stiffler style

Gave you a 5.0 rating too ArmyKyle1

I just gave you a high rating

I can custom make anything as long as the appearance is stock. I'll see what I can fabricate in the panels and what I can fit up there. If not, then I'll be stuck using a very small format tweeter or going back to the doors with off-axis.

Way over my head, but it sure is interesting. Did you write those?

Can we consider both mounting locations? As in, which one would work best in the door (size isn't much of a constraint as I can fit most any tweeter here.) Which would work best in the sail panel? (1" or smaller) I've come to find that the stock tweeters are aimed across the car. I might have moved them a bit when I was looking but it seems they are aimed at the opposite seats headrest.

Okay. I didn't know if an 8" would open up better options or not. So should I keep looking at drivers or do you think the er18rnx is a stout driver for my goals and limitations? How would the u18rnx compare to the er18rnx? What are your thoughts on these tweeters: lpg 25nfa, seas prestige 27tffnc/g, morel mdt22, and sb acoustics sb26stac-c000-4? Opinions on any of those?

What kind of space for a box do you have? (measurements would be best).

I've found at publix there are cartons (almost like the little kid drinks with straws) of coconut milk. There are like 5 different "flavors." I didn't like just plain coconut milk but the mixtures taste pretty darn good to me. Speaking of queasy.. did you ever try drinking pasteurized egg whites? I've been drinking them for a month now and the taste is finally bearable.

My main concerns are midbass output and mating up with a tweeter. I haven't really seen a driver that has the good frequency range of the rnx but would have better midbass output.] I've been thinking too. I could (I say that with a little hesistation) fit an 8" driver however it would have to be right around 3" deep so I can mount it so there is a little room between it and the door card. The door card would be covering a little bit of the driver as well. Does that open up any better options off the top of your head as far as drivers are concerned? Maybe an 8" driver could provide the midbass output and the frequency range I am after.

Look into coconut milk. I've been drinking it lately and prefer it as an alternative to drinking a whole gallon of milk a day. It tastes pretty good too. So far my favorite is coconut milk with mango.

I feel pretty dumb now haha. I assumed the b&c was one way because it has the +- in front of the 6mm and the seas has 12mm (p-p). So the Seas er18rnx might be the best option. What do you think about the other seas drivers? such as the ca18rly, ca18rnx, or the u18rnx? The rly series seems to have a higher qts which might yield better midbass in a door.

What you say makes sense and seems logical. The xmax on the drivers is the same, but I assume the unloading would still be problematic and make this speaker unusable in this application. To be honest, before this thread I just had a list of drivers to check out as I learned more and more. I wrote down different drivers from builds I saw of people with similar goals and door applications and it happened to be on there. I was also looking at the Seas ca18rly which is pretty similiar to the er18rnx. I also like to scroll through madisound and parts-express when I'm bored.

I don't doubt what you say about the different drivers, but what specific qualities or t/s parameters show that the Seas will have good midbass? Or rather what shows the b&c will have no midbass? I'm confused. Doesn't bandwidth and frequency range go hand in hand? Or am I being misled by the seemingly good frequency response chart of the b&c? Not to say that the Seas isn't good as well.

kerfing is where it is at!

33hz/2 = 16.5hz (one octave down). Half octave so 16.5/2 = 8.25hz 33hz-8.25hz = 24.75hz or 25hz. So 25hz as the lowest. (Am I correct in this very simple math?) Your amps 28hz ssf is fine.

Ah okay. This is really helping me interpret drivers and compare now. I've read some very good reviews of the B&C 6NDL38. It's bit a different than the Seas driver... I think. Both 8 ohm. The Seas driver has a smoother rolloff. The B&C driver has steep rolloff around 4khz with a slight wiggle in the impedance curve at 1.5khz and 3khz. Same xmax for both drivers. The Seas has 4cm^2 more sd than the B&C. The B&C is rated to handle almost twice the rms power (Is that applicable at all for my application?). The Seas has 88.5db efficiency compared to the 92db efficiency of the B&C. Seas fs = 37hz. B&C fs = 72hz. Seas qts = .32. B&C qts = .42. That's what I gather that matters from comparing the drivers based on specs. It looks like the B&C would have better midbass output in the car door while still retaining a good, useable frequency range to pair with a tweeter. The biggest difference I see is the low fs/low qts of the seas and the high fs/high qts of the B&C. When is low qts/fs better than high qts/fs and vice versa? What am I missing here in comparing the drivers? Is there something else that I should consider? Of course, the price is different as well but I'll leave that to the side for now.

Funny as in ironic that I was looking at the same driver you recommended I take a look at. I looked at the frequency chart and it does seem like it can play high enough to work with a tweeter. Is the best way to look at resonance modes by looking at frequency charts? The qts is .32. Is that going to have any noticeable affects on the speakers ability to play in a door, considering the door is sealed as best as possible?

What affects breakup modes? Does the cone material have any affect on it or how a driver would sound? Funny you mention that driver as I have it pulled up on another tab from a couple days ago.

Keep up the good work man!

I'll check out the tweeter locations tomorrow and see what I can do with that area. If I'm following you correctly, I should determine the mounting location for the tweeter (door or sail panel) then find a tweeter then choose a midbass. Is this correct?

Some measurements on your part would be helpful. What's the maximum space you have to fit this box?

There are tweeters in the sails. They are 25mm. As far as I know they are on axis too. I not quite understanding what I did for it to appear in black. I'm not seeing any change. I did copy and paste from Impious' post. Now what about overlapping frequencies? Say the midbass rolls off hard at 2khz and the tweeter can effectively play down to 1.6khz. Do I cut the midbass at 1.6khz and high pass the tweeter at 1.6khz also or do I overlap? I would think overlapping would be negative towards sound quality. I understand that doing a 2-way specifically in the doors isn't going to have a nice response, but I'm definitely willing to experiment with it and the sail panel. If I did indeed try a 2-way (door only) would I just be loosing the top end?

Please tell me how ssa could possibly be ripping you off.

"a shallower slope would need to be crossed higher than a steeper slope." Are there any specific instances when using a shallower slope and higher crossover is better than a steeper slope and lower crossover and vice versa? Does one "blend" better than the other setup?

Punctuation. Please.