SubSam

dddddddayyuuuuuuuuuuuum that should get pretty retarded when you triple power reminds me of pipo's lol but I dont think thats quite what you are going for... He does represent the AA line well however

its still amazing. I agree its not my thing, I scoff at anyone who tunes higher than 33Hz lol, but the fact that nobody has done that until now with lots of people trying trunk installs, logically it must be impressive even if you know nothing about SPL builds

If you didn't actually DD-1 then you don't know if you were clipping. But I blew a couple N2s by burning up the tinsels playing too far below tuning on relatively low power. Got the non-hixmax coils and tuned lower now I have no issues. If you have any structural issues with your enclosure that would result in a higher effective tuning that would result in this same outcome

Wow he's a workhorse huh? I wish him a speedy recovery!

Check for any damage to the enclosure, ie loose baffles or air gaps. About a decade ago I bought a prefab ported box that had weak screws holding the rear panel on. Depending what direction I turned my car the box would bend and throw off the tuning bigtime (last prefab I ever will buy or sell). Only thing I can think of if its not a wiring issue.

I think if you bust the dustcap and send a picture of the gap to Fi they can tell you. Or maybe its obvious to the naked eye. But dustcaps are cheap n easy to replace so long as its removed correctly. Nick has a vid for that somewhere

Oh and if you go sealed on the Q15 I'll keeeeeeeeeeeeel you Smh can't begin to tell you how bad that erks me

Your electrical can't be too strong (at 12-15V), only too weak. So any alternators or battery upgrades you can afford do it. But big 3 and the heaviest cable you can get are my recommendations. BTW the Q15 is my all time favorite woofer. So enjoy, and tune lowwww. If you need some free box designs just post your maximum desired dimensions and I'd be glad to help you there. I do it for a living anyways so I don't mind doing a few for free here and there. You seem like you have done your homework so far; I'd be less inclined to volunteer if you were the typical know-it-all noob

UNIVERSAL MOTOR!!!!!! My 2 cents

DOUBLEPOST

Two 12s on 4k does it

Can't believe I didn't mention that. But yea the box is hella important

Sounds like your on the right track. The most important part of your system is the electrical, so make sure you have the wiring done correctly and enough juice to run everything. Look into a big battery, as big as you can fit, from whatever brand suits your budget. Most will do the job. Any additional batteries to be mounted anywhere in the passenger cabin are helpful and encouraged. Big badass cable throughout. Stick with a reputable amplifier brand like AQ, Crescendo, Sundown, Cactus, and buy the biggest one you can afford and hang on bc that N2 will do serious work. The more steps you skip the higher the chance something will break and I guarantee it'll cost more in the end that way. A "safer" way to get louder is to add more woofers on less power but it costs more money and takes up more room. But two Q 15s on 1000 would be like a btl 15 on 2k

Now I'm jealous of your aeroport

My blue chrome stickers have held up great. It's not a big deal to me, I like the white Fi just fine, but color matching can really add something to the install. I'm sure somebody has to appreciate the choices available. On another similar note can you get the AA logo in different colors?

D2 coils read 1.7-1.8 ohms Not if it's a coil from Fi. thats what all my D2 BTL N2s read.... 1.7 each coil Mine also read 1.6 but my DMM leads read .2 ohms DCR which leaves 1.4 net

Model the parameters yourself if you care so much. Lazy mofo

Same as above. Dry no mayo. I hate mayo. But if ur talkin BtLs I got two D212s in 4.4 cubic tuned to 26 Hz. Four aeroports, six runs of 0ga running from two shuriken bt35s under the hood to four XS D1200s in the trunk. Got a 270 amp Mechman alternator also. Amplification provided by two zenon 2ks strapped and a mb quart 4ch. Box was built into the trunk, fiberglassed in from both sides, totally sealed off. Why do you ask?

Spend $150 on a SMD DD-1 and never question your amp gain ever again Ive set like 30 amps with mine, every system shows a gain in loudness and clarity, even if the gains were higher initially I can play my N2s on 4k all day (3600 clamped) and they barely get warm, but they do, especially on loooong continuous basslines for like 30 minutes straight. Got a good alt, so my amps get plenty of voltage, and my subs see no distortion. Before when I just ran a single N215 I remember playing with my gains on a daily basis trying to tweak things. Now I can set it and forget it

I love my N2s too! I'm jealous of your NS-1 tho. I do a 148.2 @27 Hz with my D212s tho. Love that low end! I need more power however Sorry for the shirt placement fail

That vid is real good, he's real careful with the glue application. Solid, clean glue beads make for a fast, professional looking recone.

I was gonna say just use a piece of wood and weigh it down, then put the gasket on and spray accelerator under the surround Even my BtL N212 recone was like that; I was petrified I would ruin it. But CA glue works miracles you can't mess it up

I was gonna say if you have a new basket, 15 minutes. Using the same basket, an hour tops. But i thought you meant doing it yourself

So if i were to add an option what would be the smartest choice? Cooling? Even the most efficient speakers are only about 1% efficient so definitely shoot for the best cooling possible. Fi/AA are known for having the best cooling

yea don't forget the glue, my dumbass always forgets those little details. you don't want to have a half-built woofer sitting around teasing you with its bass potential