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An-i-no

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Posts posted by An-i-no


  1. From what ive read, CCA can support up to 300 amps of current (depending on length) and pure copper wire can handle 350+ amps (of course depending on length). The CCA is good stuff I've used it with no problem, and Im also now using 2/0 of welding wire. Flexibility is about the same, however the welding cable is much easier to work with it since it is true Awg and not oversized to compensate for the lack of copper, Aka it fits into terminals/fuse blocks easier IMO.

    This.

    CCA has to be oversized to be able to carry the same amount of current as Copper. That's just physics. Copper is a better conductor. Sure CCA wire can do the same job as OFC but there's a reason that OFC is more common than CCA. It's a better conductor period. If CCA was thought to be a true substitute for OFC then it would be just that, but instead it's a lesser product. It costs less, it's less effective. You may not HEAR the difference but does that mean it's there? I may not hear the difference between 140amps through 4 gauge and 180 amps through 0 gauge but does that mean the 0 gauge isn't better wire?

    Not EVERYTHING boils down to "you won't hear a difference so it doesn't matter."


  2. I have no part of this argument but wtf Redneck? When did it become a good idea to argue with the guy about lawsuits? He came to inform people that the info that was being passed around was potentially dangerous to the vehicle. Now...how did that incite an argumentative response on your part?


  3. what is wrong with people still not realizing that the "N" word is not always a negative word... Growing up in the Bronx that word was used like the word "yo" ... I am still not afraid to say it but I've grown up and the people I grew up with are no longer around me and I also speak very different from how I used to.... I just don't see the point in it since most of my friends now are either asian or spanish ... Just how it is... Just saying... No debate needed ... plus I love eggy.... so I'll side with him superficially.... lol

    Apply for a job somewhere and greet the interviewer with "What up my nigger".

    Lol let's please not start this argument. That logic is soooooo slanted. Of course you wouldn't say it in that situation. The situation is that he thinks a black guy stole his car. Now lets go over some facts.

    He's young.

    He's put lots of time/effort and money into this car. He loves it.

    It's fuckin gone now. Completely gone.

    Once again, he thinks a black guy stole it.

    Who's surprised that the N-word slipped out? Not me. No one should be. He even apologized right after he said it? What else can you ask for? He screwed up and admitted it, let's move on.

    EDIT: And I'm NOT saying it's cool that he said it. Just to clarify.


  4. Personally if it were a large amount of current I would split it up to distribute the current and the heat. Depending on how everything is designed internally, it's possible you could end up burning things up inside by pulling all of the current through a single terminal. On the other hand, if the multiple inputs are more for "looks" and they are all fed through a single wire/trace on the inside of the board it might end up working fine.

    So.....it really depends on the specific circumstances. But if you could split them up, that would be the safest route. And it might possible be the only route depending the design of the amp.

    Hey Impious...you wouldn't happen to know how the hell I'm supposed to fuse it would you?


  5. Personally if it were a large amount of current I would split it up to distribute the current and the heat. Depending on how everything is designed internally, it's possible you could end up burning things up inside by pulling all of the current through a single terminal. On the other hand, if the multiple inputs are more for "looks" and they are all fed through a single wire/trace on the inside of the board it might end up working fine.

    So.....it really depends on the specific circumstances. But if you could split them up, that would be the safest route. And it might possible be the only route depending the design of the amp.

    Ah shit. Gotta order a distro then thanks guys.

    EDIT and smaller wire lol


  6. It's so it can be wired with two woofers as the amp is already mono. Depending on the amp it shouldn't matter which ones you use.

    No not speaker terminals. Power and Ground.

    Like....the Warhorse has 3. If I were to only use one power and ground each but with 3/0 wire (reduced at the terminal) would it function the same way? Or do the terminals themselves have some kind of current limit? Of course I don't have a Warhorse and wouldn't do that to a Warhorse but just for comparison's sake.


  7. my mom said it was a black guy. i also forgot to mention that i might be selling my nightshades.. either here on the forum or on craigslist. any buyers?

    So tell us what happen?

    Your mom saw a black guy and did nothing about it? And are you sure he was black? You said yourself that your car was blacked out right? So the only way she could tell what race he was is if she saw him breaking in, if thats the case, why didn't she do anything to stop it? If he was covering his face or something, then that again begs the question, how do YOU know he was black?

    If somebody stole your car and your mom said she saw a black guy...then chances are that you're gonna side with your mom? I mean yeah, you can't believe everything you hear but we're talking about his mom.


  8. Well I dunno, maybe everyone can't afford to do everything perfect the first time? He has a plan. What's so wrong about having a voltage meter? I mean if we're thinking like that then you know your engine is in pretty good shape right? Well then just go ahead and disconnect all of your gauges then because you know it's done right correct? So just like you said you shouldn't have to monitor it right? There's nothing at all wrong with watching your voltage. Every proffesional setup has a meter no matter what they have invested because it's a good idea, plain and simple. In the end he's going to get his setup done correctly and then he can sit back and watch his voltage stay nice and steady with a smile.

    Its a little different than an engine. If you build up your electrical the way you should it shouldn't drop to unsafe levels and it should stay that way. If you can't afford to power an amp correctly then don't buy that amp, buy a less powerful amp or run less power until you have the electrical to support it. If you have to constantly monitor your voltage you have a problem. Not to mention I find a bright blue meter aesthetically displeasing...but that's irrelevant. Competition use is a different story. I assume that's what you meant by professional.

    I understand what your saying but hey, your oil pressure SHOULDN'T drop in your car but you still have a gauge. Your temperature SHOULDN'T ever go over the optimal range but you still have a gauge. It's just like anything else it's good to have it to keep an eye on it. If you read my earlier post I stated that it's not there for him to stare at and walk the fine line. The setup he is going to put in should support what he's looking at running with no problems but what if his alt fails? What if a batt shorts? I mean I honestly can't believe that you guys would argue the point of having something like a meter. And your reference to a motor? No it's not so different. It's a tool to monitor what's going on just like any other gauge you have in your car.

    That wasn't really the point I was making. I'm saying you shouldn't push your equipment to the point where monitoring your voltage is necessary. If you want it to monitor equipment failure far be it from me to stop you. Whatever makes you feel comfortable

    Eh...you guys are making it too crucial. The volt meter is pretty necessary when doing any kind of electrical upgrades. Not only for LOW voltage but voltage spikes and other oddities. And plus, how the heck would you know how much is too much without the volt meter? Sure his lights might dim but if he's at 13.5+ all the time then he doesn't need to back off the gain/volume. Once again, without a volt meter he doesn't know that.

    Sure if you never spend more than you make you'll always have money right? But does that mean you should never look at your bank statement?....like seriously? We're talking about a nice 20 investment. Could be much cheaper.


  9. matts DD truck did a 149.7 @ 17 hrtz on a termlab, meter in legal windsheild location, driver door open.

    can i haz alt?

    There are MULTIPLE people who have seen/sat in/ know of this truck. Not every one cares about videoing TL numbers.

    Besides with the equipment you have, you should be mid 50's....

    He wants to see a video...? That was the whole point of the thread. He doesn't want to just take people's word for it... :puzzled:


  10. Does EVERYONE have to be so...sensitive? I'm not trying to start any extra shit but it seems like everybody wants the other guy to be wrong...and I mean damn...for what? Kryptonite's system can do things most people can't. I'm sure RamRod's system is loud as balls too. Why can't they just coexist peacefully?

    He asked for something legit. Vids (or evidence, don't remember as I'm posting) of 148's at sub 25hz. I think he has a fair ground to do so as several people said his idea's were dumb, or that they could build something twice as loud with less equipment or that some guy was doing 60's with xx xx-inch subs so all he asked was to see it.

    Yeah he called RamRod out but does that mean get so defensive? If he's wrong then shit, he's wrong so show him he's wrong. Asking for proof to prove his proof that disproves your non-existent proof (that might exist...) won't actually solve anything...


  11. Let's say a magical amplifier was 100% efficient, meaning it didn't lose any power to heat, etc. At 14.0v it would require 107amperes to produce 1498watts. There is no way for an amp to produce more power then the amperage and voltage it's being ran on.

    And most amps are measured at higher frequencies and higher ohm loads then what they'll actually be used for. At least in your case. Saz1500d for example, Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz. You'll likely have it crossed a fair amount lower, it'll be playing frequencies even lower, and your probably going to wire down to 1ohm, so your real world efficiency is going to drop.

    Now let me blow your mind, there's this thing called impedance rise, and well, once you start playing music, tones, what ever, the voicecoils on the driver will heat up and the impedance will rise a fair amount. Meaning you'll never really see 1500watts, at least for very long.

    Oh and music is dynamic unlike a sine wave, so even impedance rise thrown to the side, you'll never have a constant 1500watts to your drivers (not even close).

    :)

    Physics :fing34:

    Can't 1500 watts at 1 ohm just be 1500 watts at 1 ohm! :suicide-santa:

    How fun it is to dream....

    In all honesty, this is how it is, there is no circumventing, there is no good reason for worrying about it unless you are competing seriously.

    If so then you already know all about impedance rise and enclosure volumes, their correlation, tuning for peak frequency, burp boxes, driver & port positioning, cabin gain, and how to put it all together...

    And kaboom, DBzzzzz...lol.

    But to the op though, don't stress and try to understand this all at once. Once you have stuff in your hands to play with and test things will be much much easier than reading through here. Don't base your purchases on things like Impedance rise or Inductance. Just pick whatever you want and buy it. Nobody else needs to be happy.

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