ChaosWarlord26

I would recommend letting the 10 go a little high in the range if being used for mid bass. I would go 60-150 or maybe even 200. That will depend on your front stage and how strong of a presence the mids will have there. Keep up the good work. It is all trial and error when making boxes.

Samething with mine. Thermostat locked, over heated, and goodbye headgasket. It is a known issue for these. When I did mine 9 years ago the gasket kit alone cost me $189, then another $200 in labor to have it done. Maybe you have some mechanical skills and can do it your self. The main to worry about is the Head, Hopefully it did't warp.

Thanks for the gut shot, I also run the rub 250 and I also run the PCX1500d and I am very happy with their performance as well.

An Alternator job is not to charge batteries. But more or less to maintain charge. The alternator is supposed front the amperage needed to run the electrical and the battery/batteries are there for a reserve. So yes in theory if you keep dropping your batteries voltages you will eventually kill them and your alt as well because it was not made to recharge over and over....

those amps were made in 1992. Dinosaurs of the audio world...There were 3 M100's and an M25. 2 M100's for the subs and one for the door speakers, and the M25 for the rear fill.....

Here are some pics of one of my first builds from the late 90's.... I was able to hit 148.6 off of 1000 rms from the Phoenix Gold M100's......

I am not very good with Google Sketch....so here is what I have got.

I personally would redesign the box differently. I would be glad to help just give me the external max dimensions. I would say lay some deadner today.

That's why it is trial and error with the box. Once he gets the tuning down those nubers will rise. Just wait it will happen.

Try doing a slow sweep at half volume sealed on the dash with the doors closed to see if you have a higher resonant frequency......

You may have some port noise if you are not careful. (That might not even matter to you though.) You can also sand out the edges of the PCV pipe to help reduce some noise as well. Let me find it first then I will PM the rest of the info and some pics. Keep those numbers rolling.

Sure I'd let it go. It is a 160 or 180 amp from Ohio Generators. I remember when I installed it I had to use a different main bolt and some washers to get it lined up just right. It was a beast compared to the stock.....lol...I try to find some pics of my setup I had in the neon as well. Good luck with the new ports.

I think you are right about the rebuild. The design was great but that is all a part of the trial an error. You should be able to get mid to high 140's with those 4 - 10"s pretty easily. I used to run a 95 neon back in the day. I actually still have the HO alt for it somewhere. I had it rebuilt and boxed it up.....It is definitely looking good though. Stay motivated.

thats not a trunk though.... Your right, it is harder in a standard truck. Because there is less physical length for the bass wave to extend. So I have to play a lower frenquecy which is harder to get higher SPL numbers. (I'm only getting a quarter wave length at most). Whith that Xcon and built to spec box and the appropiate power he should be able to hit mid to high 140's.

ROFL What seems impossible to you can be easy (or not) for others !!! imagination, skills, tools, help,...... Not to hijack your thread but it was rather easy and my next build will be 2 12" Xcons. (I've actually got room for 2 18's Sealed). You should check out my build log. Build Log Link