4's LPF only goes up to 250hz not the 300hz you'd need (splitting hairs but it could prove to be a problem). If you have room in your dash for a 4" speaker I'd heavily consider putting a full range in and using that to cover the majority of your spectrum, properly installed you should be able to cover everything from <1khz to 20khz without issue. Two full range examples that I have zero experience with: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-847 http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-2-fullrange/vifa-ne85w-2.5-fullrange-driver-4-ohm/

This is why I love distro blocks, I've never felt comfortable using the "reducers", I feel as though they don't get adequate contact. Just use a distro and accomplish the same thing with benefits(though more $$).

Tell him you are keeping it since you know he has no use for it and will sell it for drug money. You do not want to support his habit and that's what you would be doing if you gave him the gear. Simple as that. If he doesn't like it, tough shit.

So from a 1 month old recone to now a few months? What is the real story then cause there seems to be quite a bit missing. I was told a month. And the pictures shown matched. If I am mistaken, then I'm sorry.

WOW if it comes to that for me shit will hit the fan and god only knows what else.

Satin Black. Please!!!! All black is the sexiest thing ever.

haha very nice... exactly what i wanted to see

Just watched this in the vids section, I was wondering what was doing the damage.

Why do you have a component set running at 120 lpf? How do you know this? What processor do you have? I presumed he just typed LPF instead of HPF. For true midbass frequencies, having the speakers located in front of you doesn't really matter. But you would still want them as wide as possible.....under or directly behind the seats are both generally poor options.I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get performance under 120hz with them unless you are simply pushing them significantly past their output limitations. Are you playing them at an excessively loud level when they appear to start bottoming out? Completely disagree Impious. Midbass freqs should definitely be played by front stage drivers. Your comment on having midbass drivers as wide as possible is contradictory to your previous statement Midbass drivers are best mounted in the doors with proper deadening. Disagree if you wish, but you would be wrong. And the statements are not the least bit contradictory. If you think they are, then you are not reading them properly. We localize midbass in the lateral plane only (i.e. left to right). We don't localize it on a vertical plane (high and low), and we don't localize it "front to back". Midbass is localized by way of what's known as Interaural Time Difference (ITD). That is, the brain localizes midbass laterally due a difference in the time arrival of the sound wave between the left ear and right ear. ITD dominates our localization ques in the frequency bandwidth where the wavelengths of the soundwave are longer than the distance between our two ears. Our ears have no hearing mechanism by which to differentiate "front" from "rear" in the midbass frequencies. The wavelengths are too large compared to our hearing mechanisms to locate them vertically or "front to back". Generally the more ITD you can generate, the wider the potential imaging. From this very basic knowledge, a couple things can be extracted. First, any midbass location that results in identical ITD will be indistinguishable to the ear....above you, below you, in front of you, behind you, it doesn't matter......as long as the ITD stays the same, your ears and your brain won't know the difference. Second thing we should notice is that the WORST location for a midbass is at a location that results in an ITD of or close to zero; that would be DIRECTLY in front of you, DIRECTLY behind you, or directly above or below you. Since "imaging" in the lateral plane is a function of ITD, the "best" midbass location is a location that results in optimal ITD. Which is why I previously stated that you want the speakers located as wide as possible, to allow for proper ITD. So yes, you can mount midbass drivers behind you....your brain doesn't know the difference. Mount the drivers as wide as possible to maximize ITD. Which means, for example, if the ITD from some given location on the front doors and some given location on the rear doors are identical, you could mount the speakers in either location and you wouldn't be able to tell a difference. Now, a few caveats to this: First, hearing rattling/buzzing/etc as a result of the midbass speakers exciting panel resonances (door panels, etc) or other noises will ruin the illusion. Second, the speakers must only be operated within the bandwidth where ITD is the mode of localization. If you operate the driver outside of this bandwidth (this includes driver distortion, etc), then other factors will begin to contribute to our localization of the sound. Proper time alignment of the midbass drivers will need to be maintained with the other drivers in the system as well as between the midbass drivers themselves. Lastly (I think), this does not take into consideration the effects of other factors such as reflections, frequency response anomalies, etc as those will be a case-by-case basis. All that said....claiming midbass in the front doors is the "best" location is extremely generalized and I wouldn't necessarily agree.

I also wouldn't necessarily recommend an MS8 for a 1st time active user either. With everything being done behind the scenes in my opinion it takes a little bit of preexisting knowledge to understand why the MS8 does what it does, especially when results are less stellar than expected. I think for someone learning the ins and outs of tuning it's better to see the numbers on the display and be in control of what is changing, that way when the sound goes from good to bad or bad to good they hopefully gain an understanding of why a certain change had the result it did. I miss my H701 for that very fact.....when something doesn't turn out exactly right with the MS8 it takes a bit of figuring out why I didn't get the result I expected, and how to fix it.

The slope is measured in db/hz... The sharper the slope, the faster the cut off between lows and highs... Your deck uses a single highpass front and another high pass rear. And one low pass on the sub out. As far as the eq is concerned, it shouldn't make a huge difference, you are just trying to get it to a point where it sounds best to you... You aren't going to compete in SQ so do what sounds best to you and your ears, the guidelines I set forth were the ones given to me by an Iasca pro who takes sound quality to a whole new level. The biggest thing lesson I learned is use a notebook and write down your settings before you change them, and what you changed them to. That way you can look back and adjust more effectively in the future.

Your High Pass crossovers etc are in your head unit, you already listed that you found them in a previous post... If your speakers already have passive crossovers than you don't need to worry about it. A rule of thumb for EQ is never move a band more than 2 settings lower than the next one... Generally speaking SQ competitors don't ever move a band up, but only down because up = artificial amplification. You shouldn't need many features with passive crossovers and factory speakers.

Oscilloscope was used to set gains and prevent clipping.. My ears and that of a fellow SQ pro competitor were used to set the time alignment and eq. I used the high pass filters instead of a passive crossover. The main settings to change are the high pass/low pass filters. I would start out with high pass at 80 hz and low pass at 90 hz.. That head unit can't support a tweeter high pass, but it shouldn't be an issue with stock speakers.

Why do you think this? because i know..... there were only 4 of these built..period... 4 of what built??

Fucking PSI!!!!!!

All flex especially in a daily situation is impossible to get rid of, as long as you're not using it as a measurement to compare to setup there is no harm in it. It's just cool what you can pickup and see when you're recording it. It adds noise while listening to music. That's harm to me. Not to mention how bad it looks/sound for others when you are passing by. Well how do you suggest Julian and I be rid if the flex we have? And if you say "turn it down" or get a "smaller system" then you are a retard.

Ok check this, we don't have "panel" flex. We have the WHOLE DOOR flexing. And the WHOLE windshield. No way to add mass to any of that and keep the vehicle drivable....

You definitely just made your self look like a complete dumbass. The owner had a stock IA cone in this. Then re-coned it. Go blow a shot gun.