mr.sagat

I started on a new wall for my z car today, I got a decent amount of progress done, and hope to finish tomorrow if the weather is right. The subs are Lanzar optidrive 1532 15" subs. This wall is 8.3 cubes with 120 inches of port, tuned to 39 hz.. The box hopefulyly will peak at 44-45 hz. The last time I checked my RF was 43 hz. The whole box will be 1.5 inches thick when completed.

I think I'm going to breakdown and get my hands on a Crescendo soon. I think old planet audio amps used to do rated. On newer models, I don't know.... it's like they've fallen off the map where I live...

It's not the straight up best or anything, but that amp is very well suited for you. I know some people get away with giving s15l7's over 1000 daily with no problems, but for the average street system, the 750 will do great....

I was thinking there might be a couple of other reasons you are missing your lows. One of them is that your running less cone area, the other is that the f3 of your past sealed enclosure is lower than the f3 of your ported enclosure. So, I'm guessing around 27hz and lower, your old sealed setup doesn't lose output as fast as your ported setup does. You said you don't have a subsonic filter, so you are probably playing some serious low frequencies on certain songs... Just like ported is usually louder than a comparable sealed setup, the sealed setup will usually have a flatter output curve and will usually drop lower than a ported enclosures. I know true home audiophiles sometimes dabble with huge sealed enclosures and I'm guessing great and clean low end extension is why...

It's not really fair comparing the low end extension of a new sub versus one that is broken in...give the Dcon some time and her fs will drop to rated parameters...

good score....

I'm sure that 18 will get down with very little power. But, that being said, the 15's will have more flexibility in terms of future installs in different vehicles, voice coil configs and selling them locally in the future. Most people aren't too familiar with Dayton subs, I know they're good (I've wanted a Titanic forever) but those Powerbass's will be a easier sell to the average guy if you ever choose to do so.

What's your limit of speaker size??? Here's a pair of 15's and a amp that falls into your range. This setup will have more cone area than the 18 and the amp is stronger and still CEA certified... http://www.vminnovations.com/product_4263/Soundstream_PCX2_540_540W_2_Channel_Amplifier.html PowerBass PB-C156Dv.2 (pbc156dv2) - 15" Subwoofers - Sonic Electronix two 15's and the soundstream would run you $220 shipped...

You got a hot chick that will help you with audio? That's God tier bro.... My last one was scared to death of holding the mdf while I made cuts...

That's crazy. It has to be some type of low resistance battery and cap hybrid I would figure. I don't trust things like that, but I've never tried one. I wonder how long it takes to charge and discharge. I do remember there was a spl oriented amp a long time ago called the "drag queen" That stored huge amounts of power. The amp was eventually banned from competition. This was a 10,000 watt amp (20,000 WATT BURST) in 2000, so SHE WAS A MONSTER OF EPIC PROPORTIONS Harrison Labs 10,000watt "Drag Queen" amp, anyone using this ? - CARSOUND.COM Forum

I was simply posting how easy it is to claim someone elses numbers to prove a point. Really? I never would of guessed that.... Your imaginary setup just reminded me of real numbers with low tier setups, that's all. I wasn't acknowledging your setup it in my post

Everyone and their mom knows about it, but it still blows my mind how 13 6x9's hit a 169.

it is wired down to 1 ohm.. What ohm is your woofer? Real talk, WTF.....

Put tape on the backside of the foam, then rubber cement it from the front. After it dries take off the tape. Superglue stiffens up the foam too much. My adire audio shivas were banged up with random holes and rubber cement worked better than anything else I tried...

I'm confused with the team name. The team is called decent, like average, so-so The word descent,has the definition of attack or appearance (Sudden disconcerting appearance) imo Descent is a sick team name. I don't know which the team implies but your team is loud as hell either way

That rubicon at one ohm should be drawing over 200 amps. On a system with only wire upgrades your gonna get wrecked. You need a battery to back that amp up. My a3000db's have a similar board and I would say that they get warm @ 1 ohm, but nothing to worry about. So, some heat from that amp is normal...

What amp are you running, and how hot does it get? Is it warm, or is it hot enough that it's uncomfortable to touch?

I don't really know. I get most of my stuff from gifbin, here's the link with a cool korean race queen. Sexy auto show model | Best Funny Gifs and Animated Pics Updated Daily - Gif Bin

she's fixing to be 18 in like a month, so it's all good...

I would DVR it, but Disney shows repeats all the time

I ground at the strut tower because it is the best way. It's all good bro. Since you're out of junior high for the summer, did you watch Wizards of Waverly Place today? Selena Gomez was on point like always

Ground the amp to the rear battery and if you can run that to the strut tower. Jon, I would really like to hear your rebuttal as to why the strut tower is not a good place for a ground. These are some of my reasons as to why I believe it's superior. 1. You are getting a more solid connection because that part of a unibody is of a thicker gauge metal than random places in the rear. Thin metal, or thick, I wonder which one is preferred??? 2. A 3/8 inch ring terminal on a strut tower is a million times less likely to break loose than using some stock number 10 screw on the body. 3. You don't have to worry about some newbie ruining his gas tank by carelessly drilling and tapping screws in the trunk. Please don't let your rebuttal include anything about wire length. That is a moot point when the length may only increased by a foot or two, and is negated by the superior ground location. I kinda know what I'm talking about. I got multiple ASE certifications, and for a living I'm a DC electrician on ships and am extremely close to getting my first ABYC certification. Here's a control panel I did with circuit breakers and starter switches.... but I'm sure you got credentials too my friend....

They have to be pretty legit. They have almost 200,000 feedbacks on ebay and over 99 percent positive...

Yeah, some ups workers have no respect for packages. I've got 2 15's in a few years ago, and the mdf boxes were broken in the corners and the baskets were broken on the subs. Nice to know Scott got you covered. Great customer service, thats what's up

I use bassbox pro 6. I think I'm the only one on this forum that likes it though