Leaderboard

Play the sub alone and listen to it. I would be suspect of the settings....any shop that tells you about box rise but forgets to tell you about box fall is confused. He is just regurgitating something he doesn't understand. To explain, all drivers have an impedance response and this response can change based on the environment it is mounted in. This response is a curve, it does not only rise but also falls at differing frequencies. Subs are specified in thermal and mechanical power handling to deal with both the response of the driver and the box it is in. Having the installer "scare" you that you aren't getting power because of rise is completely irrelevant. To make matters worse, implying that you would hear a difference in a 1500w amp as compared to a 1000w is asinine. Go enjoy your setup. Your installers comments take with a grain of salt. Since you have to take them with a grain of salt I personally would double check everything he did.

Nice nice nice great subs

Also, higher volt (14 and 16) cells, have lower amp hour ratings. Keep that in mind also.

So a car battery is wired to the ignition of the car. When you start a car or turn the key to the ON position it will turn on other components in the car (hvac, lights, etc). This is accomplished with relays. When a relay is switched on it sends 12v from the battery to the components wired to that relay (lights for example). If a car didn't do this then the battery would be drained because all the components in the car would be constantly powered on. So if you look at basic wiring diagram for a headunit you will see the 12V constant power from the battery and accessory power (switched power from the ignition). You can think of the accessory power as the remote IN to the headunit. The headunit will then create a remote out [sometimes called the antenna out, (some cars use this signal to raise the antenna)] which is wired to other audio devices in the car (amps, LOCs, DSP, etc). So these components are effectively passing through the accessory power from the car's ignition.

Each piece of equipment will have a positive run that comes from the battery, straight to the + side terminal. There will be a ground that gets connected to the steel chassis, or directly back to the battery. For the remote, this is a 12V trigger lead. Basically, it's a voltage controlled switch that normally comes from the headunit. When the unit comes on, it sends 12V down this wire into the equipment. This is what tells it to turn on. The amp and LOC will require this. That particular LOC though has circuitry that enables it to sense voltage through the speaker wires that are used as a signal source for the input to the LOC. These circuits are sometimes temperamental, so that means sometimes remote line is needed for input to assure the LOC turns on and off as it should. Now this unit also provides an remote output switch as well. The ONLY wire(s) that will go to the battery are the 12V positive inputs. The remote should come from the headunit if possible. If not, he will have to install a relay and wire it up to a circuit that comes on and goes off with the ignition.

I think that's CHEAP. I'd charge at least $120/ hr for my labor. As for the LOC, it's not difficult at all. He's just letting you know it may take a little more if the voltage sensor does not work properly. I have yet to see a sensor in the home or 12V side that functions properly every time. Either the electronics are too sensitive or not enough and you either have a unit that never shuts off, never turns on, or just flops all over. Honestly, I'd talk to him and tell him you'd just like to have him run a switched lead to a relay to control the Audio Control and then use the remote out feature of it to turn the amp on. This gives you a 12V switch you need and allows for timed on/off to eliminate any potential interference or voltage fluctuations.