Infinitelybaffled

WTF TYPE OF BOX IS THAT? HAHA looks like nothing ive ever seen before...

Here you guys go...Loud as hell! Moves some serious airrrr Another one....Look at that b-pillar! Also I FAIL at camera taking because I had to use my i-pod and in order for it not to be in landscape i have to hold it VERY awkwardly... Jake, expect to hear from me in the near future about some certain things....

Your car does a 150 at 25 hz? hahah I was just talking about that in another thread where I would love to have a build like that.... anyways you should come down in nov. for sure dude! As for SBN I am definitely going next year...its going to be EPIC with all the new builds there...

Haha yeah man isnt the roof flex MUCH worse in person haha! Glad to see you started up your company! Ha il be posting up ALOT more vids for sure.... Mainly for roof flex before and after a SHITLOAD of dampening. + Il also do a few excursion vids or something like that haha im pretty sure the back seats in my car move more than the sub does... Ohh yes it doess now to demo I just turn it up and sit on the roof to stop the rattling....

If I do not care AT ALL what I do on the meter what would you thing is the lowest you can tune in a wall of 2 18' Nightshade V.2 18's? I LOVE the low lows and moving sheet metal/air. I also have about 20 cubes.... probably more if I push it but I dont want to if I dont have to... Thanks. LMK if I need to add more additional info...

Honestly, I was thinking of stuff from like the 25-26 hz range.... Right now my box is tuned to about 29 hz with one NS. V.2 18 and I still desire a lil more low end output...I love Ed Hicks setup peaks at 155.2 db at 25hz with only 9k watts If I could do a 150 at 25hz I would be sooo fuckin happy. 4th order time? Umm, you are already running a 4th order. I'd try a Bandpass personally if I was going to get low again. Terrible idea. Tuning really low and bandpass won't exactly let you play music. By default they are going to pass a small band. And yes, doubling your cone area and power is a much better idea than lowering your tuning. Assuming of course you have enough space. Haha my bad I was saying 4th order as in a 4th order bandpass and forgot that all ported enclosures are also 4th order enclosures... and I guess that is not a very good idea then...

I have a V.2 right now in my car (Great subs BTW). I have 600$ in hand to drop on another sub..... and I actually debated on whether or not to get some 21's but decided against it because the most cost effective thing would to just get another NS V.2 or a third haha.

Nightshade V.2's can take a decent amount of power butt idk about that much lol. I would run a SAZ-4500d or equivalent power to each sub If I end up going all out which it a MAJOR possibility. Is there a possibility of changing subs? Yes, I could change subs but I live like 10 mins from sundown so it is very convenient for me to pick up my subs + I already have 1 18. I could do 3 18's but my port would have to be over the subs all the way across which seems a bit unorthodox to me. I could also do 4 15's.... Then it just comes down to the cost of things lol.

Nightshade V.2's can take a decent amount of power butt idk about that much lol. I would run a SAZ-4500d or equivalent power to each sub If I end up going all out which it a MAJOR possibility.

I'd try a Bandpass personally if I was going to get low again. Although it is 6 18's it is still impressive!...and mad props for getting those numbers on such "little" cone area I would love to have that setup...Since I only have 20 cubes I would have to do a 4th order because of airspace requirements... is that still good for the low lows? Ive been inside a car with a 6th order bandpass with 3 of my subs and it was fuckin awesome and hit the lows exactly how I would want but since space is limited I would have to do this....

Hey thanks guys I guess I have come to the conclusion that I should just keep tuning the same and just double cone area and power and after that think about lowering tuning... Sound about right?

Honestly, I was thinking of stuff from like the 25-26 hz range.... Right now my box is tuned to about 29 hz with one NS. V.2 18 and I still desire a lil more low end output...I love Ed Hicks setup peaks at 155.2 db at 25hz with only 9k watts If I could do a 150 at 25hz I would be sooo fuckin happy. 4th order time? ONLY 9k ? WTF? We build a Standard Cab Ram 1500 with 4 DD 3515" on 3K, that did 154.6 @ 23-29Hz........ Just for you.... haha

I have 100's of chopped and screwed songs that range from 22 (Even 16 EDIT: NINJA'D by bangin GMC that was the song I was referring to) - 28 hz. and yes I do loveee demoing. a peak of 28 would be optimal imo.

Haha! and yeah I realize that the lower I tune the more output I will lose but the real question is how some people peak soooo low...and still get decent numbers. Hanks truck peaks at 30, Icemans at 27, Hicks at 25 hz and DB don with a small peak of over 157 at 28 hz. Im thinking of going the bandpass route now...

Honestly, I was thinking of stuff from like the 25-26 hz range.... Right now my box is tuned to about 29 hz with one NS. V.2 18 and I still desire a lil more low end output...I love Ed Hicks setup peaks at 155.2 db at 25hz with only 9k watts If I could do a 150 at 25hz I would be sooo fuckin happy. 4th order time?

What frequency?

Thats not trunk rattle... Its actually my roof making this TERRIBLE noise it is verrry loud and can be heard loud as hell in my car with the music up and the windows down. God its terrible! And, im going to fix it soon but not too soon. That headliner is a bitch to get out! Yessir I need it BAD but Im waiting on something to happen thats a secret for now haha...

Haha im actually 18 now but I was 17 when I made this build and it was far from my first build and as for the caddy, one day I was in a Harris-Teeter parking lot and I saw the car for sale and I really like it for some reason....it TOTALLY rapes my wallet in gas though... and it has about 12 cubes available in the trunk ... My electrical is holding up decently I have a stinger SPV 70 in the back as well as a bettery in the front and I try to not let voltage dip below 12.7 I also have something like a stock 150 amp alternator so that helps alot... And ya I guess tomorrow I will take a bunch of pics so I can atleast use it as a reference build for when I can afford tools and not have the guys at lowes make SHITTY ass cuts...LOL

Hey thanks guys! The only problem is that I didn't take any pictures during the build and the sub is impossible to see unless I look through the hole I cut in the armrest lol. Also, my install in NOT AT ALL the prettiest of installs (Like total nig rigging of sealing off the trunk, I used towels and jammed them in the open area haha!) but if you guys would like I can definitely post pictures. I must say it is loud as hell to the ear though...It probably won't meter too well considering its tuned in the 28-30 hz range and it SLAMS the lows....WAYYYY more than any other sundown sub I have used... Not bad for a 17 year old if you ask me.

How about a 1997 Caddy seville SLS?

If you want flat response tune low and give it about 2 cubes NET with 24-30 in^2 of port .

Looking at the TL numbers I see that you have some SERIOUS cancellation issues in your car. I would DEFINITELY recommend that you try a different sub/port (Most likley port) placement.

Ok, so I did an install for a friend in his 2009 Honda civic with a Sundown NS V.2 prototype and a sundown SAE-1200D and we have encountered sort of a serious problem. It seems as if there is some sort of a current draw coming from the amp when it is turned off because if he leaves his car off for more than 24 hours the battery is so drained that it can not start the car... The amp is definitely the problem because whenever I take the fuses out of the amp the car works perfect and there is no current draw. The amp also is completely off whenever the car is off (I checked) and is connected to the ACC fuse for the remote turn on since the car has a stock stereo system. I am completely at a loss as to how to fix this...HELP!

I wish it was that easy haha. No, the REM turn on is connected to the ACC (accessory) fuse. The amp turns on and off when you turn the key in the ignition and I have tested that multiple times. That is what baffles me...Even when the amp is "OFF" (Does not have the "Power" light turned on) the battery still dies after about 36 hrs. The only link I have it to connect it to the amp is that this current draw problem does not happen when I pull the fuses out of the amp. Im starting to think that it is just a coincidence and the battery actually dies because he draws too much current when the car is running so when he turns it off the car dies. (Which is what somebody said in one of the above posts) I should probably load test the battery to see if it is ok too. I am fairly sure and I have tested it multiple times haha.

Do you honestly thing that corroded battery terminals or a bad ground could cause unwanted current draw from the amp? I only have a basic understanding in electronics but that does NOT seem right to me haha. I am only 18 and just going to be a senior in high school so I am by farrrrrrrrrrrrrrr a pro from this kind of stuff. I would assume that I am using the wrong fuse or the amp is getting a signal when the car is off or something. Tomorrow (Or today for that matter) I will check with an anmeter to see exactly how much current is being pulled though. Thanks for the help though! For some reason I can't edit my post but I meant using the wrong fuse for the REM wire to turn the amp on BTW. And I will check for the corroded terminals today as well. I highly doubt there is much corrosion though as it is only a 1 year old car and is kept in a garage but I will check anyways.