edouble101

I like where this is going, 16v is the cream of the crop! It would be badass if you used DCON or GCON and used 12-16 of them to show their capability in a large build like this.

Subwoofers are not efficient by themselves. Enclosure design is the biggest factor. Amplifier class has nothing to with sheer output necessarily. Amplifier design does have a huge impact when considering your electrical supply, which is what you meant I think. If these perform anything like the Ethos I am sure they will be great! For a daily setup, a 300 amp alt should be your first upgrade along with 4 runs on 1/0, 2 positive and 2 negative to the trunk. I'd recommend a good AGM under the hood, and 2-4 banks of caps in the trunk. That'll support 6-7k daily dipping into the high 12v range under extreme demands. If these Synergy amps are anything like the Twisted Sounds, a 3.5k amp would make ~7k on burps. My TS 2.8K had max output of over 4k and 3.5k daily! All for $500 shipped

Thanks for your interest! I currently have over 16 hours of build time on this enclosure, yikes!

An inverted BTL NEO may not be suitable for you for your little car. The speaker is not a shallow driver. 2 x 12" subwoofers would be your best option. You would want subs that are efficient and are designed for +35hz in a 4 cubes net; that's the biggest enclosure you'll be able to fit in your trunk, if you build it in your trunk. Soundrive Audio SDA3 12" would be what I would recommend for your "as much bass as possible" criteria. SDA3 #1 design characteristic is high efficiency. An 8" aero port tuned to 35hz, with 10" of the port external ( minimize net volume loss) facing the trunk lid, on 4k would be nasty. They are assembled in the USA as well if that is a concern. Message Soundrive on Facebook and see when they will be available for the next order, they are already sold out. http://store.soundriveaudio.com/subwoofers/80-soundrive-sda3-12-subwoofer.html

I have used a Twisted Sounds amplifier and it was excellent. I will certainly buy from them again if I have the need too.

The front baffle will be 'glassed inside the trunk. The only way to remove the enclosure will be to cut it out. I am certainly not a master at fiberglass but I fucked it up enough times to know what not to do

The front baffle will be fiberglass to the sides/top/bottom of the enclosure. I did it this way to maximize the enclosure volume. This enclosure is big, 10 cubes gross, 7.25 net, 120 inches of port area, tuned to 33hz.

This is the most time consuming enclosure that I have built. I hope it exceeds my expectations as well!

Checka checka check it out, port is almost ready for paint!

I hope the subsystem performs as I hope!

I was concerned that the magnet might hit the bottom of the enclosure. This was a difficult dimension to guessetimate! I was thinking about using 4" coil woofers, I am glad that I didn't because they would not have fit. I had to alter my port. I was going to use a port that was 20x6", now I am using 22x5.5", it fits better. I am also using 1/2" MDF for the port, not 3/4" plywood like the rest of the enclosure. I am almost ready for fiberglass and paint. I have to finish the port and modify the center brace.

They are local for me

I have been using two JAD800.4 amplifiers for ~6 months now. Excellent small and powerful amplifiers.

I'm glad this thread was resurrected. Crazy build!

The only thing that is holding me up now is the weather. It is 15 degrees here, cold! I have a lot more work to do on the port, then I have to fiberglass all the voids in the enclosure. I designed it that to maximize the volume. I received more installation items, as well as my Ohio Generator 300 amp alternator. This alternator is internally regulated at 15.2 volts. The only reason that I went this route is that the factory electrical system shuts down the alternator periodically and voltage drops to battery voltage. With this alternator I will not connect the factory molex connector to it. again, I am waiting for warmer weather to install this.

I am very impressed with the design of these speakers. They are bigger than I expected as well.

The port isnt close to being done. I'd explain but you'll have to wait and see! I got SUBS TODAY!!! Woot woot!!!

I started to work on my port. Trunk builds are the most difficult IMO. I want to keep the port external. The more I sink the port into the enclosure the less net airspace I have and the longer the port gets. I have to make the port longer (externally) but here's how it goes...

Thanks for checking out my build log! The stock air intake goes over the top of the stock battery. I am going to use a XS Power S3400 battery and large battery terminals. To get more space I installed a INJEN cold air intake. I had to retrofit this to my car. Stock INJEN installed

I think those SDA subs are going to be great.

Side bracing 1-1/2"

Ohio Generator

whats up guys. I've had a few build logs on this forum in the past and figured why not one more! This time around it is for my personal vehicle, a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport. Love this car. Goals for this build is foremost SQ, especially regarding a wide deep soundstage. Secondly to be able to hit +145db around 30hz. Gotta love dem lows! Concerning amplification, the limiting factor will be a single run of Sky High 1/0. This is over sized cable but will limit current draw to 300 amps max. I want a somewhat usable trunk and will be utilizing the spare tire well for the subwoofer enclosure. Front stage limitations include using stock door panels, stock a-pillars and no kick panel mods. I am going for a "stealth" SQ install. Here is the Sky High 1/0 wrapped in tesa tape going through the factory grommet into the cabin. Battery ground I am using a side rail to as the ground location for the amps.

It cuts back on some trunk area but there is still a decent amount