Jump to content

An-i-no

SSA Regular
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1,074

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by An-i-no

  1. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    Someone talk me out of buying a prefab sealed box for my SA-12's just to have SOMETHING below 35hz. I can't take staring at the boxes and then going outside and having to play decaf songs with the sub at -7db.... :suicide-santa:

    What are these songs you are referring to?

    http://www.****/forum/general-car-audio-discussion-questions/16577-decafs-loud-screwed-demo-collection-2-23-22-zips.html

    Here's most of his stuff. You have to download the whole zip and extract it with Winrar (just google it if you dont have it.)

    That's one of his youtube vids. He shows off some of his songs there. Too bad I can't play any of em...

    Lol censor > me. Just google "Decaf's loud screwed demo collection."

    0

  2. Posted

    Someone talk me out of buying a prefab sealed box for my SA-12's just to have SOMETHING below 35hz. I can't take staring at the boxes and then going outside and having to play decaf songs with the sub at -7db.... :suicide-santa:

    Don't :doit:

    <-----Is in mad need of more bass

    I'm about ready to free air em....I bet they'd still play lower than these old ass pioneers

    0

  3. Posted

    Someone talk me out of buying a prefab sealed box for my SA-12's just to have SOMETHING below 35hz. I can't take staring at the boxes and then going outside and having to play decaf songs with the sub at -7db.... :suicide-santa:

    0

  4. Posted

    So the kolossus will do the same job as the welding, i just dont want to buy from 2 different stores and pay 10 on welding and 10 on knu on shipping, when it could be 13 on knu only on shipping, but thanks for ur opinions

    Hell yeah, I feel you on the shipping thing. That's one reason I like to save up money and buy a bunch of stuff at once. Free shipping will sometimes be the difference between whatever online store and ebay...lol

    0

  5. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    That's an unfair comparison. The KCA is cheaper for a reason. In all truths the WS wire, being ofc, is simply a better proudct. Copper wire > Aluminum wire. Period.

    Do you know how much of a difference he will see using the "ofc" over the "cca"..... None.

    You could be right. Until I see a straight up voltage drop/heat/current capacity test that says so then I'll keep buying copper.

    Hmm, it seems like I'm bashing CCA. I'm not, it's just that the copper wire is better at the intended purpose (carrying current). He asked the difference, right?

    0

  6. Posted

    what? u might want to reclarify what u just said...

    WS- 25ft of 1/0 black $83 shipped

    Knu- 50 FT of 1/0 KCA $98 shipped

    Looks like you get a lot more wire for your money by going with Knu..

    If u want to use this wire for a LONG time, regardless if u go with Knu or WS, u need some No-Ox at Lowes.

    That's an unfair comparison. The KCA is cheaper for a reason. In all truths the WS wire, being ofc, is simply a better proudct. Copper wire > Aluminum wire. Period.

    0

  8. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    whats the difference between the kolossus fleks kable vs kca kable, installed on a system of atleast 2000 watts rms, wit stock alt and bat, i know that you see a dif when running high power, but with low power?

    would the kca kable do a good job for the Big 3

    just wanna know so i can order the kca kable, dont have enough for the kolossus fleks

    thank you

    KCA is copper clad aluminum. It doesn't carry current nearly as good as Copper. 0 Gauge KCA would roughly carry as much current as 4ga Kolossus. People will recommend to either use two runs of the KCA or to use a size up (like 4ga up to 0ga) but both of those (I think) cost more than just using Copper wire to start with. Just save a lil money and get the Kolossus Fleks. It's worth the extra cost.

    EDIT: Lol Reading > Me. I'm not sure if you want to use it under the hood as the KCA is more prone to heat buildup. I suppose if you're using 0ga on a stock alt then you might be ok. I would still just get a size smaller copper wire knowing it would run cooler and be more efficient if I was really pressed for cash. Or just do a part of the big 3 now and a part later if you absolutely have to have something now.

    0

  9. Posted

    I see what you mean how the cone looks, basket looks cheap to me.

    I like inverted dustcaps, then I get sick of them and like regular style, and back and forth :P

    I also like the carbon fiber looking dustcaps from psi / fix my speaker, but I'll never buy any of their products...

    Yeah I just noticed it was stamped (I think? Can't really tell). I was thinking it was cast. Motor structure is small too but I wasn't expecting a 8 inch wide triple stack lol

    0

  10. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34766_Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12.html

    The styling on that bish is craaaaazy. I just want to know from designer's and manufacturer's how much thought goes into the looks department of a sub, or...any product for that matter. I know there's you "I could care less how it looks, it's all about performance" but to me that's almost never true. Those blue ass "HIFONICS" logos and smooth one piece dustcaps like the AA Havoc has all add to the final product. (Not saying you should buy a Hifonics or Rockford P3 or even a Havoc just for looks) So I just want input from other people.

    I'll probably get mad hate for puttin the Rockford link, but all their new stuff is really pretty. I have no idea how it performs but it's damn pretty. The glossy cones on the component sets and the trim rings and grills that come with the subs are friggin awesome. I love my SA-12, but if it came with a color-matched trim ring that said "SUNDOWN-AUDIO" on the outside I'd love it even more.

    EDIT: Had an idiot moment. "Color-matched" with black and white? LOL @ me.

    0

  11. Posted

    You think the drivers you listed above are better than the SA series? The SA series is an excellent entry level sub. I actually hate calling the SA entry level but price wise they are in that market.

    Wait what? When did I say that? I have 2 SA-12's? This isn't for ME, this is a build I'm planning for someone else. I said if I wanted to do a small build like her's it'd be four Fi X 10's, sorry.

    And to Nick, I'd love for her to do one SSD 15 but duh.

    0

  12. Posted

    I'd just go with some dcons or fi x's, well worth the money, won't disappoint :)

    If it was me I'd have four Fi x 10's! But it's for a cousin who is still a skeptic. She heard my Hertz HSK's and was blown away (hehe so fun to do that) but I don't have my SA-12's running to show her how awesome 30hz is. So for right now I'm thinking two tens until I find out how much she wants to spend.

    0

  14. Posted

    Damn mang. Did NOT mean to start this ish...

    Anyways figured I might as well update. These Knu's are ballin. The jacket is way more flexible but duhhh. They'll be easier to run and most importantly won't break mah stuffzz. Oh and having one 2 channel and one 4 channel is another plus. That is all. They both do the same damn thing, but the Knu's fit my application better

    If you've ever seen the first Men in Black, running the Monoprice rca's (keep in mind I had 3 25ft ones.) was like the baby squid scene....

    0

  16. Posted

    Hey I'm in the planning stages of a build for my cousin. She knows absolutely nothing about car audio but I'm slowly changing that. I have a request for you guys though...

    Show me some Fi X's, DCON's, 187's, anything. I need some good pictures of stuff around that price/power range. I know all of those have stock photos but I wanna see some upside down and in boxes and all that. Thanks in advance.

    0

  19. Posted

    What size of wire would you use for the pioneer speakers? just 12-14gauge?

    I used 12 for my doors and it was hell in a microwave. Use 16. Don't worry about it not being big enough. It'll do exactly what you need it to and be WAAAAAY easier to run under carpets and through holes.

    Also, no problem. I like to give people a hand where I had trouble.

    0

  20. Posted

    I have never used Pioneers amps, do they put out there manufacturer rms wattages, and do there amps have long life? I am asking, because I am interested in buying the Pioneer GM-D9500F.

    Also, if I buy those Pioneer 720PRS speakers, could I put both the crossovers under one of my seats or are they recommended to be closer to the speakers? Like I said, I haven't ever used components or even heard them before.

    I've never used that amp in particular but I have/had an older pioneer amp and besides running a little hot it never gave me trouble. (My dad gave it to me and he had been using it since 2006. I replaced it a month ago.) The fuse rating is up to par so I see no reason why it wouldn't put out rated power. The crossover you can put anywhere as long as you wire it correctly. One for the left and one for the right (if thats what you were asking? kinda confused.)

    0

  21. Posted

    what amp would be best for the pioneers? Also could these take more than 60rms without distorting or having any other problems? that doesn't seem like a lot for components.

    Oh hecks yes. Most component sets will say "60wrms" or "80wrms" when you can actually give them say 90, 100, even 120wrms. Just know to back off if they start to strain.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16644_Pioneer-GM-5400T.html

    This would be perfect if you plan on only amping the fronts and like for your stuff to match.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22382_Pioneer-GM-D9500F.html

    This one would work if you want to amp all four speakers, or want to bridge the rear channels for a sub. Just do a little bit of shopping. Sundown is always a nice choice, but there are other brands that will get the job done just as nicely.

    0

  23. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    Werd? My motor force or sd might increase!?

    But more seriously...I don't need a scientist to tell me that water is wet. You don't need a program to tell you that MT's need x.x ft3 at xxHz. What we have here are two one of a kind hybrid woofers so t/s specs WILL make more of a difference. You don't wanna bathe in an unknown liquid do you?

    So, your saying with MT's they are different then all other woofers and don't need magical program to get a box, but all other woofers do?

    They fact that y'all would even trust a program that much shows a lot about the designs produced form y'all.

    kind of losing sight of topic. i really want to build a nice sturdy box for these that shoot hight numbers. im not much of a arguer. sorry

    You still have not specified what you want. Pure SPL numbers? Loud music?

    No, I'm saying something that was said earlier. You're not the only one with an MT. You could do a quick google search and see what other people have had success with. If you didn't do that then what DID you do? Make up a size and port area? How do you build boxes if you don't model them?

    He can't just do reasearch. We have NO IDEA what kind of woofers these are (specs wise). We don't know if they're super stiff spl machines or low fs daily beaters.

    I'd much rather trust a program before I just made up some numbers and tried it. That way I could see that my response would be peaky or saddle shaped WITHOUT having to build a box and test.

    But how does the program know what's going to happen? It has no clue in reality. It's just saying what other humans have GUESSED would happen and programed it to say....

    Not guessed. Calculated. USING MATH. With what numbers I wonder.....oh wait, those T/S specs you ignore. They are given for a reason. They do not suddenly go haywire once you play the woofer. All that happens is the suspension loosens up. Motor force, cone area, moving mass, and several others don't change after you play it? If they were useless, why would manufacturer's go through all the trouble to measure them?

    EDIT: And you know what, I'm not even saying that you should swear by a program and trust it always. I'm saying that it's a tool to use that can give you a base to build on. It's better than friggin guessing. I'm also not questioning your ability to build boxes. I'm questioning the means by which you design them. (or lack thereof, really.)

    0

  24. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html

    Pioneer awesomeness, great for the money.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15059_Polk-Audio-MM6501.html

    If you liked Polk before, You could try these.

    http://www.vertexaudio.com/store/pc/CDT-Audio-COM-626-COX-622-Front-Rear-Package-65p174.htm

    If you're set on having rears, this would be good.

    And Hertz HSK and ESK sets can be found on Ebay. Just do a little shopping.

    I've listened to everything but the ESK and CDT. I'd personally go for the Pioneer's as I liked their sound the best. The Polk's had a little easier tweeter but less midbass than the Pioneer. The Hertz are alot louder and slightly clearer than both the Polk and Pioneer but I had those on a stronger amp. They also had slightly less midbass than the Pioneer. More than the Polk though. But that could've been how I had them eq'd so ignore that nvm.

    0
×