BanginGMC

Bet your score would be better if you took off the green fur, that's a lot of shit stopping airflow.

I think you're going to have the same problem as I do with that sunroof lol I had to tape a garbage bag over it on the inside to trap the water from coming in Especially because my amps are my center console lol When you compete make sure to take that dash carpet thing off

What a tiny fuse on that amp lol

and SMD got mad why?

Yeah, what he said! lol

I connected mine to my sub amp, because that's what i wanted to know the voltage at.

A voltage meter also lets you know if something is wrong, lets you know when to back down and let your batts recharge a minute. If you start your car and the voltage is at 13.5 you know something happened, something bad.. if you didn't have a voltage meter, you wouldn't know. It'll let you know if your batterie(s) took a shit due to manufacture defect. If your going to spend thousands on an system, and try to save money by not getting a 20 dollar voltage meter, that is just plain fail.

Meh. I'd rather have an oil pressure gauge and a few other gauges first. And just like oil pressure "should" always be in range when your car is setup right, your voltage should be as well when you build a system otherwise you should fix that problem. Well I dunno, maybe everyone can't afford to do everything perfect the first time? He has a plan. What's so wrong about having a voltage meter? I mean if we're thinking like that then you know your engine is in pretty good shape right? Well then just go ahead and disconnect all of your gauges then because you know it's done right correct? So just like you said you shouldn't have to monitor it right? There's nothing at all wrong with watching your voltage. Every proffesional setup has a meter no matter what they have invested because it's a good idea, plain and simple. In the end he's going to get his setup done correctly and then he can sit back and watch his voltage stay nice and steady with a smile. x1000000000000000 and i'm sure 95% of the people here will agree as well, having a voltage meter in your car is a very nice tool.

Does it play music for 1 second then stop playing music every time you reset the head unit or turn the car on?

What do you usually pay for your town cars? We have this city that only retired people can live in, thats where 95% of the lincolns are and when they sell them.... they aren't cheap! 01s start at 10k

why is there a need for pic's? all i have in my truck right now is a orion hcca 12 in a small S**T ported box. and i cant make a video without a amp lol. my amp is soposed to be here tomorrow so as soon as i get it, ill shoot a video for yall. Hes addicted to speaker porn

I can assure you a Sundown SAZ-1500d is more efficient then your Hifonics Brutus

I would rather deaden my truck with duck tape then peal n seal. Here's a hint kid, cheap and car audio never go together well.

Too bad they didn't send you an 18 lol

I was driving legally at the age of 14 in Detroit, MI. On topic: I had an amp tested locally and it was in fact broken.. I sent it back to the manufacture, they claimed it worked perfect.. sent the amp back to me and it work perfect. Just because someone runs a business does not mean they don't lie in favor of the company.

As soon as he gets his truck fixed he'll be back at 1st place in no time. Those 18's are no fuckin' joke!

Dr Boom needs a much more efficient enclosure.

DC Power, I have a 320 amp alternator, I haven't clamped it yet but I will very soon. Would you agree that if I fused the positive run connecting the alternator and battery with a 300 amp fuse that it would blow once the alternator is reaching high rpms? If it wouldn't blow then would you agree that the alternator is actually overrated?

Thanks for the input guys, cleared some things up for me Alton, I'm pretty sure i'm capable of pulling 320 amps with the system i'm running. I didn't know once the alternator heats up its output is reduced. Once I get some time i'm going to do a lot of testing with this alternator.

The test thread I posted is probably as close of an answer as you'll get -- once wired to a sub-woofer power will vary dramatically based on frequency and enclosure. Okay I'll go check that thread out real quick.

I'm aware that each SAZ-3500 might have a slight difference in power but.. Generally, what would the output be at 1ohm while at 13.5v? I'm also interested in knowing the same information with the current SAZ-4500D.

I'm going too, I wanted to know this information so I can compare it to what I'm doing, thats why I started this thread.

If your referring to the same thread as on here, the 3500 isn't one of the amplifiers being tested.

If its fried, it will look fried.