dbsupra

Death race 3 filming in Missouri? Lol. Looks great on the inside. Does that go thru any metal bracing or just raw sheet metal?

Its on my channel. Or do you mean like email? Its 1080p and rather large

I really like the G63 AMG. Its a little out of my price range and I really don't need a 6th car lol.That being said, is yours the turbo model? I'm not up on my Benz these days. Thanks for the comment. I always seem to equate everything back to cars lol

Here is a vid I made of Shizzzon's runs at the Meca show this weekend.

Just because it might sound subjectively good now, doesn't mean it couldn't sound better I've got some other issues with the install. But I'm sure Randall is happy so I figured it wasn't worth the argument.... I know what you are saying. Several years ago when my supra was doing 440hp at the wheels it was pretty fast. I gave several people a ride and they couldn't believe how fast it was. Fastest car they have ever been in. That summer at a supra event my buddy in GA just finished his. Was doing 620hp on the dyno. I went for a ride and it was a different world. Got back in mine and it felt broke lol. Needless to say I upgraded mine soon after. That was around 2006. I think I'm on upgrade #4 and now its in pieces in the garage again.

Sounds cool Steve. You doing under the seat build or console? In for pics

I thought the exact same thing for a while. My Craftsman table is fine, my Irwin blades are fine. Not like I do this everyday. I got a $500 gift card to Lowes. I bought a Porter Cable $600 saw and Diablo blades. Let me tell you it's a whole new world. I'm not saying go drop a lot of cash on equipment, but you would be surprised the difference, even doing it as a hobby. You would also be surprised how many random things you build just because you want to lol. At a minimum, I would still go ahead and get some quality blades. Most important is running the correct tooth blade for what you are cutting. On a side note, did you ever get the wood?

I just ran the numbers. Currently at 7.95 cubes at 30hz Overall it does better numbers and wicked flat in the range I listen to. Not that it was peaky before, but it's even better now. Didn't have time to do sealed on the dash again. Would like to have compared those numbers. Also didn't get a chance to play with the seats or any little trickery like that. Thinking about maybe sealing around the enclosure but since it is just temporary I don't know that I will. Next step is get the electrical in order. More batteries and gonna have to come up with a custom alternator setup. Sean thinks my numbers will improve if I can maintain voltage. Although clamping on a 30hz tone I was pulling 240 amps on a 2k amp lol. It is much lower peak on music however. I was beating on it pretty hard.

First thanks to Shizzzon for helping me and supplying the meter. I wanted to test it as it sits. We didn't do any testing with positions, change amp gain, etc. Everything is set pretty low as of now due to partially my electrical and me starting on the conservative side until I get a better feel of it. Noone makes an alternator for my truck so I will have to do a custom bracket to mount one. Enclosure is a 8.5 cf3 tuned to 29hz or so with a 18 Fi Q on a sundown 2000d. It is in no way built for numbers, just wanted to see where it is to start with. We played with some tones to find the peaks and went from there. Enough jabber here is what we found. Sealed on the dash 142.7 at 31hz Driver door open on the dash 143.3 at 32hz Sealed in the kick 142.4hz at 29hz and 142.5 at 41hz Driver door open in the kick 143.8 at 31hz and 144.6 at 48hz Avg on music 27hz 139.4 31hz 140.8 39hz 142.1 Overall I'm pretty happy. I'm sure that is more in it, but for first testing I was hoping for over a 40 at or around 30hz and peak at 145 or better. I made the first one even higher than I expected and almost made my 2nd goal. Not bad for what it is I think and sounds good on music. It's only up from here. Something wicked this way comes.

Stinger voltmeter is fine. I calibrated it with my fluke and ran them parallel to test and works fine. Some people hate them for whatever reason. Best material in my opinion is 13 ply baltic birch. It only comes in 5' sheets and is a little pricey compared to other materials. Also not that easy to find. Depends on where you live. MDF is ok. Most birch from lowes, home depot etc is pine with birch veneer. 99 percent of it has voids. Some people use it anyway and either layer or brace the hell out of it. Arauco ply is another option and is void free. Downside to MDF is it soaks water like a sponge. Easy to chip and break corners. Dust is funky. You have to predrill holes and easy to strip. Upside is it is easy to work with. Void free. Cheap. Can get about anywhere.

Well after a sub swap Sean and I metered again. I had to change the bracing due to the depth of the motor. It displaces a little more and raised tuning a smidge. Havent ran the numbers yet. Since I'm just running 1 it is currently wired at .5 ohm. I know on music it is louder and my windshield flexes a lot more along with my entire steering column now. My peak score doesnt show much though. Measuring meca style at the headrest my peak score was 144.4 at 38hz. The good news is from 30hz to 40hz only deviates .4 db. From 30 to 37hz only deviates .1 db

What are the dimensions of the port. I mean the external height and width.

haha, glad it made it to you safe brother. I notice the same thing actually, swapping from the zcon to the evil. Was quite a big difference in voltage lol. Yeah I actually met up with him in BG when he went with his buddy to pick up the truck. Since it was in driving distance I chose that route instead of shipping.

Let's see a pic of your current box.

My PPI amp has balanced input stage, but they are not RCA connectors. Being as I don't have a balanced ouput I just run normal RCAs. And while on the subject of RCA cables and noise, DC (i.e. power cable) will not induce noise running next to the signal cables.

Pics as promised. Little brother, meet big brother. Hmm. Slight problem here. New one is ~12" depth. Quick fix. Cut out the center brace, add 2x4 on each side. I would have used more dowel rod or threaded rod. But being that it is carpeted it and I had neither of those, this is what I did. I hate to leave the little peg legs, but they are expoxied to the wall. It's funny how much bigger the enclosure looks up on its side. It's a pita to unbolt it from the floor to move it. Aside from being double walled and heavy as hell. With the new sub it's over near 300lb. Even though it's a pain I'd rather have it all bolted down and not have that flying around inside if something were to happen. That's all I have for now. Maybe some more pics and vids later. Overall I'm very happy!

Well I got the new sub in. Not without some issues of course. So much for "a quick swap". First impression. Wow a lot louder. Maybe a bit louder onthe lows but overall sound quality very similar. Second impression wtf is up with my voltage! I was holding about 1500 rpm and barely had my remote gain at a 1/4 and was dropping into the 11's. Before I never saw 12's. Oops. I got too excited and wired it up like I had it before. Since these are different coils I'm running .5 ohm nominal now. That would explain it lol. Pics later of the fun times we had tonight.

Its at asylum from 1-6 Not sure if I am going yet.

Wow. I'm not sure where you got the idea it is best in a 4th order bandpass. 4th order is just a ported enclosure which is the specs you quoted. A 4th order bandpass is something different which has a rear sealed and ported front chamber. If you build it to the specs you quoted with the ported/sealed and randomly tune it to 65hz like your buddy says expect it to sound like crap. Save your time and just poke a couple holes in the shipping box to run some speaker wire and drop it in the trunk. Would probably sound better.

On Michael's truck the I and part of the K was wrinkled and twisted a hair. I tried to fix it but didn't help much. Probably partially my fault. It was a sunny day and got excited to put it on and the window was a little cold still. On my truck I preheated the glass with a heat gun and came out perfect. I may pick up another team IAK for Michael when I see you next. It works for now though. Thanks for sending them!

What would the final ohm difference be?

Works for me on the pc. Does not on mobile however.

You fuse according to the wire you use, not the amp.Back up a bit there. I agree fuse for the wire when you are talking about fusing the wire at the battery. Which should be as close to the battery as possible. However, when you are talking about fusing for the amp that is something different. Most mfg will spec what size fuse to use for a particular amp and you want that close to the amp. If you run an amp with internal fusing that is not required, only fusing for the wire at the battery.

Michael and I will be there just 1 car. I think you have to pre register by a certain date? Also need a speed pass but is that only on the friday of the event?

Looking good chop! What coil dd you end up going with?