Jump to content

An-i-no

SSA Regular
  • Content Count

    1,074
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by An-i-no


  1. I was simply stating my case, just an example.

    And I live in Tucson az, about 120miles or so south of phx, it gets hot. Just getting in the car, everything is hot, including amp heatsink. But after driving around with AC on and my amp at full tilt for 45 minutes, it's barely warm. (cooler then ambient)

    And with cooler weather and regular listening it's cool to the touch.

    Fair enough.


  2. with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe.

    Disregard the part about having different amps. I'm a dummy.

    Well he said the amp was cool in 100 degree+ Arizona weather. I've been to Bullhead City for the summer and that shit is NO JOKE. And I live in Texas normally lol. I just find it hard to believe that the Heatsink on an amp is cool if the amp is running and it's 105 outside. I understand the low voltage thing, I still think that's what his problem is, but if the center of the amp is cool and the heatsink in the only hot part then...that sounds ok to me lol.


  3. yea it has thermal protection and its never went on so maybe these amps just get hot i mean the middle doesnt get hot but the heatsink will get very toasty, well i was told on here before that if i got a h/u with 4v preouts then i wont have to turn my gain up so much which will be less stress on my amp

    Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good.

    And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad.

    This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

    I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades.

    What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.)


  4. yea it has thermal protection and its never went on so maybe these amps just get hot i mean the middle doesnt get hot but the heatsink will get very toasty, well i was told on here before that if i got a h/u with 4v preouts then i wont have to turn my gain up so much which will be less stress on my amp

    Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good.

    And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad.

    This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.


  5. Aw shit. You done started another one of these....

    Pick whichever one you want. Pick one cuz one's cheaper, or cuz one's prettier, it doesn't matter. Pick whatever you like because the do the exact same thing.

    People will come in here and say "well Sundown's underrated and will actually do more" and that's true (to a certain extent. Don't get the SAZ-1500d and expect 2000 watts. It's a 1500 watt amp, it'll do a little extra. You will never notice the extra, or be be able to measure it.) but Audioque is "underrated" as well but like I said, don't get a AQ1200d and expect 1500 watts. It's not a 1500 watt amp.

    Sundown is more expensive. People will come in here and say it's because "you can pick up the phone and talk to the owner" or "awesome customer service costs money" but those aren't the real reason. Sundown is a dealer brand. They sell to dealers who sell to you. That equals more markup. Audioque has no dealers, they sell factory direct. That equals NO markup so they can sell for waaaaayyy cheaper. With Sundown, you have to be careful and buy from Authorized Dealers or you won't get a warranty. Audioque can only be bought straight from the source, so that's not a problem.

    People will come in and say Sundown is built better, but...really? As long as you take care of either one it will pretty much last as long as you need it to so don't worry about that.

    So if they do the same thing, both are underrated, and both last why buy Sundown? You pay for the dealer's rent, the extra engineering, and the super reliable name. (not that Audioque ISN'T reliable) That's all. If you want to pay extra for Sundown, do it. If you don't buy Audioque. Period.

    EDIT: What I'm really trying to say is...there's no Magic "Sundown sauce" that makes Sundown products better than any other. They're good. But Audioque is too lol. (And if it seems like I'm bashing Sundown, my SA-12's get lower than gas in a Trans-Am so yeah...lol)


  6. ok ill see what it comes out to i gotta find it, but if my voltage is dropping what do i need to do i dont have a whole lot of money i have a parttime job so anything that might help my amp from getting so hot would work and still why do you guys think my amp gets sooo darn hot haha?

    Low voltage. Either that or you have it at .5 and not 2? But more than likely low voltage.

    Is it hot as fuck in your car? Cuz if it's 85 outside and you get in and jam it might be operating just fine but since it started out at 100+degrees it just gets hotter?


  7. Sorry but I have personally had experience with several setups that all involved sundown amp problems.

    they are too protection happy.

    Can't have that in the lanes..

    If the price of Crescendo scares people.. then why aren't you sundown guys running Critical Mass?

    The way the point was put, if it's cheaper in price, then it must not be as as good.. that was funny.

    Now i know a couple of guys that have never had problems either.

    But from me being in the comp scene.. there are other amps that stand a lot stronger and stay on.

    x100000

    Rather my amp go into protect than not and blow something. :ughdunno:

    In the lanes though....

    I don't care where i am. Still would rather it go into protect than break something.

    I meant that it COULD be a disadvantage in some cases. An engine that bogs when you're on it too hard is a plus for inexperienced drivers but a con for ppl at the dragstrip...if you get me.


  8. Sorry but I have personally had experience with several setups that all involved sundown amp problems.

    they are too protection happy.

    Can't have that in the lanes..

    If the price of Crescendo scares people.. then why aren't you sundown guys running Critical Mass?

    The way the point was put, if it's cheaper in price, then it must not be as as good.. that was funny.

    Now i know a couple of guys that have never had problems either.

    But from me being in the comp scene.. there are other amps that stand a lot stronger and stay on.

    x100000

    Rather my amp go into protect than not and blow something. :ughdunno:

    In the lanes though....


  9. gallery_14159_557_394577.jpg

    SIIIIIIIKE lol. I made this in my InDesign class (one of my throwaway classes to fill my schedule up)and I think it actually turned out decent. DON'T HATE on the Meade picture, I needed a face-offy picture and that one was perfect. Just thought I'd throw this up here since it has SSA references on it. It's supposed to be folded up like a DVD/Blu-ray cover before anyone asks about the random title in the middle of it.


  10. Depends on the passive, the "extras" I posted above are what could make it different. You could use the passive for the mid and the active for the tweet, but that takes a 4chn amplifier then and not just 2. Passives are also very impedance dependent and actives are not.

    Makes sense. Thanks.


  11. Not such a good idea to use another drivers passive crossovers and replace things.

    If you are 100% sure that the crossover is at X frequency, based on Y impedance, and has no extra tapering/l-padding/filtering then you "could" but the likely hood of it sounding good isn't so much. You can measure the crossovers or dissect the signal path and reverse engineer them to pick a driver, but personally I'd just not use those passives and either run the set active or buy the replacements for the set.

    Hmmmm...I kinda expected that. While I have your attention, what makes a passive crossover different from say the high-pass on my amp? If I ran the set passive, then ran active at the same xover point, why would it make a difference? I wanna replace these with the AA Carbon set, so I wanna know before I dive into the Active Club.


  12. Oh wow. Got the pros in here. Well I'm not sure I have the concept of on and off axis yet. ON axis means pointed at me right? If so then yes, the right tweet is aimed straight at my face, the left is a little off,kinda pointed behind me to the left. I dont have enough amp channels to run active so I need them to run off of the Hertz passives, which is crossed at...yknow. I'm down for a lesson so hit me with everything.

    EDIT: The passives ARE crossed at...cmon brain.


  13. :suicide-santa: One of my my Hertz HSK-165 tweeters came loose and I slammed it in the door... The housing cracked but it still plays. I was just wondering if there was anything I could replace it with that would work crossed at 3500 on a 12db slope? Replacement tweets are not an option. Don't need a lecture on buying authorized either. I bought these knowing there was no warranty.
×