ak11667

Really? You're surprised? canada is looking real good right now

although that link is dead

im a follower

and this is a good site to track packages you would be surprised on how powerful this site is http://www.packagetrackr.com

so im able to find products at huge discounts and great deals, mainly because of a few websites i know about im not making a commission for posting this, am not being paid in any way, i just thought i would share some of my sites i use to find deals first one http://www.mpja.com/ they have great deals on random items including this one for a double action linear cylinder for 15 dollars http://www.mpja.com/Double-Action-3_4-Bore-Air-Cylinred/productinfo/19176+HD/ and i really dont want to share this one but i will anyways http://www.aliexpress.com/ that is a china direct website, order nearly anything direct from china from tv's to amplifiers, to clothing etc make sure you order from a verified supplier, if the deal is too good to be true, chances are its not a real deal

i have a 97 qx4 basically the exact same car except for the drivetrain and transferbox (it uses the system from a skyline) I had 4 15's and 20kw in it, right now i just have the door speakers in it and a hho system because i was getting 8mpg highway ( i get 25 now) im gonna put 4 18's in it eventually in a b pillar wall mine is fully "armored" ive been shot at in it before so i know it can at least stop a 45 handgun the windows dont go down anymore but the door panels go exterior door skin-> 2 layers of dynamat-> then a layer of 1/4 inch alumnium -> then a layer of 3/4 inch mdf with 8 lb/sqft rigid foam inbetween both layers and the alum and the door the roof and trunk are the same way the floor is just 2 layers of dynamat the car is bagged on stock rims, matte black paint all over

im also thinking of offering battery boxes and custom amp racks, and amp panels so that you can mount the amp upside down with the bottom plate removed and have an engraved lighted sheet of plexi over it

so within the next week or so ill be buying a manufacturer section on the forum and i need opinions and suggestions for products to offer i have speaker rings with and without tweeter mounts pre fab boxes but optimized for certain subs knockdown home theater speaker boxes and whole kits door pods and custom panel engraving what else should i offer, remember that these will all be things i can cut out of my cnc i can cut wood, plexi and engrave metal

yes i could do kerfing, i just need to get a new bit for that i can cut full 4x8 sheets of wood, and plexiglass and engrave metal i ship them as "knockdown" basically all the parts are cut and ready for you, all you have to do is assemble them, and i label all the parts so you know what is what the differences between oak and birch are mainly cosmetic, oak is a harder wood and can change the dynamics of the box, and it flexes slightly less but mainly its cosmetic, oak will look better stained and varnished it costs me 45 a sheet of 3/4 inch birch, i have no idea on oak, i havent priced it yet mdf is like 25-35 depending on who has it in stock i wont charge more than i pay for the wood per sheet, just for the milling time and designing time, because i have to take your dimensions and convert them into instructions my machine can read

mounted the router and the end mill today ive also ordered a new controller board and i will be ordering a even better one later this week that will increase my accuracy drastically

yes, that will be one of my main offerings, i will even have 3 wood choices MDF = low Birch = mid oak = high

here is the home theater center channel. you could also just order 5 of these for a MTM design in every speaker all speakers will have rounded edges and include crossovers remember the beauty of having a cnc allows me to make anyone crazy custom stuff, including engravings, portraits, and custom ports imagine a port in the shape of anything

ive actually been here since 2009, lurking and ive been competing since 07 i mainly run SS3-4 my last build was a atomic sled nicknamed the q it was 4 15's and 10kw, not some of my cleanest work but ive improved since then i was posting 155's right now my daily driver is a 03 civic lx no exterior mods, couple dings and dents (it was my 89 year old grandmas car) it does have a new engine in it, out of an 09 so i get 35-40mpg ( i blew the old one on a spontaneous vegas trip (long story)) it has 2 RE8's in it on a 80w amp, the 8's are in a T line box, i get people asking me how many 15's i have in it im a mechanical engineering/computer sciences guy i double majored in college ( i have a genius iq, just my spelling sucks because i have dyslexia) some of you have seen my "gearbox cnc" thread, yes i designed that, yes its still a work in progress, and yes i will be selling them when i am satisfied with the design (im a perfectionist with my designs) im also going to be applying for my own vendor section here within a few weeks to sell the cnc's and knockdown boxes and different milled parts anyways glad to be here

i just thought id toss up a quick how to on how to stain wood for boxes all information contained in this how-to is provided as-is i am not responsible for your screwups step 1, supplies for this how to i will be using a few things a can of natural tint watco oil a can of redwood #502 weatherproof wood stain some paper towels (bounty) gloves (nitrile) a 1 inch chip brush and some disposable paper cups (14 oz) and our peice of wood that i am staining is a piece of light grain birch plywood step 2 mix the watco oil and stain together, i like to do a 1:1 mix of oil and stain, the watco oil is a penetrating oil and a varnish in one and the stain is just regular deck stain, pick out your favorite color make sure that you mix them thoroughly as they have different densities and like to separate, step 3 using the 1 inch chip brush and wearing the gloves apply the stain liberally to the wood making sure to watch out for drips and runs, also make sure that you get it into the corners step 4 you should wait about 10-15 seconds after applying the mixture then using the paper towel rub the stain into the wood taking care to rub only WITH the grain NOT against it wipe until you have an even finish over the entire surface, remember edges and cut pieces will be darker than surface areas you will know when to change the papertowel when it starts to be less effective in wiping up the excess stain step 5 repeat step 3 and 4 until desired tint of the wood is acheived extra step for a weathered and distressed look, after completing step 4, sand with 120 grit sand paper in select areas to remove some stain and then reapply, this will cause varying colors and tones giving the overall product a vintage look

see this post is exactaly why i love this fourm over others like $MD or **** because people can say something and get corrected with a minimum amount of flame and hate. the vast amount of knowlage that people have is always expanding and with a minimum amout of hate you learn a a lot just by reading through posts. sorry for my shit spelling my tabley for some reason is not spellchecking

completely incorrect. mounting a tweeter close the mid has both its advantages and disadvantages. the same can be said for mounting the tweeter away from the mid. if you would like to discuss this topic post another thread. enlighten me ...did you even read the word "coaxial" ? I fully agree that its better to put tweeter and mid as close together as possible , but not low in a door ........... that just doesnt make sense to me the beauty of my pods is that they can be mounted wherever you want, low on the door, in the pillars. wherever you want them to be mounted, they are not direct bolt ons for any car, they are ment for people who want to DIY it a bit

my cnc will mainly cut wood and plexi, and ill be able to engrave metal, but not really cut it, i dont have a cooling system built in for cutting metal yet

The cost of a Zenon AB is much lower than D class. Most lower power monos will be AB because they are cheaper to manufacture really? wow i learn something new every day, i usually have only dealt with the lower power AB amps in the past, under 200w per channel, and their cost was higher than the comparable D class apms, 2 or 1 channel

i havent personally messed with the JL or ZED so i cannot pass opinion on them, the ones ive dealt with were in clients cars that they brought to me, one was a legacy, one was an rockwood, no not rockford, and another was an soundstorm and one was a coustic those were the ones i used and i hated them, as i said i was only passing judgement on the ones ive used

i meant in a sheer numbers game, i should have explained myself more if he is looking for power an AB amp is not the best way to go for a subwoofer, AB amps have higher fidelity yes, but the class D have more power, you will end up spending 4-5 times the cost on an AB amp to power a sub than you will on a similar class D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrO5J7TdS7c

im not going to hate or bash not my style, just a few questions was caps lock required? if you think there is a 48 channel amp that is something i want to see, the most ive seen is a 6-8 channel and even those were crap you said that you did the fiberglassing, lets see pics to prove that your not just being a troll

considering that each speaker is 4 ohms, and the aplifier is at best 2 ohm stable, you will need probally 2-3 more amps, 2 more for the mids, and 1 for the subwoofer, its never a good idea to power a subwoofer off a CLass AB amp, Class D is usually the best for power or you could invest in a better quality amplifier like a sundows SAZ 200.4 or a pair of new Atomic 100.4's remember ohms law 4 + 4 in series = 8 ohms 4 + 4 in parallell =2 ohms