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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/07/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Four channel amp: http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/ssa-ic150-4-600w-4-channel-amplifier.html
  2. 2 points
    My $.02... Don't waste any money on rear fill, with a properly set up front stage it'll only muck things up. Alpine amps are great, so are Rockford Fosgate amps. This is a car audio forum and many seek to try the smaller, less commercial equipment, but mainstream companies can and do put out some good stuff, especially amps. All the PRV mids you listed are 'pro audio" drivers. Their purpose is to get LOUD with relatively little power. The compromise they make to achieve this is limited frequency response. Pro Audio drivers typically lack midbass and unless you cross your subwoofers off at 120hz, you'll have very noticeable gaps in the frequencies covered. To go active you'll need to bandpass your midrange drivers, i.e. lowpass and highpass. There are a few amps that can do this, as well as a few head units, but your best bet is to get a sound processor. Many guys on this site use the mini-DSP which is full function and very affordable. I don't have a PC and really wanted to make adjustments easily so I went with a Stetsom STX-2436 because it was $200, tiny (I have a Jeep Wrangler with very limited space), and a bluetooth app that controls the unit. This was my first active system (previously I was a component guy) and I went with SSA Evil tweets and Evil mids. I'm still making adjustments, but I'm very happy I went the active route.
  3. 1 point
    My suggestion for tweeter xover point is get the mid to play as high as possible and stilll sound good. Then bring the tweeter down to the mid. If they are drivers with a decent frequency response to begin with, only a few minor adjustments should be needed at that point. Gain settings between the mids and tweeter being an important one of them. That statement correlates with my post above too, which is the minimalist approach. a dsp running active is a barrel of fun though, if you're into that kind of thing.
  4. 1 point
    IIRC Eric Stevens said the mid in that ID set rolls off naturally and xover is for the tweeter only. The pic kind of suggests that too. I read that on their forum quite some time ago but you should be able to find the post. with that said you could find a mid that rolls off smooth on the top and have better luck without a new processor immediately. Especially if you can find out where the tweeter xover is set before picking.
  5. 1 point
    You are in good hands, here ! I'm still "new" to the active thing, after a year I had all the help I needed from the helpfull SSA members. The mini dsp is cheap, but I am so happy with mine. I did hide it in my glove box. And the 2V rca outputs are fine for me. I don't even know if it's 2v or 4v, or whatever volt it is.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    You might say I am a little biased.
  8. 1 point
    I would contact ID and ask them what frequency they cross the tweeters over at in the passive network. That way you’ll know exactly what your target frequency for it would be to get in the middle of the ballpark for running active, no guessing involved. The Fi N.7 has fantastic specifications and should sound great. I can’t wait to play with a set in person. The SSA Evil 6.5” mid sounds very good and is a great bargain at the price they ask for them. My set made me very happy while my brother in law was demoing them in his car. I’m really looking forward to the opportunity to finally get them installed in mine. The mids will be the toughest decision simply because you can’t just listen to them all somewhere. To make the decision even harder (lol) I suggest taking a look through the lists of drivers available at Parts Express and Madisound. The raw drivers at those stores are a great place to start if you were interested in going that route. I know exactly what you are referring to on the sound of your old mids. As much as I love my Fi and SSA equipment I have to say that one of the best drivers I’ve heard that fits that description to a “T” is the Peerless HDS 830875. I gave a set I bought used to my brother in law for his build and after we got everything installed and tuned I wish I had kept them!! Super smooth, warm response that brought out the finest details with ease. They should definitely be on your list of equipment to consider. Your assumption on the difference between regular woofers/mids and the PA drivers is pretty well spot on. While PA speakers “CAN” sound good very very few will right out of the box and even with a great EQ at your disposal the vast majority of them will excel at getting loud and still never sound that good. Most need an enclosure, a ported one even better, to get remotely usable midbass and without that a warmer response will be difficult to obtain J is right though, you can always save up and buy the different parts of your equipment as you can and piece it together. I’m in the middle of doing so for my Grand Prix right now. I had the Evil mids, got the Evil tweeters a few months ago, a pair of SSA F8L 8” subs a little over a month ago, just picked up a pair of SSA IC150.4 amps a couple of weeks ago and got my JL TWK88 DSP last week. I’m working my way towards getting the IC2200.1 and while right now I have a pair of SSA DCON subs as well to help complete an all SSA system I have been piecing this together for awhile now. The crossovers and such you’re looking at are okay but I’m very honestly saying that they’re a waste in comparison to any decent DSP. The plethora of settings available in just one controller is mind blowing and kinda addictive, lol. Multiple bands, up to 31 bands of graphic and/or parametric EQ per each channel. Crossovers that can be set to any frequency(ies) you want, high pass, low pass and bandpass, from -6dB to -48dB slopes per channel, and oftentimes selectable between linkwitz-Riley, Butterworth, etc curves. Time alignment, individual channel gain controls, phase switching, and more all can be found available in the decent DSP’s available today. They’re an investment that you can use for years to come in any build you end up doing. The miniDSP is very budget friendly and very powerful for the price. The only thing people see as a drawback is the limited 2V RCA outputs, which if those folks were in the know doesn’t mean anything. No one minds you making long posts. Trust me it’s a welcome sight to the sore eyes around here and the typical, “I just wanna bang as loud as I can so which one is better, sub X or sub Y?” lol That’s not the norm for around here but we don’t seldom see posts with questions with quite this much information. It’s refreshing in my honest opinion so keep it up!
  9. 1 point
    Definitely ditch the rears. Even if you drive a suburban they are a net negative. As far as crossovers, definitely a 3 way. Get a full processor and then sell the eq. Only question is which one.
  10. 1 point
    Thanks man. As far as the equipment goes, I think I could have probably got some better stuff if I did more research when I bought it all. I could have saved some money and got some better amps instead of the Alpine PDX. All of the huge power smaller brand amps out there today are insane! I know these mainstream consumer brands that are on store shelves aren't that great. Brands like Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer, etc. Aside from the head units, you never see any of these awesome builds online using any of these Brand Name amplifies or speakers. I went toward the PDX because of all the fancy tech Alpine describes that they are built with, but more than anything else was the size and that they are stackable. They fit perfectly under the driver seat in my truck which is very limited on places to put equipment while maintaining the daily use of the vehicle. I noticed that when I went from the ID to the Eminence, the sound quality changed. The ID sounded very natural and smooth, and things like guitar strings and vocals just had a much more full and clean sound to them. The Eminence are definitely louder, and sound fine on loud rock music and rap, but everything sounds more compressed together, or maybe muddy. It just doesn't have the same sort of depth and fullness to them. They have been fine for $40/each, but I'm missing the overall sound quality and enjoyment of being surrounded by it. That is why I'd like to get a more normal type of speaker back in there. You think that I should just get rid of the rear door speakers completely? Even versus just putting some decent value priced 6x9s in there and running them on the HU or just a small 2ch to add a little more volume and sound in there? I know that rear fill is really not intended to be listened it, but it does at least put some sound into the back seat.
  11. 1 point
    Can't help with crossover points without knowing the drivers. That being said, rear fill is 1000% a waste of time and money. Add to that the PRV mids sound like serious ass in any 2 way. So we need to start with getting some actual logical choices then we can dial things in.
  12. 1 point
    No test. Just ran the Evil's right up until the new mounts where complete, then removed them. The Evil's are intended for another car and where just filling in. Sorry for the confusion.
  13. 1 point
    That's a tough one to answer in regards to frequency response, with as little time and tuning as I have had with the HDS's. The HDS is made to eat a LOT of power and just as sensitive as the Evil. I Also doubled up the power at the same time of switching. The Evil's are smoother sounding and more forgiving right out of the box, without being dull at all. They handled 100 watts and being crossed as low as 1400hz no problem. With all that said, the HDS is just getting started output wise and can produce very dynamic peaks on the power available. The sound is almost holographic and definitely realistic. To give the Evil's fair credit, I don't feel they where aimed ideally.
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