An-i-no

Have...to...save...money....for....black friday! Must resist lol

Hmmm...may have to start selling extra stuff... I missed out on last year's sale.

Cept the culture of CAPITALISM! I mean...we don't want to be SOCIALISTS do we? That's almost COMMUNISM!

Unfortunately that requires that you assume that without a shadow of a doubt that your more expensive "quality" product will not fail and also that the less expensive "shitty" product WILL fail. So...if your "quality" product does not fail, and neither does the "shitty" product in fact fail then...geez you'll feel like a jackass. Hell, if both the "quality" and "shitty" product both break, you'll still feel like a jackass. God forbid your "quality" product should fail and the "shitty" product last...that would be a shame, wouldn't it? Moral of the story: Price indicates next to NOTHING about a product. Also, take care of your stuff, no matter how "quality" you feel like it is, or you might just end up feeling like a jackass.

So I'm trying this whole active thing out with drivers I had laying around. I was actually pretty impressed how the random drivers sounded so I figured I could spend some money on stuff. But before I purchase, I keep seeing people saying that to make a certain driver sound good it needs a "notch filter" to smooth out the response. I researched and now I know exactly what it means, but I don't want to build one (mostly because I have no clue how to do that) so I was thinking...and I realized that they're using the notch filters for the same thing we use an EQ for in a car...right? I can smooth out the response pretty well (or I can pony up and buy equipment that can) electronically...so there's no need to do it physically, right?

Yep. I'm waist deep in it already lol. The mids/midbasses I chose for my 2 way sound like ass when I crossed them where I wanted to (2500+). Not only that, but they were really expensive. Not only THAT, but I damaged one, so I can't get nearly what I paid back for them. I figured they'd be worth more as speakers than as money at this point. They're wonderful for midbass though. So I have that down. That sounds like some ish I don't want to do. EQ it is!

China is cool too tho.

Wellllll, I was just browsing through drivers to play from 400-up to wherever I cross my tweeter (so 3500-4000) and in the reviews I kept reading "a notch filter at XXXXhz will tame this/that/whathaveyou," and it wasn't one driver, it was all over the place whether it be full ranges, 5", 6", 7" it was everywhere. So maybe I was just over thinking it. I agree though I'll stay away from drivers with nasty cone breakup/resonance (is that the same thing? Cone breakup and cone resonance?) issues. Whether you are doing it actively or passively, digitally or analog, it's still electronic. I'm not sure what you mean by doing it "physically", though I'm guessing you meant doing it passively. "Physically" would be a whole 'nother can of worms. As M5 said, generally a notch filter is used to tame a cone breakup that occurs either within the passband or just past the crossover point if the break up is severe. I think the first question should be why you think you need a notch filter. Well..like I said it was everywhere on Parts-Express and Madisound. And oops. By physically I meant by using inductors and capacitors to affect what the woofer plays, but you're right, passively was the word I was looking for. Thanks all.

250 SHIPPED! Need these out of my life!

It's already been said...BUT! The items with free shipping have shipping included in the cost of the item. You pay it one way or another.

yessir That sucks ass. Honestly I'd probably cut that up, but don't go doing stupid things for bass that will hurt your trade-in value (unless you own an old beater like I do).

Is that bottom pic the only way air can get into the cabin from the trunk?

Thank you, I will be testing the drivers and crossovers individually today. If the mid is blown I will most likely be getting another 2 channel and going the active route.I am currently under the assumption that the 80prs is the best active capable head unit sub $400, is this assumption correct? Do the new units still have the pico fuse issues? IDK if the pico fuse issue is stil around but mine didn't give me any trouble until I hot-swapped RCA's like an r-tard. So I would say just make sure the HU is off when switching RCA's (and definitely don't base your purchase off of an issue that is completely avoidable).

Damn...I don't think anything else needs to be said. Well, on a BS/Silver-lining type of thought, you have a legitimate reason to upgrade now?

IMO, the SA series in general is one of the most established and proven subs in their class. Does that make the GCON any less awesome? Nope, but you won't be able to find half the info you can find on an SA-12. It's been around longer, and it's been in more SPL setups so...yeah. If he goes with the GCONs it will pretty much be uncharted territory.

I have a UPS hookup. $20 a piece anywhere in the 48. With that said, I got a ticket today, 300 SHIPPED!

280+ Shipping! Willing to make a deal!

Here's one of them on the right.

130 + shipping or 150 shipped, whichever is less really. (Unless you live in like...Maine lol)

Would you be willing to buy back the SA-12 you sold me forever ago?

Underrated enough to take all the power I can get out of my Crescendo BC2000 and not melt (or even heat up really) after about an hour of hard play. For marketing mostly. Build a 1000 watt woofer, slap a 600watt sticker on it, and watch as people are amazed when it doesn't explode when you use a 2000 watt amp on a pair. Seriously tho, I'm just trying to sell my subs guys.

Strapped at 1.5 so .75 each on the 5500's. If the one can take .67 daily then you should have no problems running two...Damn I can't wait to be loud...

The ground path goes through the RCA's to the amp's ground. Some amps will even try to ground through RCA's (by going through the H/U ground) if they are turned on without a ground hooked up and f up the head unit.

Mine was 3.5 @ 28 and played to ~24 before I started to lose authority (or maybe my hearing dropped off after that), and it was killer on the lows. What frequencies are you trying to play that you can't?

Hmm...these look really good.