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Posts posted by An-i-no

  1. You pay for quality. When you buy quality, over time it'll break even or actually be cheaper than having to buy multiple shitty products.

    Unfortunately that requires that you assume that without a shadow of a doubt that your more expensive "quality" product will not fail and also that the less expensive "shitty" product WILL fail.

    So...if your "quality" product does not fail, and neither does the "shitty" product in fact fail then...geez you'll feel like a jackass. Hell, if both the "quality" and "shitty" product both break, you'll still feel like a jackass. God forbid your "quality" product should fail and the "shitty" product last...that would be a shame, wouldn't it?

    Moral of the story: Price indicates next to NOTHING about a product. Also, take care of your stuff, no matter how "quality" you feel like it is, or you might just end up feeling like a jackass.

  2. There is a huge difference in running a full range driver full range and only using part of the range. Where you read the need for a notch was to address breakup...so to avoid it don't pick a driver that has breakup in the range you will be playing it. smile.png

    400-3500Hz?? Really? I assume you are attempting a 3 way, but if you've never run active I'd highly encourage against that in the first round. 2 way is your friend.

    Yep. I'm waist deep in it already lol. The mids/midbasses I chose for my 2 way sound like ass when I crossed them where I wanted to (2500+).

    Not only that, but they were really expensive.

    Not only THAT, but I damaged one, so I can't get nearly what I paid back for them. I figured they'd be worth more as speakers than as money at this point.

    They're wonderful for midbass though. So I have that down.

    A notch filter would be beneficial if you had a peak somewhere that needed to be tamed. But, you would need to know exactly where this peak was (with test equipment) and measure again to see if the filter you designed actually hit the peak.

    I have used notch filters for decades with passive crossovers. They are designed into the circuit when there is a an audible peak. Normally the filter has to be very precise (like taking an inductor and removing a few windings until it measures exact) to even work right. Additionally, I have to use acoustic measuring before and after. In other words, a lot of technical crap.

    Most of the time if you go active and have some sort of processing (eq) you can deal with these problems much easier thna doing it in the passive realm after the last amplification stage...

    That sounds like some ish I don't want to do. EQ it is!

  3. Not sure where and why you've read you need a notch filter....unless of course you are looking at exotic cones with uber nasty breakup modes. If that's the case you should stop and use something else to run active first.

    Electronically it is rather easy IF you have a processor that allows it.

    Wellllll, I was just browsing through drivers to play from 400-up to wherever I cross my tweeter (so 3500-4000) and in the reviews I kept reading "a notch filter at XXXXhz will tame this/that/whathaveyou," and it wasn't one driver, it was all over the place whether it be full ranges, 5", 6", 7" it was everywhere. So maybe I was just over thinking it. I agree though I'll stay away from drivers with nasty cone breakup/resonance (is that the same thing? Cone breakup and cone resonance?) issues.

    I can smooth out the response pretty well (or I can pony up and buy equipment that can) electronically...so there's no need to do it physically, right?

    Whether you are doing it actively or passively, digitally or analog, it's still electronic. I'm not sure what you mean by doing it "physically", though I'm guessing you meant doing it passively. "Physically" would be a whole 'nother can of worms.

    As M5 said, generally a notch filter is used to tame a cone breakup that occurs either within the passband or just past the crossover point if the break up is severe.

    I think the first question should be why you think you need a notch filter.

    Well..like I said it was everywhere on Parts-Express and Madisound.

    And oops. By physically I meant by using inductors and capacitors to affect what the woofer plays, but you're right, passively was the word I was looking for.

    Thanks all.

  4. So I'm trying this whole active thing out with drivers I had laying around. I was actually pretty impressed how the random drivers sounded so I figured I could spend some money on stuff.

    But before I purchase, I keep seeing people saying that to make a certain driver sound good it needs a "notch filter" to smooth out the response. I researched and now I know exactly what it means, but I don't want to build one (mostly because I have no clue how to do that) so I was thinking...and I realized that they're using the notch filters for the same thing we use an EQ for in a car...right?

    I can smooth out the response pretty well (or I can pony up and buy equipment that can) electronically...so there's no need to do it physically, right?

  5. Is that bottom pic the only way air can get into the cabin from the trunk?


    That sucks ass. Honestly I'd probably cut that up, but don't go doing stupid things for bass that will hurt your trade-in value (unless you own an old beater like I do).

  6. If the mid for some reason isn't blown, let me know. I have a set of those tweeters that are pretty much sitting in a box.

    Thank you, I will be testing the drivers and crossovers individually today. If the mid is blown I will most likely be getting another 2 channel and going the active route.

    I am currently under the assumption that the 80prs is the best active capable head unit sub $400, is this assumption correct? Do the new units still have the pico fuse issues?

    IDK if the pico fuse issue is stil around but mine didn't give me any trouble until I hot-swapped RCA's like an r-tard. So I would say just make sure the HU is off when switching RCA's (and definitely don't base your purchase off of an issue that is completely avoidable).

  7. IMO, the SA series in general is one of the most established and proven subs in their class.

    Does that make the GCON any less awesome? Nope, but you won't be able to find half the info you can find on an SA-12. It's been around longer, and it's been in more SPL setups so...yeah. If he goes with the GCONs it will pretty much be uncharted territory.

  8. Underrated enough to take all the power I can get out of my Crescendo BC2000 and not melt (or even heat up really) after about an hour of hard play.

    For marketing mostly. Build a 1000 watt woofer, slap a 600watt sticker on it, and watch as people are amazed when it doesn't explode when you use a 2000 watt amp on a pair.

    Seriously tho, I'm just trying to sell my subs guys.

  9. I have two Sundown Audio SA-12's with Dual 4 ohm voice coils. One has the cooling ring and the other has the holes drilled in the basket but I've never had any issues with running them together. Jacob himself said it wouldn't be an issue.

    They are rated at 600wrms (underrated).

    The one with the cooling ring is PERFECT, 10/10.

    The other has a small scuff that doesn't affect anything but looks, 8/10

    I'm looking to get 290+ Shipping to you. I can get them shipped for pretty cheap so it should come out to around 330 even.

    Can't post the pics from my phone but they're on my Photobucket here.


  10. The box is roughly 4 cubes tuned to 34 hz. So your saying the box isn't tuned low enough?

    Mine was 3.5 @ 28 and played to ~24 before I started to lose authority (or maybe my hearing dropped off after that), and it was killer on the lows. What frequencies are you trying to play that you can't?