cjackxiii

After researching some more on the internet I am utterly, completely lost. I'm eager to build the box and throw these bad boys in I just cant figure out how to calculate the dimension of the port. Help?

How about this How can I check if the port wall I have measured out to 31 1/2" correctly tunes the port to 32hz? And thank you guys for your patience.

Ha ha sorry about that I posted the wrong picture, and its going in the trunk of a 1970 cutlass 2-BTL 12 4.9 cubic feet @ 32Hz Sorry for the confusion. Im just unsure how to properly tune a port. I threw in my dimensions in another website and it gave me these dimensions.

I am about to build a box for my incoming BTLs. I reviewed the cut out sheet for 1 BTL that is provided on the forum but was unsure as how a box for 2 BTLs is supposed to look like. I am unfamiliar with how the different dimensions in a ported box affect the performance of the sub so I would appreciate some input. 2-BTL 12 4.9 cubic feet @ 32Hz

Multiple alternators can exist on the same circuit, it just depends on the vehicle. Many newer vehicles have the alternators voltage regulated (or in part) by the vehicle's computer. Often when adding multiple alternators to newer vehicles you must use the additional alternator on a separate circuit. Most older vehicles like yours do not have these issues and it's a simple add on where both alts can be connected. Chances are for your power needs you're best bet is to get 1 high output alternator and a few good batteries in back. Thanks for the great insight. I went ahead and purchased a 270 amp alternator from dc power and will probably try and weld together some brackets to replace my ac with the stock alternator to run dual alts. Your explanation help clear up some confusion.

Thanks for all the great input, as soon as i got everything going ill post pics. Has anyone ever lined their trunk with fiberglass?

What sort of equipment did you order? I am relatively new to high output sound systems so I am unfamiliar how you would get a steady voltage out of a car's electrical system. Well at first I only had 4 yellow tops and a dual alternator kit.... I doubled my battery storage and am going triple alts. I have the extra alternator, I'm just waiting on the bracket. If your goal is to keep voltage above your batteries float voltage you must have enough alternator power to keep up with your load(s). Who are you going through for your alternator kit?

Definatly. Unless it blows up

Do you have any personal experience with any of these different brands of batteries?

I already own the amp, actually owned it for a couple of years, I just haven't had a car I wanted to put it in. I'm planning on doing a ported enclosure and it will fit. When you ask for the front stage are you referring to the mids and highs? If so for my mids I have a couple of three-way and a couple two-way 6x9's and a couple of assorted mid range amps to choose from. I'm not as particular as with the sub setup. I've been covetingr Fi's BTLs for the past couple years. Other than dynamat or raamat is there any other recommendations on deadner mat to use.

Thanks for the quick response. I'm planning on babying my system until I'm able to upgrade my belt system. While talking it over with Stan (good guy highly recommend) at dc power the slippage wouldn't occur at low-mid rpm range and wouldn't impact the high output significantly. I also didn't want to start of with a smaller amp then later want to upgrade and have to deal with selling the old inadequate amplifier. Will keeping it down protect the amp+speakers from damage? Shogan-again, I appreciate your fast response

I am currently in the process of building my dream system in my dream car (1970 olds). My experience with sound systems is limited to small amps and subs, never anything as big or expensive as I am attempting now. I am purchasing 2 12'' dual 1 ohm BTLs (as an spl driver) with all the trimmings and the option in the recommended enclosure shown in the cut sheets that are provided in the Tech forum. The amp I'm going to be using to power these beasts is a T40001bd. T40001bd - 4000 watt 1-channel amplifer 1500x1 @ 4 ohms, 3000x1 @ 2 ohms, 4000x1 @ 1 ohms. I just ordered a 270 amp alternator that does 120 amps (or 170) in idle from dc alternators (as recommended from someone in these forums). Unfortunately until I can get enough coin (1200+ what I was quoted from http://www.marchperf.com) to upgrade my system from a v belt setup to a serpantine belt system at high rmps the alternator will most likely slip impacting its high end output. I was planning on also throwing in a couple regular automotive batteries I have sitting around as a buffer between the alternator peeks and the amplifier's demand. Now what I want to know is what do the sound system gurus in this forum recommend as any additions I should take in order to get my moneys worth out of my setup and not damage the speakers and amps. I have read through numerous posts in these forums and a bunch of terms are thrown around that upon reading have hunted down the definitions for but with such a recent introductions to the possible dangers in these high end systems I just wanted to touch base with you guys in case I'm missing something.

What sort of equipment did you order? I am relatively new to high output sound systems so I am unfamiliar how you would get a steady voltage out of a car's electrical system.

If you order a dual 1 ohm BTL without the universal option is there any way to convert it into a dual 2?

Read the post above yours and email any questions or concerns to that email address. Yeah, my question was with his inclusion of the word local. I wasn't sure if me being out of state would be a problem. Thanks for the quick reply.