Kangaroux
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Posts posted by Kangaroux
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From my experience, Winisd, bass box pro and other modeling softwares are great for learning how changing variables like box size and tuning affects frequency response, but you shouldn't rely on them too much. Modeling software is only accurate for modeling frequency response in an open environment, i.e. not inside a vehicle. For example, here's a modeled curve of how my setup would sound were it not in a vehicle:
Peaks @ 50hz and by 30hz would experience heavy roll off. In reality, it peaks at 42hz on the meter and is loudest by ear in the low 30's and doesn't really begin to roll off until <26hz. Had I just gone by what the freq. response curve looked like, I would have never expected the setup to perform so well on the low end.
What I'm getting at with this is, understanding how changing variables in an enclosure will affect the sound is more important than knowing how it will sound in an ideal environment. Unless you have ways of measuring a vehicle's transfer function (how the enclosure's environment will further modify freq. response) , modeling software won't tell you much useful information.
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Damn nice price on that sp4...if I wasn't downgrading I would grab that in a heartbeat. GLWS
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I can make you one if you give me some dimensions
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^^^^
The xcon is a dual 2 ohm, bought it LNIB from godsmack in the summer and I've taken good care of it
Looking to get $350 shipped firm or trades for a 12/15 + cash. Ideally I would like a 12 that is 4th order friendly, something like an obsidian 12 or sundown 12. Functionally this sub is a 10/10. It was running off my 2200 @ 1 ohm so it wasn't really being pushed to its limits; never smelled coil from it.
Cosmetically it's a 9/10 just cause it's used and has some very minor wear on the bottom of the motor.
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If you guys wanna know the reasons as to why it's the better amp, PM pro-rabbit on here and he'll give you the details...
You made the statement.....why can't you give us the details?
Because I don't remember the exact specifics and I don't want to go off spouting false info...dustin has done the testing on them and he has the details, which is why I said to PM him.
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If you guys wanna know the reasons as to why it's the better amp, PM pro-rabbit on here and he'll give you the details...
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The AQ is the better amp by far...
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Did 2 rounds of alcohol on each connector (the one on the faceplate and the one on the headunit itself). Waited 5 minutes after putting on the alcohol to wipe it off. After that I blow dried each connector for about a minute until it was completely dry and boom...it works flawlessly. Thanks guys
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Use 91% rubbing alcohol with a qtip. Then let it dry. Then use an eraser and blow out the shaving
I actually asked Robin what he thought and he suggested rubbing alcohol as well lol. I'll bring the HU in for surgery tomorrow and let it sit overnight to dry. I really hope it's just something funky with the connectors...if I can't get a new faceplate that means finding a whole new HU which I don't have the cash for right now
You could also just deal with it for a while... Or buy my previous pioneer hu that's sitting in my closet
Problem is I can't deal with it...all I can do is change the volume lol. I can't access any menus without shutting off the headunit, all I can do is go forward or backward a song and adjust the volume.
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Rules of thumb are usually based off theory, and they are theories for a reason....
No, rules of thumb are approximations that morons always misapply. There is not a rule of thumb in car audio that is correct. Anyone who states one is someone whose advice you should ignore.
....You can test as much as you want but common sense and fundamental knowledge of acoustics and physics will go much further imo...
I have no idea what you are saying. How do you think that these theorems were proved? By testing. Sure once mathematics are proven you don't need to verify ALL the details but if you don't apply a rudimentary understanding then even applying the physics in the first place is wrong.
And Chop, it's REALLY simple. Your port shouldn't exceed a port velocity that bothers YOU. You can surely measure what YOU don't like and EASILY apply it to either slot, aero, or round ports.
I should have been more clear on that last part...I meant testing via graphing things in a program such as winisd. No program can account for every variable which is why I find the graphs can be very misleading. Sure it's a rough idea of what you're getting but between cabin gain and how you actually decide to lay out the sub and port will make a drastic difference in what that graph actually comes out to be. We've had this convo before and it just goes back and forth so let's just leave it at that, cause frankly I'm tired tonight and don't feel like typing anymore lulz
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Use 91% rubbing alcohol with a qtip. Then let it dry. Then use an eraser and blow out the shaving
I actually asked Robin what he thought and he suggested rubbing alcohol as well lol. I'll bring the HU in for surgery tomorrow and let it sit overnight to dry. I really hope it's just something funky with the connectors...if I can't get a new faceplate that means finding a whole new HU which I don't have the cash for right now
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Unless you are competing in SPL there's really not much point in going over the 1500w-2kw mark.
I know a lot of people who would disagree with that statement lol some people just like loud daily drivers.
I could have qualified that statement a little better....but for someone like the OP with a single sub setup there's not really any point. If he were running a half dozen drivers then yes that's a different situation.
Agreed. There are plenty of ways to make a setup loud and sound good without throwing thousands and thousands of watts of power at it. I would stick with around 2000w and focus on just making the box efficient. You will get close to the same performance at a lesser cost. Worst case scenario you lose like 1db on the meter, lol
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My Pioneer MVH-8200 recently has been having faceplate issues where it seems like it isn't making a good connection and if I push in the faceplate sometimes it causes the unit to turn off then back on (most likely because it loses connection then regains). I live in maine so it gets pretty cold and I'm wondering if there is some moisture in there that's causing issues. If that is the case what do you think I could do to help clean off the connectors? I tried looking on ebay and amazon for a replacement faceplate and couldn't find one, and when I emailed pioneer they gave me the usual round around with warranty (which I don't have the info for since I bought it used)
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Rules of thumb are usually based off theory, and they are theories for a reason...each design is different and will call for different specs. As for designing, I don't do any graphing or T/S spec testing before hand and I've never had a box that didn't work well. You can test as much as you want but common sense and fundamental knowledge of acoustics and physics will go much further imo...
Bracing for the onslaught of replies about how not graphing the box first is stupid
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Unless you are competing in SPL there's really not much point in going over the 1500w-2kw mark.
I know a lot of people who would disagree with that statement lol some people just like loud daily drivers.
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What's the song @ 2:35?
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RMS is NOT a measurement of how good a sub is...in the car audio world "you get what you pay for" could not be any more true. Not being able to afford, or refusing to believe something that costs more than something else does not equate to being ripped off..
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If you're running 2 amps can't you strap them and just use the one knob?
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Does Fi even have a website?
Really?
Ficaraudio.com
*Woosh*
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Does Fi even have a website?
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Pics when it comes in!! I love driver pron.
Why stop there?
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You can pick up a 2200 for $300 shipped, there a ton of them around. You shouldn't need an HO alt for just a 2200, especially if you have a sierra. Your stock alt should already be pretty big. I have a 90a stock alt, batcap 2k under the hood and a c&d 270FR (~70AH) in the back. When I'm driving around my voltage usually hovers around 12.8v - 13.0v on songs like thug motivation where it's just constant bass. Amp doesn't get warm at all from it
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Enclosure Designing
in General Audio
Posted
If you don't know how a particular vehicle's acoustics will affect the response of the sub you put in it, all modeling will do is allow you to do a comparison between two different subs, which is very useful. But just modeling up a single type of sub won't tell you anything meaningful. If NetResponse = CabinGain + SubResponse, and you don't know cabin gain, you can't possibly know the net frequency response of the system.