An-i-no

It's funny because...my manager's kinda shady and I figured he'd give me the raise and start hurrying me off the clock but to my surprise I actually got more than scheduled hours the last two weeks. Oh and again!! Thanks guys

Hmmmm...I have the x794 and I love it...I'm using an external amp though but I will say it did get hot sometimes, to where I could feel it on the back of the faceplate when I took it off, but I have since switched off the internal amp in the settings. You should try to turn off the RCA outs (in...like Initial Setup or something like that. I'll get back to you) if you're not using them and see if it runs cooler. Also try turning off the AUX out if you're not using it.

What the hell!?!??!?! So if you own a Chevy with 6x9's and a factory alarm then what? If you own a ford with 6x8's all around then what? This isn't even going after ANYTHING HARMFUL!!?? What problem does this solve? Is that guy serious? Bass causes NAUSEA? Good GOD DAMN! I wanna go to Hawaii where people drive by with beat so loud it'll make you puke at 3am! EDIT: " It affects them they can feel it, it keeps them awake causes them nausea gives them a headache, we got to control it. It's out of control! " said Oshiro We shoulda got this in a Steve Meade vid. It would've spread like crazy.

Oh fuck no. Not when I'm this close to finishing my build uh uh hell no. Shit, Texas would scoop this up and all hell would break loose... "This bill is unbelievable. Plenty of people make a hobby as well as a LIVING out of Car Audio. What kind of sense does it make to put companies in the dirt and destroy the livelihood of people who are gifted with technical genius and have such passion in their field? How fair is that? What happens to freedom of speech? What happens to freedom of expression? If this should pass and spread to other states it will be the death of an industry and with the slim pickings of today's economy what sense does that make?" Bitches.

Word. Thanks alot Mr. Sundownz

Hello SSA, I was pulling my woofers out to look at like I do every once in awhile since they aren't installed yet, and I noticed (not for the first time, but was reminded) that one has the cooling ring with "Sundown Audio" incribed and the other does not. (It has three holes which I assume are for the same purpose) I was wondering if that would cause problems later down the road or if it significantly affects power handling? I've been meaning to Email Jacob but haven't gotten to it, and I know that'll probably be everyone's answer but I just wanted to ask here. Thanks in advance. EDIT: A little background info. One was bought sometime in...October I think from Woofersetc.com's ebay page during the "Great SA-Shortage" as I have dubbed it, between the time that the upgrades and SA-15's were being built/developed if anyone remembers. The second I got just a month ago from S.DeYoung on the classifieds here. The one WITH the cooling ring reads "Tested 12-10-10" The one WITHOUT reads "Tested 9-15-10" if that means anything.

I am in no way of use to you in box design but damn that was a great post lol.

i do i run 2 kicker kx2500.1 will that be to much for 1 sub and i have a old vlx-400 witch would be better for 1 btl Why in the hell would you put (potentially) 5000 watts to a single BTL? For "Headroom?" That's like a college kid looking for a 3 bedroom 2 bathroom house for him and his gf? Nice, yes? Possible, sure? But dumb as a mofo.

I mean no harm...but that's super crazy vague. You could want a "competition-only" burp box tuned to 51 hertz or a crazy "subsonic blaster" tuned to 24 hertz. You could want a good ol "daily" box tuned to 33 hertz, or even a really dope box with switchable ports with one tuned high for competition and one tuned low for daily? How would anyone know? You might need to box to be in a certain shape for your trunk or with the ports a certain way. Heck, I don't even know if you want a ported box even? I'm just assuming because hardly anybody seals a woofer anymore. My point is, no one is going to help you because no one knows what you want. We know you want a box for a 15 inch Nightshade v2. I could design a rectangle with a hole to put the woofer in and would you be happy? Think if you worked in a fast food joint and someone came in and asked for some food. You'd be like wtf right?

Has anyone here ever owned or had experience with a Powerbass amp? I was looking at this and it looks to be a little powerhouse and they're claiming to be super efficient which would be a real plus since I'm looking to keep my stock alt. Any feedback is appreciated.

I'm insulted Shogen! Do I come across as that slow lol??? Anyway he said "New" as in "just released" which is why I'm intrigued...I see that the site is new (the old one sucked huge monkey balls) but did the amps get some kind of secret upgrades or remodeling?

Too lazy to quote sorry. What do you mean by "New Aq's?"

Lol then pay for a woofer that's meant to take that kind of power. Yes, it's a beefy, ballsy speaker but they were rated at 600 for a reason. If they were meant to be fed 1500+ or even 1000 they would be rated higher. Yes headroom is awesome and will make your amp run cooler and whatnot but just think about it this way. 1. You have a heat glove. It's made to withstand six 100 watt lightbulbs. 2. It's a nice heat glove so you trust it to protect you against about 7-8 lightbulbs. 3. Now take those 7 lightbulbs, double them. Add three more for the hell of it. 4. See if you don't burn the living shit outta your hand. That's what you're trying to do to the SA-15

Parts Express? Sorry no link, just guessing.

but your name is SPL Man??? Anyway, driving is bad for the ozone layer, soda is bad for my kidneys, most foods are bad for me in some way but none of that stops me from enjoying it.

Alright guys, I'm about to get a whole lot of xmas money with it being my last xmas at home (senior in high school) so I want a really nice front stage. They will be getting no less than 125wrms and mounted in the doors of my explorer with plenty of SDS,. I'll go as high as 400 bucks. I do have a pair of Pre-2008 Hertz HSK-165's in the box that I'll probably throw in the rear (i know, not fair.) and I'm currenty looking at the newest HSK-165's or RE Audio XXX components. I mainly just want you guys to throw some names out there so I can go do some research. Any hands on experience or reviews would be greatly appreciated. My subs will be 2 Sundown SA-12's ported LOW (27-28) getting 1200wrms so I want some mids that can play in the high 60's so that I can cross the subs lower. Tweet should be smooth and detailed. (Puts on flame suit) Thanks in advance.

Someone explained it to me this way. When a sub is tuned low (or...not even) it will have the least excursion at it's tuning freq (hmmm...or was it resonant freq? one of the two), but it will aslo be at the highest impedance at that time. The sub will move most just above it's tuning freq and of course below it. HOWEVER, when a sub plays notes that are pretty high above it's tuning frequency, it won't move as much, AND the impedance that the amp sees won't be nearly as high as the tuning/resonant freq and heat will build up across the coil very quicky as the sub's cooling abilities have been cut off considerably. Granted, that could be total bs, but it makes sense in my head and makes me wanna cross my mids lower so I can cross my sub at 50. This is the link that turned everything around for me. Just take a quick look. And I understand what you mean about there being too many variables but the good usually said "Hertz quality, can't go wrong. Tweet can be a bit harsh but eq-able." All I see there is "harsh tweet, you need to fix it." The critical ones (because there weren't really any bad) said "Tweet is xover'd too low and is harsh sometimes." Did that scare me? No. The CONSISTENCY scared me. If people across a range of good and bad ears and installs agree on something, what is the lowest common denominator? Do I think the Hertz are a bad set of speakers? By no means? It's just that the general consensus is that there are better sets out now. They stopped MAKING them in 2008, and even then they were an aging set. My point is, I can do better! Oh and Clarus prices give me nosebleeds maybe one day I will upgrade.

I wish I could find the vid of the Imagines again. It was on photobucket. They played crazy strong and low like into the low 50's high 40's and I fell in love. I just want something that's smooth and that I can cross at 60-ish because my sub will be tuned so low. The Imagines are lookin to be that and more and just perfect for what I want. I'll will DEFINITELY do a review when I get my hands on them.

Who cares what other people think about those speakers, how does it sound to you? What kind of amp you have on them, where are they installed? Well they're still in the box, as I don't have an amp to give them a decent amount of power. And not to be an ass in any way, but not caring is sort of blind ignorance if you ask me...? Most of my intentions involved asking people for opinions on things I considered purchasing when I signed up for the forum so why would I ask for thoughts and advice and then ignore it...? I could care less about brand names and prices because blanket statements get caught up in that. A lot of times I see "well they're Hertz, they were made in Italy! They're some of the best sound quality speakers you can get" but what does that really mean? That because of the name I should pay more money because they're "Some of the best?" Methinks not. When I did further research about that particular set of speakers I kept reading about the xover point being too low for the tweeter resulting in harshness, which is a logical argument to me? Much more logical than top brand blanket statements. Hell, I'll be honest and say I've never even heard a decent set of comps and that I could instantly fall in love with the Hertz, but now that I'm aware of the problems with the set, why wouldn't I want something better? EDIT: Damn man, that's gonna look like a straight up rant...hmmmm oh well.

LOL sorry guys I had kinda abandoned the thread when I found THESE! So thanks everyone for their help, and unless I call AA and they want less than 219 for the entire Carbon set then I'll most likely go with the Imagines. To anyone who is wondering, the reason I don't want to run the Hertz up front is because I did tons and tons of research on them and always came up with the same comments (Decent midbass, Tweeter is crossed too low and gets harsh, Updated set is 100x better) over and over and over and I didn't want to run into the same problems I had read about. Normally I would take my chances, but seeing people agree on something other than "Pure trash, they suck" or "awesome! so smooth and detailed!! etc." is not very common in this hobby and when it does happen I don't wanna take my chance on something as important as my front stage. Thanks though guys.

Yeah, I'm considering the audioque as well. How do you like your DB Drive amp? When I was shopping some of their stuff was so cheap it seemed like crap lol. What do you guys think of the Soundstream RUB1.1600? It's reaaaaaaaal cheap....Soundstream amps usually make rated power so durability is all i'd be worried about. And as for that Powerbass XA-1500, I did a little google search and found that alot of people were returning those for warranty service and a lot of people hated them. Even though it was just one link to some forum I can't remember, that's odds I'd rather not play against.

Ok, I have never owned an amp w/o on-board fuses. I understand that fuses are necessary, but I am a bit confused about just how they are installed and WHY they are necessary. I'll probably purchase an amp kit that comes with an in-line fuse. I understand that this is to protect the battery in the event of...hell idk, I just know it's to keep shit from catching on fire. Now further down the line, the two amps I have have on-board fuses to protect themselves in the event that they should draw more current than they need/can handle. (Not quite sure about that either. I know that fuses usually pop when too much juice passes through them.) Now...I've been avoiding this by limiting myself to amps that have on-board fuses, but with the release of the fuse-less SAZ-1500d (and the rising-ass Sundown prices! I totally had that 1200d when it was 315 and now it's 395 n shit. Crushing my dreams Jacob ) I want to get a clear understanding of how this works. There is a fuse near the battery to keep fires away. There is another fuse down the line that keeps the amp in check. But...if the amp draws too much current would both fuses pop? would the battery fuse be of a higher rating to prevent this? Doesn't that kinda defeat the purpose of having it in the first place? Or am I wrong and is there just one fuse involved? Someone help

MAN! Everywhere I go they sleep on my boy Nickelus F. Go to his blog and download Season Premiere. The song "All Lat" beats plenty. My link And yeah, you can't understand half of what he's sayin but in some songs Gucci does do a nice job of sticking to the beat...and plus all his beats are the shit! My link

I was hoping to mount everything in stock locations in the door using mdf mounting rings. My fab skills are slim to none as I have very little free time and tools. I will check AA out. Hmmm...I did slightly figure that. But hey, I figure an upgrade is an upgrade. I already have my woofers picked out, the box plans modeled in RE's box calculator, headunit picked and installed and for the most part my amps picked. The front stage is the only real thing I know I'm willing to sink a few extra bucks into. I did, and the ones I saw didn't particularly catch my attention. Thanks for the replies guys, keep em coming.

So I'm planning on running one run of zero gauge from the batt to a distro block (Like the Kicker PDK1 if anyone feels like looking) so that I don't have to drill two holes in my firewall. But the SAX1200D just shot up from 315 to 375, (just outta my price range) so I'm gonna get a refurbished SAZ1500D from DB-r. My question is, since the distro block is going to be 0ga in and 4ga out, can I run two runs of 4 ga to the 1500D (as my other amp will be an SAX125.2) and feed the it the current it needs? Or will it not be enough and possibly overload my one run of 0ga? (it'd be a decent 0ga wire too, btw. Like Stinger or maybe Kicker)