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mlstrass

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-1 A few mistakes

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About mlstrass

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  1. I see the 3 experts have chimed in. So tell me how many 155-160db on music sets up have any of you built? Since we already know the answer is ZERO, tell me how it is your have any idea what it takes to make mids/highs keep up with the bass at that level? Old thread, so I'm hoping the OP ignored you bozos and figured things out on his own....
  2. mlstrass

    trying to break 155 dbs

    you will have to ROLL up the volume with the amps at .25ohm each. Highly unlikely that they'll street beat that low, but I've seen them do it at .33... .25 each will easily get you your 155+, should be a 56+
  3. You don't need midbass assuming you'll primarily be playing rap stuff when you demo. Midrange PA speakers will be fine. I run Selenium mids and Crescendo XST supertweeters, also have some Pyle bullets that others have hated on and more then likely have never heard. My front stage keeps up with 160dB's of bass and sounds pretty good when playing real music. That's about all you can ask for when doing a build like that. Setting up xover points/slopes and some EQ work help a lot, as does NOT overpowering the crap out of the speakers. I prefer to run more speakers then necessary with modest power levels. Everyone can throw out their opinions on what will/won't work but I've done a LOT of these set ups and speak from experience....
  4. mlstrass

    Audio technix deadener.....

    I used several rolls of the 80mil about 4 weeks ago. Vinyl backing pealed off easily and it went on fine and seems to stick very well. I'm thinking you got a bad batch, so hopefully he makes it right. Only deadener I've had issues with so far was the ss b stock I bought a few years ago, seemed to have zero adhesive properties to it. SDS tiles are the best product I've ever used.
  5. mlstrass

    wtf? dc power

    Still no return phone call and I've left messages 2-3 times per week. Going on 16 months since I paid for it. Can't get my alt or my money refunded since all I ever get is voicemail and they never call back. Robbie at DC is the biggest douche I've ever dealt with in car audio. Seriously hope that nobody supports his joke of a company....
  6. mlstrass

    wtf? dc power

    Been another 4 weeks since my latest line of BS/excuses. Robbie won't return a phone call or email. I've asked for my $$$ back several times. Beyond sick of this joke of a company. Team mate ordered 2 390's 3 weeks ago and got them today. Why can't I get mine. DC = doesn't come Sucks they have the best alts out, but their CS is non existant. I can only imagine if 1 of the 2 I have ever fails.
  7. mlstrass

    wtf? dc power

    DC has the best alts out there IMO, but CS is horrible if you don't have a GM vehicle. Going on 14 months now since I paid for my 390xp and I still don't have it. 270xp for my altima took 3-4 weeks. 270xp for my van took 9+ months, 390 was paid for in March of 2011. If I didn't think they were the best I wouldn't still be waiting. I have team mates with GM vehicles that get alts in under a week.
  8. mlstrass

    Soon to be running 5k on the hdc3's

    30Hz is pretty low for those subs if you want to get the best numbers out of them. Where do you peak? Tuning higher would more then likely up your score...
  9. mlstrass

    Aq hdc4 18?

    I switched from 3's to 4's over the winter. I've only played them loud on songs in the mid/upper 40's so far. Was good enough to take out another windshield a few weeks ago. Seem to have plenty of punch to them on the rock/metal stuff I've played. I'll see how they do on the low stuff next weekend at a comp. I run a 3500 at .5ohm on each one and they seem to take it just fine.
  10. mlstrass

    HDC3 or UFO BTL

    If I had 1500watts to play with and was looking at FI subs, the Q or BL would be my choice...
  11. mlstrass

    HDC3 or UFO BTL

    mostly because the majority of the people recommeding the FI sub have never owned or heard one. OP if you want to go with the HDC do 7cubes net, 16^2 port area and tune 34-35Hz if you plan to mostly play low stuff. I run a single 18" HDC in my daily driver... There are obvious reasons to pick the BTL over the HDC any day... Perhaps if you stated those "obvious" reasons there would be at least one more useful post in this thread...
  12. mlstrass

    HDC3 or UFO BTL

    mostly because the majority of the people recommeding the FI sub have never owned or heard one. OP if you want to go with the HDC do 7cubes net, 16^2 port area and tune 34-35Hz if you plan to mostly play low stuff. I run a single 18" HDC in my daily driver...
  13. mlstrass

    cresendo audio Ft1-se

    x2 100 watts is WAY too much for those tweeters and 1 per door is plenty for your mid set up. I run the Nendo XST's, 2 per door, but I have a LOT of pa mids also. Not sure how these will compare to the AQ supertweeters, but I've installed a few sets of those and they sound quite good. VERY full bodied and able to get quite loud, but not harsh/shrilly sounding at all.
  14. ported box tuned mid/upper 30's is what I'd do. I run AQ HDC's and listen to mostly 80's metal. They have a lot of punch on kick drums. 2 12's or a single 15 as it takes some decent cone are to feel that thump in the chest... I run a 15" FI Q in the wife's car and it's solid on metal also. Ported enclosure...
  15. mlstrass

    Subs Smells At Higher Notes.Why?

    higher notes have much less excursion = much less cooling for the VC's you might not have been clipping, just now you've lowered the power even more so the subs aren't being pushed as hard. You might be able to lower the LPF and turn the gain back up going off your clipping indicator to know how high to set it...
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