An-i-no
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Posts posted by An-i-no
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Its not that I care, really.
Just tired of people downing one product to push another and giving the wrong reason(s) in why not to use the one their dowing.
Huh? It's wire? Where do you see this?
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kind of losing sight of topic. i really want to build a nice sturdy box for these that shoot hight numbers. im not much of a arguer. sorry
Sorry op, but without t/s specs it's kinda hard to tell what kind of box they would do best in. Unless someone is really familiar with the woofers they (used to be?) are then it's difficult. Without building several boxes and testing of course.
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hi, i have two 12's i made out of wmd motors (the tripple stacked ones) and mostly sig soft parts. like i said i have two of them and two 1500 watt rockford amps. this is going into my durango. i would like to hit high numbers with these. i have tons of room back there and a 2400 bat. i just need help designing a box. thank you all in advance!!
eddie g
Find the ts specs and go from there.
Hard to make a box suggestion without knowing any t/s for the subs in question.
Not really, alot of woofers T/S specs are wrong, and others don't even offer T/S specs.
OP, do you want pure SPL? Loud music?
I wouldn't recommend competing with those amps, they will get you put in a high power class.
What? That is an erroneous statement and I am surprised that more guys haven't jumped on this. How are YOU designing enclosures without ts specs?
How are you designing them around them? After 2 week of playing the T/S specs on woofers changes completely, so what good are they then?
If we HAD to have T/S specs to make boxes, how would I build an enclosure for my old MT's, or for some DD Z's?
My enclosures out perform most peoples without even trying, on both output, and over all good sound.
Werd? My motor force or sd might increase!?
But more seriously...I don't need a scientist to tell me that water is wet. You don't need a program to tell you that MT's need x.x ft3 at xxHz. What we have here are two one of a kind hybrid woofers so t/s specs WILL make more of a difference. You don't wanna bathe in an unknown liquid do you?
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I have a 25' monoprice RCA and it is hella stiff but it is really nice quality stuff.
You have the same as me lol. They are stiff, but a couple of hot days in the car will make em a lil more freindly. They'll loosen up with time and use.
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Idk... I kinda wanna keep them incase I need. O sell them when I upgrade to 2 15" ZCONs.
But PM me an offer and we can talk
I totally understand. Just lmk if you change your mind, cuz this double sided tape ain't cuttin it lol
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UPDATE: I had to pry off one of the tabs to free the rca end. Unfortunately this bent it but nothin a lil heat and pressure coudln't fix. Then, shortly after, I unplugged another one of the rca's (100000x more carefully than last time, I twisted, tugged, everything) and it took that one off too. I love these cables but damn man.
OH, and sorry I forgot to take pics because I was so glad to have everything back running. But everything is all good now.
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Why does one tire cost more than another? They are all just rubber right? Why does a Lexus cost more than a Hyundai? They are both just plastic and steel. Why is gas higher in one part of the country versus another? It's all the same fuel . .
Notice anything?
If my Hyundai was just as good a vehicle as the Lexus, those tires just as good as the more expensive ones, and the additives in the cheap fuel just as good as the not cheap fuel...you understand where this is going. Sure, every company has markup and "Name recognition prices" but it doesn't = better product. DD's 3500 and under (remember, that's what the thread is about)almost always aren't worth what people want for them. As a company, when you look at that, that has to call your attention. But hell, the turnover is so huge on them I'd doubt they notice.
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If you have the money, the Rockford 2500 constant power sounds good for your application. It has roughly the same output from 1 to 4 ohms.
Yea, but thats only ~500 wrms over what Im giving one. Im trying to atleast give them their RMS.
Get two small(er) amps and run them at 1 ohm?
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what about the fact that they use all american parts like your beloved Fi, what about the fact that they have the second largest magntizer in the U.S., what about the fact that they have incorporated cooling and coil inventions that every other company disects only to steal ideas from.to answer, no the 3500 is not worth the price. your dealer is shitting on you. my dealer sells those for 295. the 9500 or z is what you want.To avoid anyone being insulted, I'll just say what I know about them. Fairly strong motors, short coils, TONS of laminated spiders (I dissected a 3500, and it had six laminated spiders, which were extremely brittle, that's just a drawback of that type of spider, they dryrot) direct leads, and ultralight cones, that's about all there is, the technology behind them is very old for a subwoofer, nothing special.What makes having the 2nd largest magnetizer in the US have to do with making the lines from 9500 and below any more special than another sub? What cooling is different on those lines and coil inventions? The price was posted on CA.com by a dealer and no one said it was too much.
First being, DD woofers play the same and sound the same as ANY other woofer. It's ALL box dependent. DD's advantage to most is their motor force, and other motor innovations.
at least something other than "so much wrong"Wow, so much misinformation on DD's in here. I don't even know where to begin.
I never said they didn't sound the same or anything. I am saying they aren't special. What is special about their motors besides the three Zs.
I'm right there with you. The proof is in the puddin'.
And if they don't play any different then...the consumer should pay more why?
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And to the guy who calls bullshit on my thread, uhmmm....? The rca connector was tight, I pulled on it and the rca jack came off with it? I didn't yank or pull it from the cord if that's what you're saying? This wasn't meant to be a "everybody talk about Monoprice" thread, I was just EXTREMELY frustrated that this happened. Spending money on unnecessary things is hard on minimum wage.
The same thing happened with my Sundown SAX-100.4 and some high end JL RCA's. Should just pop back in.
I haven't tried that. I can't actually, because the damn jack is stuck in the RCA end and I'd have to cut it up to free it. Might try that in the morning.
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To avoid anyone being insulted, I'll just say what I know about them. Fairly strong motors, short coils, TONS of laminated spiders (I dissected a 3500, and it had six laminated spiders, which were extremely brittle, that's just a drawback of that type of spider, they dryrot) direct leads, and ultralight cones, that's about all there is, the technology behind them is very old for a subwoofer, nothing special.
what about the fact that they use all american parts like your beloved Fi, what about the fact that they have the second largest magntizer in the U.S., what about the fact that they have incorporated cooling and coil inventions that every other company disects only to steal ideas from.
to answer, no the 3500 is not worth the price. your dealer is shitting on you. my dealer sells those for 295. the 9500 or z is what you want.
American parts...cool. Big ass magnetizer...I don't give a damn about. Super neat cooling designs...cool. So all this means their stuff should be more expensive right? Or that the dealer gets to charge whatever right?
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And to the guy who calls bullshit on my thread, uhmmm....? The rca connector was tight, I pulled on it and the rca jack came off with it? I didn't yank or pull it from the cord if that's what you're saying? This wasn't meant to be a "everybody talk about Monoprice" thread, I was just EXTREMELY frustrated that this happened. Spending money on unnecessary things is hard on minimum wage.
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TO EVERYONE!!!: I never said the RCA was bad. I never said I didn't like the snug fit, or the cable itself. They are damn good cables, as far as noise is concerned. I tried to twist and ease it off but it was a no go. So I pulled? Oops? The only reason I'm replacing the cables is so that I don't have to worry about this in the future.
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Wow, so much misinformation on DD's in here. I don't even know where to begin.
Anywhere?
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Hell yeah. I hate re-buying stuff. Just money that could've gone somewhere else.
That's why you get good stuff from the beginning.
The cable itself if far from bad. just the plug is tight as hell. They were so cheap that if I tried to return them I'd lose money by paying for shipping.
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Hell yeah. I hate re-buying stuff. Just money that could've gone somewhere else.
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Got the new HERTZ components in. Just drilled my own Damn holes.
They sound MUCH better than the Bravox comps. And they r on half the power right now. I will be selling the crossovers if anyone is interested.
PICS!!!!
Hey bro since you flush mounted, do you have the angle/surface mounts for the tweeters? I lost one of mine and would REAAAAAALY appreciate if you would sell me the pair?
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So yeah...the RCA was being stubborn so I was givin it a firm pull and *POP*, the RCA jack came right off the amp.
I'm pissed beyond belief right now, and ordering Knu RCA's as we speak. Pics to come soon.
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Order an adapter set from car-speaker-adapters.com
That adapter is a piece of crap. Build your own. A speaker requires a baffle to sound good.
I decided that I will give it a shot at making my own out of 3/4" mdf, and the only part that worries me is the top half of the mounting depth, because right from my window to the top of the mounting bracking (not speaker) is 2.5" but I don't know how much room I have from the top of the mounting bracket to the back of the door panel
Good, nice call
If you can't measure directly, squish some clay in there and see how much it squishes down. Then you'll know your clearance.
I lack the three T's. (Time, Tools, and Training) All I needed was a way to get 6.5's in my door. I figure deadening and sealing up the door itself will be more beneficial than the material of the adapter. They are sealed up against the door nice and tight.
To Crash, DON'T forget to treat the MDF with something or you will be very sad. As far as having room between the door panel and door itself, you should be good as long as the speaker isn't slapping the panel when it plays?
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Awesome thank you! I am way glad to know I can fit 6.5" in
I looked on the site you told me and didn't see my car model so I e-mailed them to see if they have that size for my model. Is there anywhere else that has the adapters for about the same price?The most important part is to check your mounting DEPTH, as that will limit what you can get in the door more than the diameter will. And uhhhh...well there are various 6x8 to 6.5 adapters made by Scosche and Metra but those are wayyyyy small and require alot more material to be removed (which honestly after that much work you might as well just cut your own, right?) I have the 6x8 to 6.5 and they fit my 98 Explorer perfectly. I'm assuming that even though your Mazda is way newer it would be the same mounts, but I could be wrong. The cool thing about them is that if you have a drill, you can drill your own holes or even just use a phillips head to bore new holes. The material is very strong. I wouldn't hesitate to buy some even if I knew I would have to drill new mounting holes. If you want pictures I could probably post some?
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You're awesome man. I honestly appreciate you taking the time to make sure everything is right and responding to all my requests (even if they get wacky at times). I really do apologize for all the confusion.
I only have three real places to mount the amps. On the back of my seat (which the box will be pushed up against anyway) on the box, or on the floor in the cargo area but that would make it where I can't put anything on top of the amps. I'd really rather mount them on the box with the double baffle though...
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Ok so subs up, port out the side of the box facing your wheel/driver side of the car?
I have never received a request for a box design like this so I just want to make sure
Andrew
Yes, exactly. Subs up, port to the side. If you have to make it deeper then that's fine. Don't worry too much about it being "at" the drivers side. I just need subs up, ports to the side. This way, I can simply rotate it if I need to.
For example, with subs up, port side I would start with subs up port left. I can rotate it 90 degrees and have subs up port back, rotate it another 90 degrees and have subs up port right. That's all I really want is versatility.
PS. Did you read my request about the double baffle on the back of the box to mount amps to? That would be really awesome...thanks in advance, and sorry for all the trouble...
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Someone start an audio company and outsource to Japan...
But on a more serious note that's friggin awesome. If only our streets and highways could get this type of treatment.
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A 6x8 adapter so I can fit a 6.5" speaker?
Yes sir. The only thing is, they come with at 5.5 inch hole so you'll probably have to do a lil shaving/sanding/hit it with the dremel to get the speaker to fit but I find it better that way than to come with a giant hole or having to tell them directly what size you need. Just make the hole bigger til it fits snug. If you happen to crack or break it they'll hook you up with a new one
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box for 2 custom 12's
in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Posted
No, I'm saying something that was said earlier. You're not the only one with an MT. You could do a quick google search and see what other people have had success with. If you didn't do that then what DID you do? Make up a size and port area? How do you build boxes if you don't model them?
He can't just do reasearch. We have NO IDEA what kind of woofers these are (specs wise). We don't know if they're super stiff spl machines or low fs daily beaters.
I'd much rather trust a program before I just made up some numbers and tried it. That way I could see that my response would be peaky or saddle shaped WITHOUT having to build a box and test.