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An-i-no

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Posts posted by An-i-no

  1. Posted

    Second one looks very much like a transmission line, and NOT a horn since the 'port' surface actually tapers down.

    THIS is a rear loaded horn:

    4bj04lh.jpg

    I was going to say the second is a TQWP.

    I did a ABC a while ago, heres mine. These things are really heavy when done as a slot port.

    ABCBox001.jpg

    What did it sound like?

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  3. Posted

    I have the non-bose 4 speaker package.

    When I measured my front speakers in my doors, I measured the outsides of the bracket that speaker is in which is pretty close to the same size as the speaker, which my measurements were 8" Long x 5.75" Wide

    In other words, a 6x8 like all us ford guys. Order an adapter set from car-speaker-adapters.com

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  4. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    Ok here we go:

    20 deep

    18 tall

    34.25 wide

    3.5 @ 27 Hz

    Slot Port

    Flush Mount

    Subs up, port back on driver side

    $152 plus shipping

    This price includes carpet of your choice. I have black and salt and peper right now. I can also get gray.

    Andrew

    Subs up port back? I need subs up port driver's side so I can push the box all the way up againt my backseat...hope that doesnt take a major redesign, sorry...

    Oh and salt & pepper carpet please?

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  5. Posted

    Not really necessary. What do you gain by setting your system at a level that is under an amount that you can hear? How are you compensating for different recording levels on CD's? Max non-clipped output power isn't a determining factor in what your speakers can survive. They have a level of Average power they can take and you can't exceed that. Depending on the size of your amplifier that could easily be even a fully clipped signal. How then is it beneficial to measure/set gains based on some nonsensical level that is determined incorrectly by some harmonic at -40dB?

    If you are wondering on my last sentence, pretty easy to figure out. If you want to measure THD (total harmonic distortion) and want it to be at -40dB or less, how you would design an analog circuit to do that? That's right you'd make a detector for each and every harmonic and then a summing circuit. Obviously a very strange way to do this when you could much more easily do this in the digital domain.

    I really don't want to seem like an idiot but....how? I'm not really following...I understand the first paragraph fully if that means anything.

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  9. Posted

    I was thinking the same thing, Clipping is a form of distortion, but it doesn't have to be clipped to be distorted.

    But I'm not a 100%. And I'm not claiming to be. I wasn't going to post anything until somebody said that same thing.

    I'm pretty sure because you can have a crappy mp3 that's distored all to hell but never clips. Or a very clean mp3 that's all dynamic n shiz and clips at a certain point. I have songs that do both.

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  10. Posted

    heat?

    heat is always a loss

    square wave?

    boom?

    lol

    while i was writing this i was thinking i made some dubstep song yesterday and added in alot of distortion to the sound.

    does this mean when its reproduced, its reproduced as distortion?

    In a perfect world, yes. Your music SHOULD come out EXACTLY the way it is put in, just amplified. But since that wouldn't sound good to most people you have different ways to alter or color the sound (if you've ever heard that before) to make it sound like you want to. Equalizers, bass boost, even high and low pass filters all affect the sound and take it away from the raw fomat that it is (being an mp3, cd recording, or even a record.) and change it.

    What does this have to do with distortion? Well...not all distortion can be heard, and not all distortion is bad. What some people refer to as "warmth" is sometimes distortion. (Disclamier, anything after this could be totally wrong I'm not sure.) From what I understand, Clipping is only a FORM of distorion. Not ALL distorion is clipping.

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  11. Posted

    Do some Blue Sky Black Death!

    More specifically, Listen Child, A Private Death, Skies Open, We all are Well Known, and Walk With Me.

    We All are Well Known will probably be found under "Blue Sky Black Death ft. Holocaust"

    Walk With me will probably be found under "Gutta Ft. Vinnie Paz" but they produced both songs.

    Not very many of their songs have loud basslines but they're all so pretty. It'd be awesome to be able to show off the detail and BOOOOM at the same time lol

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  17. Posted

    First off how are you planning on running the subs? None of the amps you listed run under 2 ohm, which limits what you can do with your setup. And I agree with smashedz28 you will need ALOT of power to even see have of the rated power!! If I were you, I'd look into a sundown amp for those prices or a crescendo amp. These two amps that I stated pick up more frequencies than those you stated also.

    ok i was looking at the dc 3.5 k or at the aq3500 which do you recommend. and when i buy the sub what is better 1 or 2 ohm,

    My best advice to you is to read read read bro. Then read some more.

    www.bcae1.com <- Go here and click on anything you don't understand and read until you do. If this is going to be your first serious system then you should really start much smaller.

    What you're trying to do is NOT EASY and you WILL NOT be able to just buy things online and have someone else put it in. You're looking at serious effort. Box designs, building battery trays, finding places to run several 0 gauge wires, sound deadening...so unless you're ready to strip the car down to bare metal (remove all the seats and carpet and door panels and interior pieces) to lay down deadener and run wires then this is not the build for you. You'll probably have to get fiberglassing done to house all the mids and highs you'll need to keep up with all the power you want...so yeah..

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  19. Posted

    ok so yeah this thing is moving a helluva lot now too bad i took it out of the box to test it and in the process broke a ring terminal. thanks shizz. now how should i go about fine tuning this thing

    YO! ALL AQ REMOTES ARE BACKWARDS! ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT IS ALL THE WAY DOWN!!! Idk why it's like that but it is.

    So yes, he probably had both the amp gain and remote gain all the way down.

    Calm down.....

    Lol, I didn't know if he knew or not. That's pretty important

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  20. Posted

    What's your budget for this? And what do you currently have for equipment? So you can't afford to sell your current deck and buy one that's capable of running active? Like an alpine 9887, 9886 w/ pxa-h100, pioneer 880? You can get one of these for around $200-250 if you shop around. And if you don't already have the 100.4, you could buy a cheaper amp with similar power and a lesser crossover and save about $100. Which makes the active capable deck more reasonable. That also opens up your choices for running whatever speakers you want and not having to settle for a passive 2-way set now that will probably get replaced later. Not to mention it takes a lot of time to get an active setup to sound good. This would give you time tuning a 2-way active stage, and make it easier for you to tune a 3 way later down the road.

    Well, the Sundown has the crossovers that can go active, and I really don't think I can find a 100.4 for what I can get that for.

    Headunit wise, I'm really not a fan of any currectly offered with active capability. And I plan to run a real processor down the road, so buying a headunit I don't like, to later not need it isn't what I want to do.

    I got a buddy telling me to start simple. 2 way passive. He thinks he can get them to sound good. Which I'm not disagreeing, I just don't know if I'll get the imaging I want. But what would I expect with a set of passive with no real way to EQ or time align them.

    I'm semi leaning towards a 3way passive. Then I can get my placement then when I'm ready go active. But the different in $$$ in a good bit. Seems 3way cost double that of a 2way of the same.

    My AQ 4x90 has awesome crossovers...just throwing that out there. It might not be as powerful as the 100.4 but I doubt you'd ever push either amp to tell a diff.

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  21. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    ok so yeah this thing is moving a helluva lot now too bad i took it out of the box to test it and in the process broke a ring terminal. thanks shizz. now how should i go about fine tuning this thing

    YO! ALL AQ REMOTES ARE BACKWARDS! ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT IS ALL THE WAY DOWN!!! Idk why it's like that but it is.

    So yes, he probably had both the amp gain and remote gain all the way down.

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  22. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    Try this thread:

    THANK YOU. I have a couple of questions though.

    1. This is probably a dumb one, but what's the difference between "2X4 inches (adhesuive both sides)" and "2X4 inches (adhesive one side only)?" Doesn't one side have glue and the other velcro? How are the two different then?

    2. Do the MLV and CCF need to be like glued/velroed to the door in order to be effective? Can they "float?"

    That is all.

    I didn't click on the thread so answering 1 is tough. Description seems to say it all though...

    As for two, you want the MLV to be decoupled from the structure as much as possible. Which you could draw the analogy that it is "floating".

    If it has adhesive on both sides where the hell is the velcro???

    So then, for the sake of simplicity, it would be bare metal -> CLD-> CCF -> MLV -> Door panel?

    Budget some MLV and CCF. As stated above run the MLV on top of the CCF so the MLV is decoupled from the metal.

    Like stated, it would be bare metal -> CLD-> CCF -> MLV -> Door panel?

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  23. Posted

    Try this thread:

    THANK YOU. I have a couple of questions though.

    1. This is probably a dumb one, but what's the difference between "2X4 inches (adhesuive both sides)" and "2X4 inches (adhesive one side only)?" Doesn't one side have glue and the other velcro? How are the two different then?

    2. Do the MLV and CCF need to be like glued/velroed to the door in order to be effective? Can they "float?"

    That is all.

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  25. Posted

    I would order a bunch of cld tiles from Don at SDS. They'll add "some" rigidity to the doors, but primarily keep the sheet metal from rattling like crazy. You could then put a layer of MLV, just place a roll over the door panel and cut to shape, that'll deaden everything.

    Lastly a layer of ccf will keep the door panel plastic from rattling against the sheet metal (decoupler).

    All this can be bought here: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

    Don is a great guy, knows what he's doing, super helpful.

    Couldn't have typed it any better! :fing34:

    No, no I already have some cld tiles and butyl rope bugeted (lol) I read somewhere to spray like bedliner on the inside of the door panel to deaden it, but the kind I saw at Lowes was pretty expensive and I didn't like the smell so I was wondering if there's anything that could be used for the same purpose.

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