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An-i-no

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Posts posted by An-i-no

  1. Posted

    What is your budget?

    What are the available xover points/slopes on your HU?

    Where are they being mounted and how much room do you have available?

    Glad you decided against a supertweeter smile.png There is really very few applications where they make sense in an automobile despite the widespread use (read: misapplication) by SPL guys.

    Initial budget is $150 for the pair. If I need to go a little overboard I will. I don't own the HU yet (having trouble finding one that isn't marked up like crazy) so I can't answer that in detail but I can look it up. As far as the mounting location I have my current tweet high on the doors and I like them there so I guess that's where I'd put the new one.

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  2. Posted

    I'm guessing hsk 165 xl?

    I'd snag some large format tweeters from Parts-Express, Madisound, etc.

    Large format? I'm not sure what that means. I'm new to non-CA drivers.

    http://www.parts-exp...CAT&srchCat=454

    http://www.madisound...-dome-tweeters/

    http://www.madisound...tweeter-page-2/

    As to which. See what you can fit, falls into budget, and perhaps find some reviews / graphs for distortion and break up.

    There's quite a few reviews and tests done on diyma of tweeters that might help you pick.

    You can also check out some reviews on http://www.zaphaudio...weetermishmash/

    Supertweeters can't play nice to 2.5kHz. Not even close. Take the Fs and multiple by 2. That is the LOWEST you should cross a driver. In general, getting a tweeter loud is easy. Getting a sub loud is easy. The difficulty is in the midbass and midrange. If you want volume you give up frequency range. No way around that. Time to pick your compromise.

    I know you already decided that super tweets don't make sense for you...and really make sense pretty much NEVER in a car, but wanted to clarify.

    A large format tweeter with a low Fs is definitely more appropriate. You don't have enough mid to bother going with anything more extreme.

    Thanks for the tips guys. I'll do some reading.

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  5. Posted

    Hmm...after a little research I'm on your side. I don't think I want supertweets at all. My processing will come in the form of a Pioneer DEH-80PRS so ill be able to control the xover points from up front.

    So...I'm looking for a tweet that I can cross around 2.5khz safely

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  6. Posted

    I'm currently tinkering with ideas for my front stage. I'm looking for a particular sound and I'm not sure how to describe it but here it goes....

    I have a set of Grado Sr80i Headphones (which I HIGHLY recommend to anyone who loves music) and they have lots of....shimmer? on the high end. I want that sound for my car. I want the higher midrange to be pronounced, I want to hear the details (such as the rasp in men's voices) and I want it to be pretty loud. I have a cheap bookshelf setup in my room and it has Piezo horns in it that have the sound (as far as highs) that I'm looking for. The best I can describe it is airy, or wispy? A very exciting sound.

    So with that said, I really haven't listened to much, and I haven't listened to anything in a car that sounds like what I want. I've never heard a supertweeter. So, just based off of you guy's experiences, can a supertweeter give me that sound?

    I have a set of Hertz XL mids in the mail and from what I've read they don't sound as good crossed above 2.5khz because of the cone material and design...(blah blah blah) and I have yet to find a supertweeter that the manufacturer recommends to cross that low. They all want 3.5+ Will that be a deal breaker? Thanks for any advice.

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  8. Posted

    Well....to the first question, only pay what you think it's worth. As far as life span, the only think I would be afraid of are old subs with foam surrounds. Other than that go out and look and catch you a deal. The biggest thing about it is to KEEP LOOKING, day after day. When you're looking for used equipment you don't wanna miss out on something awesome.

    Oh and make sure you protect yourself during the transaction. Ask for more pictures, ask what they've run in the past (do you really want to buy a sub from someone who barely understands car audio...I don't) ask questions about the product. What you're looking for is knowledge. Unless it's a killer deal, you always want to buy from someone who knows what they have and how to use it.

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  11. Posted

    Im using 4 gauge wire, and im not driving the vehicle when I turn it off and play it loud it's just sitting there. @ An-i-no. Yea i just tried what you said and with no speakers connected it went into protect with the car running.

    Find a way to monitor the voltage at the amp's power/ground terminals. I bet my bottom dollar the voltage is doing something funky and the amp doesn't like it.

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  13. Posted

    Disconnect the speaker wires (but leave the RCA's in) and see if it protects with the car on.

    If it does, disconnect the RCA's and see if it protects with the car on.

    If both then you may be having voltage spikes (where the voltage shoots up for a split second) which makes the amp protect. Voltage spikes won't happen on just battery power so that would make sense. The reason I want you to disconnect the speaker wires and RCA's is to eliminate those from the equation.

    Another user on here had issues with his BC series amp not liking high voltage.

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  15. Posted

    This is typically an enclosure issue and not a setting issue unless you have your LPF set to high.

    If by deeper you mean lower then what he said. Tune lower. Deeper can mean a lot of things though so it would help if you described what you're looking for.

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  20. Posted

    havent changed my sig in years

    havent run dd in years

    so i wait a week and this is all that im left with?

    a bunch of personal attacks on me...? hmmmmmmmmmmm

    what a suprise

    still waiting...

    So out of curiosity, what do you run now?

    And what are you waiting for again?

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  21. Posted

    Look at the difference in the size of the slug, they can't be the same model.

    I think that's the direction the build house (Fi) is headed. Huge bumped back plates instead of the 3rd slug. Look at the SSD, the Q, the SP4, the new Ascendant drivers. They all share that trait and personally I think it's a great idea.

    Product recognition is awesome because in 5-10 years, (if the hobby is still big) everybody will remember those drivers that Fi built with the big ol steel asses.

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  23. Posted

    Ok Sencheezy instead of tuning new wire to the doors they cut the stock speaker wire behind the radio, tied new wire to it and ran that new wire to the amps. So the power goes from the amp, through the new wire and then through the stock wire to the doors.

    I would never do it that way but if that's all you paid for then....

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  24. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    Only issue I'm having is most of them are in some weird audio format that iTunes can't/Won't use.

    If you have Audacity or Virtual DJ by any chance you can open with either of those and save it as an MP3. Not sure how it will affect the quality though. I know with VDJ you can choose to record as a 320.

    EDIT: Was in a different tab and got ninja'd lol

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  25. Posted

    Chris, I have to ask, I'm looking at this subwoofer but I need your opinion on if they're ripping me off...

    http://kalecoauto.co...;products_id=33

    Here is a pic...

    motherofsubs.jpg

    I saw the price and was like this must be in Yen or something. Then saw the dollar sign. I think it's a great buy. Should do 180's out the box. laugh.png

    I need Chris's input since he knows much more about the industry than anybody here. He'll definitely know if its a good deal or not.

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