SubSam

Oh and how could I forget? SMD DD-1 FTMFWIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIN. O-scopes are way overrated. I feel like a total tool posting a meade link up but i swear by this device. If your amps are rated at 1% THD or less, this is the best way to get the most from your amplifier while straining your electrical support the least.

Does anybody look at Q alignment anymore? Personally I think the only reason to buy a woofer outside your price/power range is if you plan to upgrade your amp at any point. As for a daily driving driver that loves the power range you offer, go for a Q or SSD, as the frequency response is more favorable in these woofers, which will result in a higher output over a larger range of frequencies. The BtL (which I love) is built to handle higher power, it won't sound bad underpowered by any means, but it wouldn't be my first choice if I was you. Between the SSD and the Q, I would vote for the Q simply for its lower Vas (stiffer cone) which allows for a marginally smaller enclosure, while being really easy to tune in a ported enclosure. Obviously some of these woofers in the higher power range have higher motor force and better potential for output, but can't make up for the difference compared to a Q in the power range youre discussing. Q15s are still my favorite woofer ever, even though I have two BtL 12s at the moment. I run BtLs simply so i can throw 3.5k at each if them all day. My Q took 1500 daily for a year, now my buddy has it on the same amp (saz-1500, good recommendation whomever that was), and hasn't had any issues in another year and a half. As for SSA, you can't really go wrong here either. For the rated power, I think a Zcon is about the best woofer you can buy. Never ran them myself so i can't compare their relative sturdiness againt a BtL but if you ask Tuffguy40 about his four 18s I'm sure he will tell you they are champions, literally and figuratively. I guess I'm biased to the Q but i think you will be happy no matter which Fi model gets picked out of the hat. ::braces for rebuttal::

Lol we all do that. We wouldn't want to stop bothering him and give him more time to work on building subs and doing recones now would we?

Anybody who has dealt with ANY other company (except maybe Jacob @ sundown) immediately realizes that the customer support from Fi/AA/SSA is the best out there. Anytime you offer speakers that can handle what we collectively throw at Fi woofers is bound to see a few failures, not due to defects on their end but because of improper installation. You don't have to be a complete rookie to make the sort of mistakes that would result in your woofer blowing, ie I was fiddling with my subsonic filter bc I was planning on competing in psychlone for an event, forgot to set it back where it was supposed to be and burned the tinsels playing some Shitty dubstep with a 22 Hz bassline. I contacted Nick, he correctly guessed my tinsels had blown, so now I know it was my fault. My tuning was low, but not low enough apparently, so I rebuilt how I saw fit. I considered throwing sundown z v3 soft parts in, as I've seen great results from the hybrid, but i thought about that for about one second and I remembered that one can really only trust the coils on the AA/Fi woofers to handle the biggest power loads. After plenty of abuse at 4k+ rms my coil on my N215 is a little dark but from recent videos I've seen that may just be the color of the epoxy on the coil. If you know rocketboy you've seen him throwing 8k rms at an SMD 18 all day. basically minimal damage where it matters most. One can't ask for more.

Hey is there a pole vent on these or a solid back plate

Oh nvm I guess you went with the SP4 already. Serves me right for not reading to the end... 4 18s on sound digital power I can't wait to see that

Lol. Unfortunately, both sound like they'd fit my application- 4 18's (walled) on 2 SD5k's (6000w each). 4 18's walled needs some serious volume... I'd immediately vote for the sub with lower Vas but that's just me

Would a bj from Megan fox be a good use of your time?

lol "sharper teeth" I'm gonna have to use that expression from now on. But it goes without saying: awesome build. I would drive to Montana from CT just to hear that. To Fi: shame on you! (for being so humble about the N3s musicality) Not too many better examples of a video being worth 10000 words than that demo video

That a IA Warden behind the DD

Oh no worries, I would be the first to blame myself, as no speaker will break itself; I was defending Fi against my desire for sundown soft parts. I decided to get another Fi recone, skipping the high xmax coil this time. I got a curious tip about the 8ga wires I run to the woofer from another person who ran into the same issue, so I will also solder direct leads this time as the clamp terminals offer little contact surface and/or stability for the wire. I actually didn't consider that before, I will let everyone know if I see an improvement. Either way, less voltage drop, less heat, more dbs, so it will be an improvement.

I don't see how your frying up tinsels with only 1600RMS? I have half the tinsels has a BTL, and has put upwards of 2k on my Q, without any problems. I was literately reaching mechanical limits and clipping(I didn't know at the time, I oscoped my headunit to find it clips at my normal listening volume) and hasn't had any problems. So having double the tinsels and same power, I don't see how your frying them. Me either lol my UFO BtL had zero issues on the same amp, now with gains lowered and 150 amp fuses in tact on 12.8V MINIMUM (dropping from 14.8V) I did burp as few times on a saz-3500 along with some 30 sec bassrace on the first one (31 Hz), might've done some damage there but I babied the 2nd and cooked the tinsels playing "love for money" after a few 23 Hz burps with 26Hz tuning unclipped. Pressure tested the box to 30 psi with the ports blocked, was still convinced I must have had a baffle issue so I tore it up and rebuilt it recently, I'm nervous to try again. Must be as phase issue, I even built a loading wall for cone control but scrapped it for now as it takes away from aesthetic appeal which I do get judged on. (I like to compete in every class I can, with no intention of winning however). The coils are perfect, just the tinsels pop the spiders out playing too low. Sewn in, the tinsels must see more heat or something. No hate on Fi either, I am a loyal customer personally with two Q15s and this my 2nd BtL. I install for fun and only recommend Fi SSDs and Qs to my friends, along with a few Sundown SAs mixed in the bunch (SA-12 = super easy box design/tuning for a beastly low end), never heard a complaint from a single person. I'm sure I am somehow to blame for my fail; my box is complicated mostly due to space restrictions and aesthetic considerations (4.84 cubic net, in the trunk, with a custom amp rack, AND a full size spare- truly a daily driver). But at this point I will try anything.

Ever tried one of the new N2 BtL's? I ran into the same problem with my N215; originally had the box tuned to 31 and had my tinsels fry up. Thinking I was playing below tuning too much and losing things mechanically, I tuned down to 26, same problem. Running a 2k zenon board, clamped 1600 watts RMS at 1.18 ohms (D2 coil/motor). I wanted to try a Z v3 recone, I was very impressed with the vids on that. Any easy solution? Or would I require spacers and a new frame etc.?

lol I know too many nick morgans, but happy bday anyways... your a good rep for your company despite the eggheads out there

Any reason for the price increase? I'm sure there's a design feature that probably makes it harder/more costly to build, but would the price difference versus extra features warrant getting the N2 recone over the gen 2?

Theres a recone kit for N2s now... maybe they're not the same?

Yea thats cruelty right there... granted capri sun isn't the best beverage but if she wanted another drink what's the harm in a little water? I woulda been pissed too... I meant good parents who are strict about their kids doing their best in school and who teach kids to do everything balls out... there's no room for half-assing in the real world. The sooner you learn that success takes all your effort and the things you enjoy come second (including sleep), the better off you are in life

I was more or less defending the offended person taking the high road by pointing out that a lot of people out there call the kettle black alllllllll day long... But as far as education goes, or life even for that matter, its supremely important to have a whip behind you, so long as its making you a higher functioning thus more greatly contributing member of society. I bet that 75% (same %- coincidence?) of Americans would disagree and say that strict upbringing and parental coercion don't help. That's why America is #36 and Japan is #3 and Finland is #1. (by education) Laziness, combined with distraction, and a general lethargy for anything non-stimulating don't help matters; no argument there. Youth is wasted on the young, and that holds truer here than anywhere.

Back when the BtL N2 was still on pre-order Scott, with no obligation to, called... yes called (on the phone!) my fiance, whom had placed the order, and gave her a full update as to the progress of the order. Boy was she surprised but even she was impressed by that level of customer service and she couldn't give a rats ass about anything car audio related. I don't think you can ask for them to walk on water just for you, but they damn well try. You probably think its all bells and whistles and big brass cranks behind every storefront; really there's no magic out there buddy. only too few people skilled enough at doing what they do... if all customers were like you they'd probably say F*** it screw yall and just make woofers for their own personal use and then all the people who were satisfied get screwed too. Including you. You know you were satisfied. That's why ur so mad. A little faith goes a long way.

Strictly from a 1k watt perspective he had a point with the alpine. Buy if a BtL is in the mix that alpine would be toast. AQ 2000 watts is no joke however.

Lol yes crescendo does, and yes the 4500 is. Why would a company hire a circuitry company to make all their boards but one?

If money wasn't an issue I would recommend a jl 1000/1v2 as its rated 1000 watts from 1.33 to 4 ohms and its superb efficiency, or a sundown sax1200 for its overall perfect design/ sound reproduction. For a less expensive option the alpine is especially nice due to its size and processing. Looks cool too. For the best value, the AQ dollar for dollar. Ugly, but rugged. I'm not arguing about anything, just trying to put extra options on the table for him. I'm glad you had such good luck with the alpine and look to recommend it.

AQ has diesel amps... robust is a good word. It's a Ubuy board like Arc and Soundstream; one of the best. RF makes great amps too, but RF isn't a zenon. If you want a zenon board amp go for Sundown, Crescendo, SoundDigital, Atomic, DD, or Formula X. I've been emailing Formula X about their 7k zenon based amplifier for a month with no reply. Also Crescendo's 3k isn't available right now. And since the other companies that utilize a zenon board are effin expensive, AQ might be ur best bet.

Lol and the hammer drops... any reason for the switch to us-made vs foreign-made? Just curious

Car audio shops make their money because they can do things that most wouldn't tackle in shorter periods of time and with a labor warranty. It sucked being a car audio installer for so long as its hard work but when you see how poorly some people wire their cars its no wonder so many people come to a shop for help. I like how one of the above pictures shows the chassis ground at a main strut. You can ground elsewhere but you run the risk of running charge through bad welds. (the electricity travels through the shortest route to the amplifier ground via the chassis metal and bolts, welds, paint, and whatever else shouldnt get in the way) If you want to ground closer to the battery, check the resistance (with a voltmeter) from that ground point to the nearest confirmed "good ground" and compare with other locations. The spot with the least resistance is the best spot. The big 3 can really be the big 4 depending how the stock alternator ground is configured. In most cases, the alternator has a very good ground to the engine block, but for those with an 8ga or 4ga stock alternator ground you should upgrade that wire to complete the circuit. Multiple ground leads are acceptable if you need it. I, for example, had so little clearance between my engine block and air intake that I had to snake three 4ga grounds around the tubing, all terminating at the communal ground point. I added an additional ground on the opposite side of the block, so the electricity can decide on its own what path it chooses (them electrons looove having 'options' ie more conductive conduits and/or less overall resistance).