

An-i-no
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Posts posted by An-i-no
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One of them is the "Kick" version which is better suited for kick panels. The other one would be for doors I guess?
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Air leak maybe? Does it do it at lower volumes?
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As long as you don't buy from sketchy ass random overseas ebay seller you should be fine.
Most of the people who encounter that problem are people who want $1,000 comp sets for $149.99.
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What's the volume of the box?
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Ok, first off your goals are exact opposites. SPL boxes are tuned high and are used for burps only. They don't play music. SQ boxes are tuned low for a flat response and will not be very loud...so you can't have both.
What you want is a daily box. The tuning depends on what you listen to. I know you said hip hop and r&b but not all of that is at the same frequencies.
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And you said these will be more suited towards sealed boxes than the E-8's?
Does that apply to the SD series vs the E series as a whole?
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Soundstream (the brand name) has been sold at least once, maybe twice since that amp was produced so if you called today you wouldn't be calling the people who made your amp.
To be honest you might be outta luck...I would try ebay.
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I had my SA-12's in the recommended 1cu sealed before I switched to the recommended 1.75cu ported and the difference is night and day.
I also had a few different amps on them and noticed between 350wrms each and 900wrms each there wasn't a HUGE increase in volume but it was noticable. I would say get a sub that is more suited for a sealed box because you'd be cheating yourself if you didn't port the SA-12's. That's my opinion.
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http://www.everestsoundlabs.com/
First thing that pulls up?
This is irrelevant but that music scared the SHIT outta me...this is a warning to anyone who clicks the link lol
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You need to go out and measure your maximum space BEFORE you buy anything.
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What amp do you have now?
It would be easier and safer to Run the 2 XCONs on 2 seperate one ohm stable amps.
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The advertised 2 ohms is AC Impedance. The 1.5 you're getting is DC Resistance. Nothing is wrong with your Xcon. If you get another Dual 2 it will read similarly (it will probably not be EXACTLY the same).
And don't run your amp at .5 ohms. It will put lots of stress on the amp and you run the risk of blowing it if you're not careful. It doesn't matter if you set the gains perfectly, most amps are not built to run at .5 ohms on a daily basis.
Oh and the impedance changes when playing it because of several things. Heat (from being powered), Position in the motor, and a bunch of other stuff cause the impedance to rise and drop. This is called "impedance rise" or "box rise" and is normal.
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You should post this in one of the AT sub forums and see what is said. I know I will not buy this after seeing the pictures. And not using a roller will not cause this!
Exactly what happened when we refunded him money for his first person comparison of XP Flex wire. So freaking unprofessional,
Say whaa?
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Demand a refund. He's failed as a seller in so many different places at this point that I wouldn't want the damn amp.
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Just buy some gold
No research needed, really.
Sounds like a plan.
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All very good points.
Gotta love needing to add alts.
J
The compromises we make for car audio. People make funny ass faces when you try to explain some of the stuff we do.
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It's wired in parallel inside the amp so if you use both sets of terminals the amp will see half of what you have hooked up.
For example, if you parallel both of your subs (which will drop them to 2 ohms) and the use both + and - terminals (one for each sub) then the amp will see 1 ohm.
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Be sure you install the inline fuse as close to the battery as possible.
I also prefer anl type fuses. Unless you buy a high quality agu fuse you could likely end up with a voltage drop due to the poor solder on the end caps. Atc fuses aren't bad but not easy to find in high amperage and not a lot of choices for a fuse holder.
Some people don't add an inline fuse on the big 3 wire to the alternator. I always do though. I don't have any power wire on my truck that isn't fused.
Let me know how you like the ppi amp. I just bought the big 4 channel but haven't installed it yet.
Off topic, but you got the 800.4?
I have one...it's a damn nice amp.
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Sadly this is the youth and the future of our world. Where did mankind go wrong that the youth don't even now where they came from.
PARENTS not beating there kids enough to instil fear in them!
and adults not acting like adults you know stuff like that!
x2. The internet has destroyed all social rules. When people can say whatever they want without consequence you get shit like this.
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You do NOT want to put it in the box. The pressure will do all kinds of funky stuff to it. Im pretty tired so I didn't quite understand the rest of it but please don't put it in the box.
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4 x 35 = 140 amps before the fuses blow so http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4 should do just fine. I have that kit and it's great.
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Shit bro...That's something you never wanna hear. Good to see you're doing ok though.
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What is your budget?
What are the available xover points/slopes on your HU?
Where are they being mounted and how much room do you have available?
Glad you decided against a supertweeter
There is really very few applications where they make sense in an automobile despite the widespread use (read: misapplication) by SPL guys.
Initial budget is $150 for the pair. If I need to go a little overboard I will. I don't own the HU yet (having trouble finding one that isn't marked up like crazy) so I can't answer that in detail but I can look it up. As far as the mounting location I have my current tweet high on the doors and I like them there so I guess that's where I'd put the new one.
Depth restrictions?
Probably not. If so, I'd build a spacer.
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Just me being impatient but..
in Classifieds Feedback
Posted
Establish GOOD contact first. Maybe get a cell number or something. Then ask HIM to send YOU an invoice and you pay for it then.