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mariobjones

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Posts posted by mariobjones


  1. Ok, I'll state this once again. Kicker freq. 30-500, I will probably cross at 125, since the cadence mids range from 125-1.5k, and tweets so on. If you guys look at the title of the tread, it says HELP lol I'm very aware of how difficult this will be. And yeah, I will most likely have to run active. And speakers for rear deck won't be useless if I don't listen to BASS all the time. But thanks for the feedback. I'm looking into picking up the Rockford 360 tomorrow, and a couple xovers and I'll let you guys know the outcome.


  2. Just looked at the neos they say only down to 80HZ

    im good i need 20hz optimal or at least 40hz

    It seems as though your looking to put in 8" subs instead of 8" midbass drivers in your doors, you wont find any mids that will due 20-40hz. That is sub bass duty and not midbass duty.

    yeah, thats why I said I'd use they kicker 8's lol 30-500hz low-end and mid end. As for my cadence MIDS they only pick up 125-10k for of a mid-high woofer. So kickers will run my 200 and under Hz, cadence will run my 200-kHz, and tweets 1k-20k Hz. does tat make more sense?? I wont listen to my woofers every time I'm in car.


  3. Hey "the end" stop replying to so many post, everytime i see your avatar video i get all dstracted and lose all my thoughts! haha :wub:

    haha same here

    Make it three over here. :P

    +4

    lol

    I didnt make a pod for my 8's, just cut a hole, since they were supposed to be IB drivers i believe.

    Im thinking a sub instead of a comp would sound better though only because under 50HZ they dont perform to well, could be because of the IB as well.

    +5

    +6 hahaa


  4. Ok you guys, decided I would try to put 8" Kicker Comps in each door, along with my cadance mids and titanium super tweets. For full-range sound in doors (lows, mids, and highs) it will be in a new sealed fiberglassed pod mounted to door. Any input?? I've heard someone use them (kicker 8') for their mids, so I thought id try em out. I;ll let you all know how it'll sound.


  5. O.k. I've had my Peal-N-Seal, well Protect-O-Wrap (same company as AudioWrap, but same a PNS) in my van for over 3 years. It has just now started to come down. All I did when applying it was clean the metal with alcohol, then wiped it down again with windex.

    Did it work? 1 layer cut the rippling of my roof to about half of what it was beforehand.

    But, I would not recommend it for overhead or sides of a vehicle. If not applied right it will come off within a week after applying it. If anybody is going to use it, use it on the floors only.

    It also will not work for everybody. For some reason some vehicles it will stick to and may never come down, others it'll come down real quick.

    You can use a better glue, in a spray, that will make it adhere better. I can't remember what it's called right off the bat now.

    A lot of people have used it and have had success with it. Usually those that haven't had success with it have installed it wrong. Sometimes, like now, there'll be a person that installed it the right way, and had no luck with it. Which I am sorry to hear about.

    And btw, there ain't no damn smell from the stuff. Well, in my case there hasn't been. Maybe that can be different for everybody also.

    And yea. I'll be using it again. Why? Well, since I redo my system aprox every 4 years, I can redo the deadener also, if needed. 4 layers of PNS or Protect-o-wrap for my whole van would cost about 1/4, maybe 1/2, the price of anything else. 4 layers will give me the same as 2 layers of anything else. I can spend the left over money on other things my needs (a v8 swap)

    Exactly what I stated. And x2 on the smelll rumor


  6. Not only does it fall off, but even when applied "right" it doesn't deaden for crap either.

    Why is everyone thinking i didnt apply it right?? I did, it just doesnt work!!

    Because people want to believe that the way they installed theirs is going to prevent the same outcome. Some advocate heat - which only accelerates the deterioration of the rubber compounds added to the asphalt to increase its heat tolerance. Others, aggressive solvents or using rollers, neither of which make any difference. "Crap shoot" is a pretty good description. Asphalt will either melt or the VOC's will outgas leaving inert crud behind.

    As has been pointed out already, asphalt isn't a vibration damper. If it stopped rattles it did so by mobilizing the moving parts - duct tape would work as well. If it increased SPL, it did so by sealing air leaks. Asphalt is an inherently unstable material and a poor choice for this application. Installation has very little to do with anything. There have been several asphalt fans who have used incredibly meticulous and elaborate procedures and still ended up with failures.

    The key is analyzing the problem you are trying to solve and devising a solution that addresses it directly. If the problem is the trunk lid inner skin rattling against the outer skin, a few dabs of RTV silicone will solve the problem. If it's a rattling license plate, 25 cents worth of closed cell foam glued to the back of the plate will be more effective than 10 layers of vibration damper inside the trunk or trunk lid. Whatever the problem, asphalt isn't the solution - unless the problem is roofing related :)

    NICE!!

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