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About cruzer23

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  1. cruzer23

    SA-8 v.2 Prototype Video

    should stomp a 8w7 though price is gonna be around the same =/ but it can take more power!
  2. cruzer23

    Looking for a set of 8" midbass speaker

    i would recommend emailing both parts express and madisound the question and get their input as well. peerless sls 8 dayton rs225 exodus has a nice new 8" coming out soon
  3. if the xcon is in ur power range, its going to be loud and sound really good. i would take it over the btl myself
  4. cruzer23

    Help with sub decision plz

    skar wont sound as good as an icon or xcon imo. i vote icon or xcon depending on power u want to use
  5. cruzer23

    Enclosure design

    what are u using?
  6. cruzer23

    looking for a single sub set up

    ssa icon and fi q are the first two that come to mind. if u can go ported either will work fine. if u go sealed, try the FI Q with the high QTS option. both will handle the 950 watts no problem. i take it u cant build a box?
  7. cruzer23

    Which subs

    with a smaller box, ur low end will suffer. if thats ok for you, then go for it.
  8. cruzer23

    Which subs

    seems 1.76 is too big for a single 12 sealed, too small for two 12s sealed. at least for those u mentioned. FI Q says .8 sealed, so two of them would be below the 1.76, or 1.78 u have tho there isnt much difference between .8 and 1 cubic foot, maybe someone can tell u if it will be a big difference or not, or if the subs suggested for 1 cube would not sound optimal in the smaller box.
  9. cruzer23

    Where to put subs? What would u do?

    it was in 2008, the thread that i read. not sure with the xxls came out, but they were comparing the xbl2, lambada, and xls motors. xls was good, but wasnt excellent like the other two and featured over double the inductance, features less xmax, less power handling, etc. etc. no one is saying its bad, but its not that good compared to others. ill take the peerless xls or xxls just because it has a flat bl curve which gets rid of 70% of distortion alone, more than say the FI Q does...
  10. cruzer23

    Where to put subs? What would u do?

    Keep in mind there is more to it than THD. A shift in Bl and/or Cms will also affect the parameters of the driver, which will in turn affect the response of the driver. Some people consider a linear design that decreases the parameter shift more important in subwoofers than the distortion lowering mechanisms involved as we are less sensitive to distortion in this bandwidth. A properly handled inductance is likewise important for reasons other than distortion, as an improperly treated inductance can likewise affect or limit response within the intended/necessary bandwidth. I'm sure you already know all of this, and probably more than myself in regards to driver design. There's much more to the discussion but that really isn't pertinent. My simple point is that I think it's wrong to focus the discussion solely in terms of THD. That said it doesn't necessarily take an "exotic" motor design to achieve these goals. For example, companies such as Peerless and Scanspeak have consistently built high performance drivers without much in the way of "exotic" motor designs. A well executed standard motor topology can be designed to be more than sufficient at supporting a high performance loudspeaker. And while peerless makes great subs and all, its still proven that they are not as well designed as a sub featuring a flat bl curve. However, they do use shorting rings, and pole extenders to lower and linearize inductance. Where are these designs in subs that claim to be SQ like the FI Q? They are non existent. Yet 90% of any car audio forum will sit there and defend it and say its a GREAT SQ sub. While it does sound solid, it lacks anything special enough to be considered a SQ sub imho. i took more measurements and if im going to fit two 8" subs its going to have to be mounted at the back, just in front of the rear seat as thats 9" wide. between the driver and passenger seat where the actual console is, its only 8", minus 1.5" for wood, and it just wont happen. ill upload pics in a minute
  11. cruzer23

    Where to put subs? What would u do?

    lol im not scared to admit im wrong, i very well may be, but i have to have proof. i dont know a whole lot about car audio, i still have tons and tons to learn. i just read what i have and it makes sense to me in my opinion. guess ill just do the 8s console, try some sundown 8s then if i dont like them go for something more sq oriented, or vise versa
  12. cruzer23

    Where to put subs? What would u do?

    should read the link i posted, here is part of it "I hear all the time that it's all about putting the woofer in the right box. If it's put in the right box any woofer can sound good. While it is important to put the woofer in the right box, there are things that won't change no matter what box you have. You will always have non-linearities in the woofer that make it sound different at higher levels. As you put in power you get thermal distortion issues and the large distortion issues due to flux modulation. As the driver moves to high excursions you get variances in inductance and you get decreasing motor strength. If the woofer has not addressed these issues in the design stages, no enclosure is going to correct them. Attention should be paid to pulling heat from the coil quickly, lowering and linearizing inductance, providing a symmetrical BL curve, and lowering flux modulation. While the woofer needs to be in the right enclosure, a woofer that addresses all these issues and is put in the right enclosure will always be able to more accurately reproduce the signal input to it than a poorly designed woofer in the "right" enclosure. " why is there too much thought into this? i didnt put much thought into sitting the subs on the back seat, and they fly around everywhere, hitting the seat, hitting the doors, thats not putting enough thought into it... i wanted to do at least a single 10 ported, but i just cant figure it out. the box design i posted was going to net me around 1.1 cubic foot for a single 12 sealed, but no where does it open up enough to fit a 12" sub, only an 8. @denim, send me a 10" icon and ill buy a 10" ae av from diyma and we will find out whats the deal with keeping a sub under xmax? if u port a sub, ur supposed to use a SSF, its common knowledge. if u go sealed, 90% of the time u wont need a SSF, but its still safe to use one. Who uses their subs over xmax? spl guys? those guys dont care about sq. i emailed jacob about his sa-8s he said the only thing they got going for them sq wise is the hefty xmax. otherwise i would be better off waiting on his x-8. he didnt say the sa-8 would sound bad, nor do i think it would, but its not made for sq plain and simple
  13. cruzer23

    Where to put subs? What would u do?

    k ill read that 100 times if u read this once. http://www.aespeakers.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2440
  14. cruzer23

    Where to put subs? What would u do?

    Im not trying to "school" you on the xbl2 technology, clam down... so an xbl2 sub under its xmax, vs a sundown, fi, ssa sub under xmax, there is no difference in SQ or distortion? Why waste money on the xbl2 motor then? why not keep it simple and use a standard motor? and as far as the shiva goes, i was just refering to its rating, thats the only rating they give. it doesnt say give it 500 rms, it just says its thermal abilities. however if u want to get technical, here is what is posted directly on their website, in their application pdf "The Shiva-X2 is happy with any combination of 1-2 cubic feet for automotive applications. Fill the box with 100% polyfill (16oz. Per cubic foot of box) and power it with 500-1500W @ 4-ohms and you will be rewarded with incredible high-quality bass." Would they be stupid enough to tell u that u can use up to 1500 watts, if u will destroy the sub? I hope not