Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/30/2013 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I myself am more sure than Sean that you'll be misled a lot. The absolute worst place I've ever gone and heard tips, information, etc. related to car audio is a shop (next to the internet). The defining difference between them though is the difference between the shops whose personnel are stuck up, won't listen and think they're 100% right all the time and the shops with personnel who (whether they believe or do anything with the insight) can listen, comment & communicate, and are humble enough to admit they don't know it all. It's VERY apparent which places these are within a few minutes of walking into the shop and talking with someone. I have two such shops that I thoroughly enjoy visiting when I have the opportunity and they have the time to chat. We get into some great discussions and debates which have lasted hours on a few occasions, lol. In the end though it's all about making a profit and that is the driving force behind a lot of the less than stellar decisions that are made. Shops could take the time and knowledge to custom design and build every installation they do but in reality there's one customer to the hundreds or thousands that come in who would be interested in such an install AND has the money to pay for it. I don't condone the continuing of the bolt it in the factory location, use of cheap equipment and pre-fabbed enclosures, and "installation" that is typical of almost every shop but they would have a hard time staying in business if they didn't. I mean lets face it, most people are completely clueless to what really sounds and works good.
  2. 1 point
    Shim the assembly first to make sure it's snug and centered, pull it back out, apply glue to the spider landing and surround landing and have your gasket close by. Grab the drop in, centering the terminals towards you and the tinsel leads facing you as well, drop the assembly down in the basket with a shim in the inside of the coil to keep it centered. Grab the gasket really quickly and put it around the basket on the surround pinching it down to square the surround up so it is setting in the right spot on the basket, hold down on the assembly a bit and activate the spider landing, then spray backwards underneath the edge of the surround on the back side of it while pinching the gasket together to activate the surround. Let that sit for a while, then peel the gasket off and activate the outside edge of the surround, solder the terminals, remove the shim, install the dustcap.
  3. 1 point
    C Section it is! Sofi Alice is here. Named after Sofi from Howl's Moving Castle. I need sleep...
  4. 1 point
    I would snatch it up. It's a great deal and people really like these beast of amps.
  5. 1 point
    Finally dilating. No C Section. Thank goodness. Thank you all for the thoughts and prayers. Let's do this!
  6. 1 point
    what are the tweeters for exactly? you already have tweeters in each set of coax, why are you trying to achieve? buying more speakers or wasting money on expensive amps won't improve anything.
  7. 1 point
    I didn't post that, pro rabbit did. And yes, you are completely misinterpreting the graph and your conclusions are not correct. It is an impedance and phase graph, not a frequency response graph. Unless you have a TON of experience it's hard to decipher the information you are looking for from it. The lower graph is the impedance curve. The large peak occurs at the resonant frequency (Fs) of the driver. The width, slope and height of that peak is determined by the driver's various Q (damping) factors. Figuring out the Fs is pretty easy, determining what the graph is telling you about the various Q factors of the driver takes a trained eye and some calculations. The Fs and Qts (total damping of the driver) determine the low frequency characteristics of the driver. Combine those with the driver's Vas (not able to be determined from the graph) and you can then model the low frequency characteristics of the driver in various sized sealed and ported enclosures. The rising impedance on the right side of the impedance graph is determined by the inductance (Le) of the driver. The lower the frequency the impedance begins to rise at and/or the steeper the slope of the rise, the higher the inductance is (comparatively). The inductance and subsequent increasing impedance inhibits the high frequency response of the driver. It can't respond fast enough to reproduce those frequencies. It really isn't just the inductance that creates this effect, it's a combination of the driver's inductance in relation to the driver's DC resistance (Re). Two drivers with the same Le but different Re's will behave differently. The top line on the graph is the impedance phase angle. The large impedance variations affects the phase angle of the driver, which is basically how in- or out of phase the voltage and current are. The deviation in the phase tells you that the voltage and current will not be in phase at those frequencies. Anyways....challenging yourself right now would be learning how to maximize the installation and tuning of a 2 way system. If you can't maximize a 2 way installation, then a 3 way will be a fail. Certainly you could simply hook everything up and it would "work", about as well as your current front stage "works"...which is to say it will play music but perform now where near how it should sound or anywhere near it's full potential. First, home and car audio are completely different environments. Second, those home audio speakers have (well, should have had) a good bit of engineering behind their design and are not just cobbled together as you are proposing. Using something just because you have it isn't how you go about designing a quality system, especially when the product was probably a poor purchase decision to start with. And you still haven't answered my questions.
  8. 1 point
    Black is the CA glue, the spray clear stuff is the accelerator. You do NOT want to put the accelerator on before you put the glue on..the glue is designed to put together wet and get everything in place and then activate it.
  9. 1 point
    Free upgrades, shipping, and carbon fiber dust caps on the Fi subs. I would get the X over the SA any day.
  10. 1 point
    There is nothing bad AT ALL about under powering a speaker. Think of it this way do you ever turn your volume down? Every time you turn the volume down you reduce the power, I've never heard of anyone blowing a speaker by turning the volume down. The myth comes from people who buy a speaker and think that they have to turn the gain up to 100% to get the amps "full power" but that is not the case. If you crank your amp to 100% you are making the amp clip sending far more power to the sub than the amp is rated at, thus over powering it.
  11. 1 point
    Good to hear you got it safe and sound. The lead change was a minor adjustment done recently and we have not had a chance to update the website with photos and info as that takes some good time. Awesome to hear you love the sound. Is it fully broken in for you? I ask as all that suspension and motor force and take a little bit of time to settle. If you have your review, I can manually add it if you like. But again, thank you for picking the Xcon, each one (as we are a low volume production higher end niche brand) means a lot to us. Post install pix on the forum if you like. This is what Aaron had written to me about the leads. I thought the same thing......
  12. 1 point
    It is something with the amp. Ran the RCA's to the Mid amp and had output to my mids. So then I pulled the Sub to check the internal wiring, looked ok. next, I drug out my box with my 10" redlines and wired them up...Nada. At this point I knew the amp was the issue. Well- guess what I JUST had arrive....my BC3500 I bought from Sean(W140). Wired the sub to 4 ohms and hooked up the crescendo. we had boom again. the crecendo at 'only' 900-1000 rms at 4 ohms slams the xcon. though it is only temporary. Now I did find something that was concerning to me...the Xcon I just recieved, is quite a bit different from my first one. My first one had triple leads ran under the spider pack, and the spider pack was black, and flush to the top of the recess. My first X- 18"D1 The new one is altogether different. First is the exposed leads. Looks like an Icon the someone posted a few days ago with a piece of felt to soften lead slap. The spider is down in the bottom of the recess. you can see bare metal were it appears to have been ground and scraped clean. I feel like it was reconed...Anyone else find this weird? I think Joe bought it straight from SSA, I could be mistaken. Pic of Xcon I have now- 18"D2
  13. 1 point
    This is the best way I can explain why. I live in a very very small town. The type of place where if you do something wrong as a child your parents and grandparents know about it before you get home. My family name is a good one and we are known to help out as much as possible. It isn't just a better ploy of doing business. I believe it's a better way to live life and I'm much happier and prouder when I can truly help other people. You can ask anyone that knows me personally that it isn't just a front, it my way of life.
  14. 1 point
    thank you for the response and fixing the website, i appreciate it