j-roadtatts

TMI muthafucka....

I have a Sony Cybershot and LOVE it. Very user friendly.

WE got 8 inches of snow today and its still coming. REALLY WET snow.

Like I stated twice now I only used the MAX recommended hardener, I bought quality resin at the autobody store, I think atmoshpere has very little to to do with the resin hardening. Sorry to cluter your build log brother, I just like to share what I haver learned. Please take a look at my build and please don't be bashful with the comments, I just post a shit load of pictures cause I know most people don't read anyway. Keep up the GOOD work and I'll be watchin'.

Beaming: Not positive to what to correct definintion would be though? a term used to describe a speaker with narrow dispersion characteristics.

X pucking 2 I need to buy a saw so I can cut my own wood from now on since Home Depot didnt do all the cuts precise (I guess if you want it done right you do it yourself). Theres a reason them jackasses work at Home Depot, they can't fuckin' hang on a job site, same with all the stupid building inspectors out there...... Its not home depot's job to cut it right, it says right there on the saw it is not for precision cuts. Why even get out of bed if you are going to do something half ass. Do it right or don't do it at all......

i like it alot, for some reason i like the model i have better than the 07-08...i leased one and those are just too bulky for me, so the SE i have now is the perfect size with just enough beast in it Thats funny, the Xterras are the other way around. My friend has an 05 and its more like a car and I couldn't own one.

The book says the codes on 95 and newer hondas need an OBD ll scan tool or factory PGM tester. that sucks, the older ones only required a jumper wire installed and the check engine light blinked out the codes like morse code. If the light is an amplimeter, and not voltmeter, the amps could be out of the lights exceptable range scale.

I have a code book, let me dig it out and see what it says.....

HA, HA now I think I know where you got your handle, I use to ride ArticCat M5. I rode the M7 after that but I'm 200 lbs so I liked the lower M5 more. Nope. Never owned a ditch pickle. I'm 220lbs, but like my stuff to last. Polaris all the way. My avatar should be a dead giveaway on why my handle is M5...considering it is my car. I hope thier sleds are better than thier 4wheelers, the sportsmans are junk.LOL Ha Ha actually the RMK was my second pick back then, havent road in a few years. I was closer to 250 then also, The m5 handled nice for my fat ass.... I got a 660 Grizzly now.....hold the fuck on.

X pucking 2 I need to buy a saw so I can cut my own wood from now on since Home Depot didnt do all the cuts precise (I guess if you want it done right you do it yourself). Theres a reason them jackasses work at Home Depot, they can't fuckin' hang on a job site, same with all the stupid building inspectors out there......

I don't understand how this is posible, Mine was hard to the touch in about an hour at 20 degrees with no sun and alot of cold wind. I used the max recommened hardener and thats it. Next time you do fiberglass feel how hot the resin gets......

Like I said this is my own personal experince not something I heard. I was only thinking about your heater/AC vents stinking forever. Good luck!

Lookin' GOOD, I'm tuned in. How do you like your Pathfinder? I have a 2006 Nissian Xterra.

Welcome to SSA. I'm glad to see people that aren't afraid to get thier hands dirty. I will be tuned in. Fiberglass hardens through chemical reaction and has nothing to heat because Resin produces its own heat. I did some a couple weeks ago outside at 20 degress with no sun and used the max recommended hardener. The fiberglass still hardened in about an hour.

I have three options for the tweeters. I can leave them where they are now, I can put them back in the A-pillars or up against the winshield firing straight up, refrecting off the winshield. I have tried the tweeters I have now in all three spots. against the winsheild definetly had the highest sound stage naturally, the A pillars ONLY sounded good IF I leaned forward so the a-pillars could probly sound pretty good with on axis pods, I have an extra set of A-pillars with a hole already in them. THe tweeters in the doors where they are now definetly gives the most detail and I can make the on axis if wanted . All spots required different att. to match the levels so the closer proximty of the doors requires less power. I do have the polarity switched on the tweeter right now because was out of phase in the door. They where like BARK, BARK. THe midrange is as good as its probably gonna get afar as location and on-axis short of running 3 1/2's or 4 1/2's in the A-pillar, and with time alinment they are pretty good distance wise. The midbass can go behind the midrange, in the back door, or under the front seats. I don't have a golden ear so 3db shift is probably an understatement.

The problem with the 9886 and H100 is once the H100 is used I only get the 3 RCA channel's. My next option is Y the mid channel and use the crossovers in the amps for the midbass--midrange since I won't be adjusting this point much. This will leave the HU crossover's for sub--midbass and midrange--tweeter points with no passive crossovers. If I do this I will use a third smaller amp for the tweeters. I have a RF punch 301 amp I will use for the tweeters. You should now by now Sean that I will put in ALL the EFFORT it take's to make myself happy. I LOVE to build things with my hands, quit smoking 3 years ago, quit drinking 1 1/2 ago, and have a SHIT LOAD of extra Energy and spare time on my hands. I will build and re-build until I am happy with the results and learn alot along the way. My next post will be a picture and options.