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Incriminator Audio 40.1 amplifier 4800wrms at 1-ohm used and in great condition $900 shipped specs can be found here: http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/incriminator-audio-ia40-1-4800w-rms-amplifier-w-splitforce-technology.html

Build your Dream DC Audio subwoofer! Offering a mountain of customization's, you can now explore all DC Audio's excellent product options on SSA! No need to call a dealer and waste 40 minutes talking about the options, they are all turn-key on our website. Need a Re-Cone?! We got that covered also. All product options have been applied to the DC Re-Cone section . Visit the newly revamped DC Audio section today! #ArriveLoud http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/categories/subs/shop-by-brand/dc-audio.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68892_MTX-5510-22.html check out the xmax, sensitivity and recommended volume on this guy. No pole vent either.

I've been looking for a simple, easy to use processor that did not require a PC. I ordered this very intriguing processor and will post reviews after I install it during Thanksgiving week break.

The owner is Skar is a crook. If you want that driver I would buy the Dayton.

It's really good for what it is. I would have greatly preferred to have an additional output channel so I can adjust my sub. The physical quality is decent, but it's nothing great. I love, love, love the fact that it's controlled by an app on my phone and that's the number one reason I chose this unit with a price of $199 being the second consideration. I would buy this again and recommend this for first timers and people on a budget, but with my next car audio build I will go for a unit that can process my sub as well. I guess I'll have to borrow a friend's PC (I don't have any friends with a PC so I'll have to make new friends ) and pay two or three times as much.

Update: Installed not just the DSP, but replaced the JBL component system with SSA Evil tweets and mids so I can't do a direct comparison. Installation: very, very simple. Interior space is at a premium in Jeep Wranglers and this thing got stuck behind the dash using double sided automotive tape. The 2 input and 4 output RCAs are labeled by stickers (one fell off), I would have greatly appreciated color coded connections, but I was careful and didn't mix anything up. Tuning: the app is very intuitive on my iPhone SE, it even includes a demo mode so I got to play around with the large, easy to use menus while the DSP was being shipped from Brazil. Most settings are easy to adjust by either directly typing in the desired values or by pressing an up or down icon. My fingers are large and my phone is small but I have no issues fine tuning. Sound: No noise... that's a very good thing! Functionality: 13 bands in the graphic eq section with htz values at 25, 63, 160, 400, 1K, 2.5K, 6.3K, and 16K. You can set different values for all 4 output channels. There is one user assigned parametric eq frequency. The crossovers are probably the best part with different typology and slopes from 6 to 48 db. Very easy to set and tinker with. In addition there is delay and phase controls as well as an audio generator and battery voltage tool. Conclusions: I'm the ultimate neophyte with active crossovers and sound processors so everything is new and I lack the proper vocabulary, so in layman's terms...

Ok so I had some down time these last few months on this project due to construction going on around my house and not having the usual space to work in. Sucks tho cause now its gonna be cold and rainy but I wanna get this done bad! I just pulled the trigger tonight on all the goodies. Besides the new alt/batt if needed and wire etc, I will have everything I need to finish this build. Time to get crackin! Sub- SSA Xcon 15" Sub amp- SoundQubed 2200D Mids/Highs amp- NVX JAD800.4 Mids- SSA Evil 6.5" Tweets- SSA Evil 1"

Well its gone from the store now. I had my eye on the demo model that was D1. I always wanna go big but I'm gonna keep it to 2k watts instead of 5k. I think the 15" Xcon will fit the power and needs quite nicely.

You're on the right track, just know the final X over points will be based more on what sounds good and blends best once installed. Getting the vocals to sound good is usually a big part of the equation, as it's like getting four people to all talk coherently all at once. One more reason not to have rears, as then it's six people all talking at once. If everything isn't dialed to blend just right (or close lol) you will get distractive distortion/ cancellation at the crossover point. The explanation in the post above was just to give you a bearing on speaker selection. Not a guideline on setting points. With that said, 1500 is pretty low for a tweeter, and you will get waaaay more output from the 6.5" mid in that range. I think my mids are at 2500, and tweets at 3200. The mids would play way higher (and still sound good) but they have a breakup node at 4K. Without individual eq for each speaker it's a no go for me. I'm not positive, but think your hu may have eq for each individual channel. Put it this way, the mid is the workhorse. The tweets are just there to give a little sparkle on top. (The top couple octaves) Same with the sub, it's just there to fill the very bottom octave. Think how many octaves that leaves the mid playing.

Hey, I don't hate rap but I do hate bad rap. One other warning. You were discussing a 3 way before and the 80prs will only do a 2 way. Means without adding more processing you cannot do a midbass, midrange and tweeter. Btw, I also don't expect you want to be in my camp...but I came from yours but am just old now. I would never recommend you do what I do but don't want you to have the growing pains I did either.

All right first, don't let the octave thing confuse you. One octave up or down is simply a double or half the frequency. So an octave below 100Hz would be 50Hz and one above would be 200Hz... then 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12,800. The number doesnt actually matter, it's simply half or double. 1/3 octave is the point the human ear will pick up a change in pitch/tone. For our purposes today we will use the scale that will appear on your crossover and your Eq. I believe that head unit lets you select 1/3 octaves. Starting at the bottom 25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 500..... 1250, 1600, 2000, 2500, 3150, 4000, 5000, 6300, 8000, 10,000, 12,500..... you'll see the span between numbers gets larger the higher you go, but there is no more "information" in that large span then in the small span. There are basically three notes in each octave. So on to how this pertains to speaker selection. The tweeter being the most finicky so will start there. A tweeter with an FS of 1250Hz, Will not like to be crossed lower than 2500Hz. One with an FS of 1500Hz, won't like being crossed lower than 3.15K. One with an Fs of 1000Hz, Will dig low and play comfortably at 2000Hz. Now a true mid range speaker will have no problem playing up to either of those points, (and beyond) and still sound good . A speaker that is considered more of a midbass will also play up to those points, but will sound poopy. So if you were looking at a speaker that is more of a true midbass, you all want a tweeter that can dig low. Same with a subwoofer, it may be play up to 500Hz, but will some poopy anywhere after 80Hz. Now on the personal preferences and what I think you would like. Let's start at the subwoofer, I will assume Jay has his crossed at 80Hz, and five has his crossed and 50Hz. And I know I have mine crossed and 63Hz. The reason Jay has his crossed high is he is mating to mid range speaker, and wants the most "weight" he can from the subwoofer. There is less detail in chopped and screwed and rap music. The reason five would cross his at 50Hz is he is after more clarity and smoothness than weight, as jazz is very smooth and detailed. Next I will assume Jay has his mids crossed it 100Hz, and five has his crossed at 63Hz. Jays mid range speaker will be more head cracking, if it's not trying to play low notes that are covered by the subwoofer. We will Assume five has a mid that is considered both a midbass and mid range. One that plays smooth across the whole frequency band, and is not peaky in the mid range. Fives midbass/midrange will sound smoother than than subwoofer, and not play head cracking in the mid range. On to the tweeter. I will assume Jay has his crossed that 3.15K, and fives are crossed at 2K. Jay already has his mid range covered, and is more after ear blistering highs. Jay most likely cares less about soundstage and more about loudness. Again five probably cares more about clarity, detail and soundstage. Just like between the subwoofer and mid, fives tweeter will play more detailed and clear then the mid at the same frequencys. Also the tweeter is the part of the equation that can be moved around the car, to achieve a better soundstage. I would personally think you are probably leaning more towards Jay's camp. Five has ridiculously discerning ears, listens at a more moderate level than most and he hates rap. I fall in the middle because I listen to just about everything, from too short and easy-e, reba McEntire to Randy Travis, Otis redding to Elton John and slayer to lamb of god. One other Added note, a speaker will handle double power each octave higher it is crossed. Jays speakers will play lower, but handle more power to get loud crossed higher. Hope that helps. Let use know what you think.

Yeah the Evils are pretty damn good and I was skeptical at first with it's specs vs other drivers I have used. When I first installed my one Evil to do some testing, I also installed a used Pioneer double-din that I got from my cousin. The midbass alone is what stood out to me, for some reason it seemed like I had subs again. Come to find out that my cousin had a customize preset set on Performance on the EQ and it didnt reset when I isntalled the h\u. It just showed me the potential of these drivers. Since I have very efficient and loud tweeters, I dont need my mids to play that loud or into higher frequencies. Just midrange output, the Eminence wins. But output over a larger bandwith without sacrficing the tonal sound and clear midrange, the Evil wins. I also read up on facebook, where SSA posted about a guy doing a swap from his PRVs to Evils and loved them. Yes with the 80PRS you have great processing, so need to worry there.

So far in my current testing, driver door has Eminence Alpha-6c and passenger door has SSA Evil. Im enjoying the passenger door more and more everyday. Yes the Eminence is louder but sound quality wise the Evil wins hands down and I've been using Eminence drivers for 10 years and love them. The Evils are also upgrades over my Silverflutes and SB Acoustics drivers I've tried lately.

I recovered the headliner today. Made a few mistakes along the way but overall its not bad. Learned my lesson on a few things if I ever try this again. Wasn't too hard either. Two people would make this job much easier. If you try to remove it once you laid it down on the glue and have too thin of foam it will rip that shit right off and you are basically stuck at what point it has settled into. Get thick foam like at least 3/16" thick and if you get fabric w/o foam attached already, make sure you join those two layers together instead of trying to apply one at a time. I knew I should have done that but I took the advice of my uber crafty gf and didn't stick with my gut feelin lol.

Ok...nowwwwwww were cookin!!! Everything but the main dash and the headliner have been removed. Fuck it. If you're gonna do it, do it right huh?

The antenna is the black one, not the brown. had to move all this crap out of the way to get to the factory amp, but its tucked off nicely in the wheel well

glad i read this. Just changed the HU in My w219. this was from a w211 https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/595334-after-market-android-4-4-4-quad-core-complete-install-vids-pics-txt.html Basically you need to remove the factory radio and amp, cd changer and navigation. couldnt remove my cd changer since its behind the ac controls but it no longer is usefull, a few people wired it to where it would still hold cds as storage, but who uses cd's these days. Its all ran from the radio. So if you want to use the stock amp and nav you have to buy that fiber cable connector. I just took it all out. Removed the stock radio ran all my wires to the radio(pos, acc, ground) from where the factory amp is to the HU. the factory amp has the speaker wires already there so connected them to a new amp. And there is also a antenna adapter cable you have to buy(fakra to Motorola) https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=200577104709&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps After installing everything i was getting weird static and ran the noise isolator to my radio +pos not acc and it went away. was gonna wait to post my build, but Ill post what i have in here for you.

I took off the driver side door panel tonight to see what i'm workin with inside there. Definitely needs an upgrade for sure. I think I might even be able to fit Evil mids in the front part These plastic mounts are glued to the speaker tho so i will need to made some mods with rings i guess. Not sure about the rear speakers but they look the same size, just a smaller cover. will be getting a 4 channel amp to power all of that too. Maybe a Barbara Ann would do. keep the cost down and still give me a much needed upgrade in the front stage