Jump to content

Infinitelybaffled

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    46

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Infinitelybaffled

  1. Posted

    also if you have a good eye you can notice were i screwed up!

    I read a dimension wrong and actually offset the port by 0.75" so in the end all i had to do was add another piece to the rear of the box and call it a day! lol.

    and also the box is completely resined' up! lol which is why it looks nice and glossy!

    WTF TYPE OF BOX IS THAT? HAHA looks like nothing ive ever seen before...

    0

  2. Posted

    yep yep, dj wants us to come out to a ga show in nov, db drag and nspl. we are built for a diffrent org.... but a 50+ @25hz still draws a crowd i guess :P. and ya that thing flexs like mad! any plans on going to sbn next year to? o ya and crazy ken... i bought my 01 deville @ 18, just gota learn that hustle! lol. ive payed for all 8 of my car/trucks... tbh i usualy make money on buying/selling a car, ill drive them for 6mo to a year and sell for something new

    Your car does a 150 at 25 hz? hahah I was just talking about that in another thread where I would love to have a build like that.... anyways you should come down in nov. for sure dude! As for SBN I am definitely going next year...its going to be EPIC with all the new builds there...

    0

  3. Posted · Edited by Infinitelybaffled

    haha i got to see your caddie when the z.2 was in when i came down from ia, eric got to hear it i was busy talken to jake. glad you like the nsv2 man!

    Haha yeah man isnt the roof flex MUCH worse in person haha! Glad to see you started up your company!

    wow looks like your car is getting liquified! how bout some excursion vids also!

    Ha il be posting up ALOT more vids for sure.... Mainly for roof flex before and after a SHITLOAD of dampening. + Il also do a few excursion vids or something like that haha im pretty sure the back seats in my car move more than the sub does...

    Your roof hates you

    :drink40:

    Ohh yes it doess now to demo I just turn it up and sit on the roof to stop the rattling....

    0

  4. Posted

    I would say 30hz would be plenty low. There is not much music that plays below that and you box is not going to stop at 30 it would play a little below that.

    Honestly, I was thinking of stuff from like the 25-26 hz range.... Right now my box is tuned to about 29 hz with one NS. V.2 18 and I still desire a lil more low end output...I love Ed Hicks setup peaks at 155.2 db at 25hz with only 9k watts If I could do a 150 at 25hz I would be sooo fuckin happy. 4th order time?

    Umm, you are already running a 4th order.

    Hey thanks guys I guess I have come to the conclusion that I should just keep tuning the same and just double cone area and power and after that think about lowering tuning... Sound about right?

    I'd try a Bandpass personally if I was going to get low again. :)

    Terrible idea. Tuning really low and bandpass won't exactly let you play music. By default they are going to pass a small band.

    And yes, doubling your cone area and power is a much better idea than lowering your tuning. Assuming of course you have enough space.

    Haha my bad I was saying 4th order as in a 4th order bandpass and forgot that all ported enclosures are also 4th order enclosures... and I guess that is not a very good idea then...

    0

  5. Posted

    you could always get your shades upgrades, are they v.1 or v.2's?

    I have a V.2 right now in my car (Great subs BTW). I have 600$ in hand to drop on another sub..... and I actually debated on whether or not to get some 21's but decided against it because the most cost effective thing would to just get another NS V.2 or a third haha.

    0

  6. Posted

    If you do a wall i would run a min of 10k, when putting that much work into walling off your ride and only running small power is a waste of time IMHO.

    I'm running about 8k in a S-15 ext cab....

    So if you wall it get that shit moving with 15k!!!!

    Note: i forgot what subs your running lol

    Nightshade V.2's can take a decent amount of power butt idk about that much lol. I would run a SAZ-4500d or equivalent power to each sub If I end up going all out which it a MAJOR possibility.

    Is there a possibility of changing subs?

    Yes, I could change subs but I live like 10 mins from sundown so it is very convenient for me to pick up my subs + I already have 1 18. I could do 3 18's but my port would have to be over the subs all the way across which seems a bit unorthodox to me. I could also do 4 15's.... Then it just comes down to the cost of things lol.

    0

  7. Posted

    If you do a wall i would run a min of 10k, when putting that much work into walling off your ride and only running small power is a waste of time IMHO.

    I'm running about 8k in a S-15 ext cab....

    So if you wall it get that shit moving with 15k!!!!

    Note: i forgot what subs your running lol

    Nightshade V.2's can take a decent amount of power butt idk about that much lol. I would run a SAZ-4500d or equivalent power to each sub If I end up going all out which it a MAJOR possibility.

    0

  8. Posted

    Hey thanks guys I guess I have come to the conclusion that I should just keep tuning the same and just double cone area and power and after that think about lowering tuning... Sound about right?

    I'd try a Bandpass personally if I was going to get low again. :)

    Although it is 6 18's it is still impressive!...and mad props for getting those numbers on such "little" cone area I would love to have that setup...Since I only have 20 cubes I would have to do a 4th order because of airspace requirements... is that still good for the low lows? Ive been inside a car with a 6th order bandpass with 3 of my subs and it was fuckin awesome and hit the lows exactly how I would want but since space is limited I would have to do this....

    0

  10. Posted

    I would say 30hz would be plenty low. There is not much music that plays below that and you box is not going to stop at 30 it would play a little below that.

    Honestly, I was thinking of stuff from like the 25-26 hz range.... Right now my box is tuned to about 29 hz with one NS. V.2 18 and I still desire a lil more low end output...I love Ed Hicks setup peaks at 155.2 db at 25hz with only 9k watts If I could do a 150 at 25hz I would be sooo fuckin happy. 4th order time?

    ONLY 9k ? WTF?

    We build a Standard Cab Ram 1500 with 4 DD 3515" on 3K, that did 154.6 @ 23-29Hz........

    Just for you.... haha

    0

  11. Posted · Edited by Infinitelybaffled

    You are building a box for low hz test tones and you say you have no interest in competing.

    I dont get it.

    What song plays 25hz?

    I have 100's of chopped and screwed songs that range from 22 (Even 16 EDIT: NINJA'D by bangin GMC that was the song I was referring to) - 28 hz. and yes I do loveee demoing. a peak of 28 would be optimal imo.

    0

  12. Posted

    Treat it like any other box. Low of diminishing returns you will hit quickly so don't buy into any hype. Definitely avoid reading any of krypton's nonsense or if you do just realize he has no idea. :P

    Haha! and yeah I realize that the lower I tune the more output I will lose but the real question is how some people peak soooo low...and still get decent numbers. Hanks truck peaks at 30, Icemans at 27, Hicks at 25 hz and DB don with a small peak of over 157 at 28 hz. Im thinking of going the bandpass route now...

    0

  13. Posted

    I would say 30hz would be plenty low. There is not much music that plays below that and you box is not going to stop at 30 it would play a little below that.

    Honestly, I was thinking of stuff from like the 25-26 hz range.... Right now my box is tuned to about 29 hz with one NS. V.2 18 and I still desire a lil more low end output...I love Ed Hicks setup peaks at 155.2 db at 25hz with only 9k watts If I could do a 150 at 25hz I would be sooo fuckin happy. 4th order time?

    0

  14. Posted

    If I do not care AT ALL what I do on the meter what would you thing is the lowest you can tune in a wall of 2 18' Nightshade V.2 18's? I LOVE the low lows and moving sheet metal/air. I also have about 20 cubes.... probably more if I push it but I dont want to if I dont have to... Thanks. LMK if I need to add more additional info...

    0

  16. Posted · Edited by Infinitelybaffled

    That's some nasty trunk rattle. Other then that looking pretty sweet. Get a video of the driver playing :)

    Thats not trunk rattle... Its actually my roof making this TERRIBLE noise it is verrry loud and can be heard loud as hell in my car with the music up and the windows down. God its terrible! And, im going to fix it soon but not too soon. That headliner is a bitch to get out!

    any idea on sound deadener in the future?

    Yessir I need it BAD but Im waiting on something to happen thats a secret for now haha...

    0

  17. Posted

    lol looks like your sun roof is getting raped lol

    and what is a 17year old doing with a caddy?

    and I wonder how your electrical is hold up??

    other then that nice video keep them up and please do take a pic or 2 that way you have something to reference your next build off of. like how bad it was and how much better it is now! know what i mean!

    Haha im actually 18 now but I was 17 when I made this build and it was far from my first build and as for the caddy, one day I was in a Harris-Teeter parking lot and I saw the car for sale and I really like it for some reason....it TOTALLY rapes my wallet in gas though... and it has about 12 cubes available in the trunk :peepwall: ... My electrical is holding up decently I have a stinger SPV 70 in the back as well as a bettery in the front and I try to not let voltage dip below 12.7 I also have something like a stock 150 amp alternator so that helps alot... And ya I guess tomorrow I will take a bunch of pics so I can atleast use it as a reference build for when I can afford tools and not have the guys at lowes make SHITTY ass cuts...LOL

    0

  18. Posted

    Hey thanks guys! The only problem is that I didn't take any pictures during the build and the sub is impossible to see unless I look through the hole I cut in the armrest lol. Also, my install in NOT AT ALL the prettiest of installs (Like total nig rigging of sealing off the trunk, I used towels and jammed them in the open area haha!) but if you guys would like I can definitely post pictures. I must say it is loud as hell to the ear though...It probably won't meter too well considering its tuned in the 28-30 hz range and it SLAMS the lows....WAYYYY more than any other sundown sub I have used... Not bad for a 17 year old if you ask me.

    0

  20. Posted

    Here you guys go...Loud as hell! Moves some serious airrrr

    Another one....Look at that b-pillar!

    Also I FAIL at camera taking because I had to use my i-pod and in order for it not to be in landscape i have to hold it VERY awkwardly...

    Jake, expect to hear from me in the near future about some certain things....

    0

  21. Posted

    If it was me I'd go 1.5-2 cubic feet at 33hz but that is me. It depends on how much space you have and where you like your bass. How do you like your current box's tuning?

    If you want flat response tune low and give it about 2 cubes NET with 24-30 in^2 of port .

    0

  23. Posted · Edited by Infinitelybaffled

    Wait, so is the REM wire connected straight to the battery instead of the remote turn on from the head unit?

    I wish it was that easy haha. No, the REM turn on is connected to the ACC (accessory) fuse. The amp turns on and off when you turn the key in the ignition and I have tested that multiple times. That is what baffles me...Even when the amp is "OFF" (Does not have the "Power" light turned on) the battery still dies after about 36 hrs. The only link I have it to connect it to the amp is that this current draw problem does not happen when I pull the fuses out of the amp. Im starting to think that it is just a coincidence and the battery actually dies because he draws too much current when the car is running so when he turns it off the car dies. (Which is what somebody said in one of the above posts) I should probably load test the battery to see if it is ok too.

    Are you sure you hooked the remote wire to a turn-on/ingnition wire instead of a 12volt constant wire when you tapped into the stock wiring?

    I am fairly sure and I have tested it multiple times haha.

    0

  24. Posted

    Try swapping out the amp to see if that eliminates the battery drain.

    Check the connections on the battery for any corrosion.

    Use the meter to check the voltage with the car off at the amp to see if it's still drawing current.

    Double check the ground at the amp to make sure it is tight and secure.

    Do you honestly thing that corroded battery terminals or a bad ground could cause unwanted current draw from the amp? I only have a basic understanding in electronics but that does NOT seem right to me haha. I am only 18 and just going to be a senior in high school so I am by farrrrrrrrrrrrrrr a pro from this kind of stuff. I would assume that I am using the wrong fuse or the amp is getting a signal when the car is off or something. Tomorrow (Or today for that matter) I will check with an anmeter to see exactly how much current is being pulled though. Thanks for the help though!

    For some reason I can't edit my post but I meant using the wrong fuse for the REM wire to turn the amp on BTW. And I will check for the corroded terminals today as well. I highly doubt there is much corrosion though as it is only a 1 year old car and is kept in a garage but I will check anyways.

    0

  25. Posted

    Try swapping out the amp to see if that eliminates the battery drain.

    Check the connections on the battery for any corrosion.

    Use the meter to check the voltage with the car off at the amp to see if it's still drawing current.

    Double check the ground at the amp to make sure it is tight and secure.

    Do you honestly thing that corroded battery terminals or a bad ground could cause unwanted current draw from the amp? I only have a basic understanding in electronics but that does NOT seem right to me haha. I am only 18 and just going to be a senior in high school so I am by farrrrrrrrrrrrrrr a pro from this kind of stuff. I would assume that I am using the wrong fuse or the amp is getting a signal when the car is off or something. Tomorrow (Or today for that matter) I will check with an anmeter to see exactly how much current is being pulled though. Thanks for the help though!

    0
×