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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    So I see theres a subwoofer that comes in a 4 ohm and a 2 ohm version. I believe a 2 ohm version would be easier to run and most D class amps are compatible with lower ohm rated subwoofers? So is the only reason between the versions, based on which amplifier you have? Just trying to understand this. Thanks! Also, yes I did buy an Acura TLX 2017 tech. With the ELS speaker system. It sounds pretty good but is lacking in quality bass. It has an 8 in subwoofer which sound distorted and horrible. I'll first start by getting a decent subwoofer and then speakers later. Edit: also what SSA sub would be comparable to the JL 12w6 and one comparable to the JLw3? I'm pretty sure that JL has good subwoofers with SQ but they are expensive due to the brand name etc... Looking for 12 inch subwoofer that leans towards SQ but still decent loud. thanks The Icon 12" 1250W seems within my price range. except the RMS rating seems a bit much? So if I don't want to run an amp with more than 600 RMS rating, would that mean it won't sound as great?
  2. 1 point
    Pay no attention to power ratings. You can not under power a speaker. When I say driver, that's just a different term for speaker, subwoofer, etc. . . So a quality driver would be a subwoofer of quality design and build that fits your application. The old adage of "you get what you pay for," certainly applies here, but it is pretty simple to spend as little as $100 and still get a quality sub. If you want to use SSA, subs, I highly recommend them. I have no experience with the new drivers, but do with the older stuff, and they make a quality product with excellent service. As for the processing, you can try the LOC. I don't know how the factory handles processing. Some are done in the headunit, but most have a separate processor/amplifier combo. I would do a bit more research to see if could tap into the signal before it is processed such as getting it straight off the head before it hits the factory processor or amplifier.
  3. 1 point
    Just more stuff to install. The prs80 is right at your fingertips. Without comparing both units side by side I cant tell you which one has the better features or even if you will use them all. Really comes down to a personal preference really. Look up both units and see what you will be more comfortable with. Just my .02
  4. 1 point
    JL products are not expensive because they're a name brand, they are expensive because they are a premium manufacturer. All of their products are great and in demand and demand drives pricing. Let's throw the SQ term out the window in regards to subwoofers, it's a fallacy. While certain drivers excel better in certain areas, most subwoofers are going to sound the same. You can spend $100 and it can sound just like another $500 driver that is a "sound quality" driver, AND they can both easily get loud. You're covering a small range in the spectrum here. Just focus on picking a quality driver that will work for your application. Narrow down your driver and how you're going to apply it, then pick an amp.
  5. 1 point
    I think that year Wrangler is a single DIN. If so, I recommend this Pioneer. I am running two of them myself and love them. The Pioneer app makes phone integration very fluid. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DS5120B/Pioneer-DEH-S5120BT.html
  6. 1 point
    We should really start with your box and goals, then a sub is easy to recommend. JL makes nice stuff, but the bang for the buck on them is far less than the SSA models. As for which impedance to buy, you need to know what your goals are so that your choice of sub doesn't limit your amplifier choices. They come in various coil configurations to allow for logical loading on an amplifier. ie, if you buy a 2ohm stable sub amp it would be not so logical to have a sub or set of subs that would only allow you to load the amp with 4ohms (or 1ohm or anything other than 2 for that matter).
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