tejcurrent

I've been working on brackets for numerous GM trucks and cars, but it seems there are a lot of vehicles where nothing is available. For those interested in a multiple alternator bracket for their vehicle and they aren't sure if I have one available, please ask here. Once you request a bracket I will look into making one as soon as possible, or let you know if I have something already ready to go. Please include the make, model, year, and engine size of your vehicle. It is important to have this information because some vehicles had small changes between years that make a big difference. Thanks, Troy

I got my first BTL 18 about 5 months ago, fully loaded dual 2 ohm version. It was the fist 18 I'd purchased or even heard in person, so I was a bit skeptical because of the mixed things people say about larger drivers as far as quality go. The last two setups I had owned were a kicker L7 15 in 5cubes tuned around 32hz, and and alpine type-x 12 in 1.1cube tuned around 32hz. I had been trying to find a very loud woofer that still sounded half decent, and while the alpine sounded nice, and the kicker got loud, neither did both very well. The kicker was very loud though, so I was really trying to find something that could out-do it. When I started trying to find out about the Fi products, I was extremely surprised to find out that I, the lowly consumer, was able to talk to the men behind the product, and that was amazing to me. The customer support was great from day one, and the interaction with scott/nick/shawn on everything was so helpful, I knew I was in for something good. I built a box 8ft^3 tuned to 35hz for daily with about 115sqinch of port area, but tuned a little high so I could put up a bit better score. There was a double thickness of 3/4inch mdf for the baffle, and 3/4 for the other sides. I couldn't wait to put my Hifonics bxi2006d on it, run with 1/0stinger wire from the 3 batteries and 200amp alternator. I have an alpine 9831 head unit, and CDT components, all I needed was that sub to strengthen the low end. I noticed upon arrival that the packaging was very good, and even though the weight was somewhere near 70lbs everything was intact. The sub looked great, beefy in all aspects, and was huge to say the least! I put the sub in the box and put it in my 99 yukon with adrenaline pumping in anticipation. I kept the volume low, and put in some rock to see how it would handle the kick drums. Whoa, it was articulate and crisp, and sounded DEEEP. After playing with it a while, I put in some rap, Jeezy I believe, and was taken back at the output. A normal listening volume is between 5-7 notches, but I kept cranking the nob, and at a volume of 10 it passed the output of the alpine (when at full tilt), at 13-14 it passed the Kicker L715 (when at full tilt), and it just kept going. At a volume of 20, I could still not hear any distortion, and the volume was incredible. I cracked my drivers window open and felt the air gushing in, actually blowing my hair - which had never happened with my other subs. It sounded controlled and deep, unlike any sub I'd heard before. So much for the 'sloppiness' of larger woofers, this was clean and simply amazing in output. I stepped out of my yukon and looked at the flex of the body. The lock on my trailer hitch was jumping, and my rear doors were moving like they wanted to come open. Getting back in, the bass in Young Dro-Jackie Chan hit so hard it took your breath away, and the lows in hypnotize by Jeezy made the air move in and out of my lungs like nothing else. A few days later I went and got metered. I knew it was louder than the low 140s I was hitting with the l7, but not sure how much. I put in some test tones and went to work on it, finding the peak to be at 42hz. I hit 148 and change, and still 145 and change at 32-34hz. I built a new box a few days later, CRX style with 7.5cubes tuned to 35hz w/ 115 sqin of port. This time I hit over 149. Since then I've purchased a 2nd sub and amp to match, and hit ~149 at 32hz, and a little under 151 @ 42. It stays loud from the low lows up, instead of dropping off where many others do. Now about 3 months since I've had both going, they've had time to break in. The SPL is still rediculous, they pound all day without a problem. After breaking in some of the initial tightness of them is gone, but that can be expected. I would say the SQ is not quite that of an alpine type-x- but close, and MUCH louder than average. I have a 4kw+ amp on the way, and plan to get another to give them a grand total of 8000+ watts, so I will update when I get this done. Being that this is my daily driver I do not plan on tuning higher, but I am very very satisfied with the sq that this spl driver can maintain. I've had people with 'competition' setups get in my car and have a shocked look on their face. I've had people who brag to be hitting in the 160s with 6 12's get in my car, and jump back out saying how ungodly loud it sounds -especially on the lows. Overall they are the best subs I've ever owned, great all around. Hope this helps with someone when trying to find a great sub, for a great price, that really belts out the power and sounds good doing it.

I'm going to quadruple this setup in a few months, but I pulled the trigger and bought one so I could do some testing. Not just on the sub, but I have alts that I like to test in-vehicle, and I can move 1 18 that can handle a ton of power around from vehicle to vehicle pretty easy. This temporary setup is 1 18 TSNS in 5ft net @ 35Hz. It's 70sq of port and kerfed. Amp is an American Bass 1000.1 @ 4 ohms with 3 D3100s and 1 240a alternator. Having owned numerous beefy subs I will say the weight and size of the motor on this thing makes it the most impressive looking. 102 lb ship weight The sub has direct 8g leads, using Raptor wire. The Raptor is on the left, some scrap "Amp King" stuff I've had for years and got for free on the right. And the test box: And a short vid. This is with the amp set to keep above 13v with just 1 alternator. I'll post a review a bit later on this evening, but I'm pretty impressed with it. There are a lot of things that I would have done differently if I wanted to spend the money, but this is a cheap test box that will fit my needs and costs very little to build.

I hooked up the Soundigital amp, I figured if I wait much longer shipping insurance wouldn't cover it if it didn't work or something so I had to check it out. Works good, and I can say I have no clue what people are talking about when they say the SD amps don't play the lows. It sounds just like it did off my 4 channel amp, just louder. I have less charging upgrades that when I was running the 1000.1 so I can't turn it up as much, but it's loud. It's pretty obvious after just a few minutes of playing around this amp has more power at 4 ohms than the 1000.1- so I'm pretty excited to clamp it with a few alts and batteries.

I did, we are trying to work out things to get a few ASAP. In the mean time I've ordered a new CNC setup for myself, so if they don't get things made any quicker than the last shop I will be able to make them myself. I'm sorry for the wait a few customers have gone through- I'm trying to get you guys squared away and make sure it never happens again. Thanks, Troy

Thanks! Man I remember that, the truck had soo much more in it but I couldn't get the juice. I've had people bust my balls on the score, but 153.4 sealed at that show wasn't my highest, and it was at 32Hz. I'm hoping I'll get down to meter the one TSNS before the others arrive- they'll probably be here in 1-2 weeks.

Thank you. Anyone interested in alternators please PM or email me at tejcurrent@tejcurrent.com. I will have alternators available for some Chevy and Ford vehicles, but most of my efforts are focused on making brackets to house larger or multiple alternators on vehicles. I do not plan on making alternators for foreign vehicles - though some can fit a bracket and additional or large case replacement. At this point the sale is over, and there are several new models available. Thank you everyone who participated.

Having used many different alternators on my Tahoe, some time ago I began working on an alternator that would fit my needs. Using the large ad244 case and all brand new components, these are geared for daily use in almost all GM trucks and suv's from the early 90's up to '05. The plug is an oval 4-pin, which through an adapter may fit other harnesses, and can be made to fit 05+. You can expect to see idle output at 150 amps and 230 amps at highway speeds. I actually tested over 170 amps consistently and repeatedly on engines idling in the 7-800 rpm range, which is where many manufacturers rate things, and many v6 models run. I feel that 600-700 rpms is pretty average idle speed, so that is where my ratings come from. They do not come powder coated, though that can be added if desired. Features: - Thermal protection - No dash 'warning' lights - Easy Bolt on replacement - 100% brand new, assembled in the US - STANDARD 1 year warranty - 150 idling amps - 230 amps at 1800 engine rpms This alternator replaces the factory alternator on mid 90s + Blazer, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, and many other v6/v8 GM engines using the small AD230 and of course the large case AD244. The normal price will be 325+ shipping, for the next month I will be offering this alternator for $315 shipped to the cont. US. This is a great deal for the idling output these alternators are capable of, and with a 1 year warranty included you can't go wrong. For sales please contact sales@tejcurrent.com, or simply buy with credit card or paypal from the pre-sales section of tejcurrent.com. Here is an image of the alternator on the left, replacing the small case alternator in a 96 Chevy 2500.

Right now I'm not starting any new projects until I smooth out the CNC problems I've had lately. I was expecting something done long before now, but I do not expect to have this bracket ready to ship until some time near the end of next month or a little after that. Thanks for all the interest everyone, I plan on releasing quite a few new brackets soon, but please know I will not start any new projects for at least a month. Troy

The problems I've had with the shop and CNC times have been unacceptable, but completely beyond my control. I'm trying to find an alternative shop to get the work done asap- but until I finish my personal shop some time this summer I am at the mercy of outside machine shops to complete the brackets. I'm told the CNC will be fixed by the end of the week every time a repair person gets on the phone, or I talk to the shop owner. A week after that products should start shipping again, but as you've expressed the week or so I've been promised has been exceeded by a LOT. I'm very sorry this problem has been passed on to the few of you who I accepted pre-orders from, at this point I'm holding off on all new brackets and pre-orders until I have product in-hand so this does not happen again. I'm trying to work out a deal with another shop to get things going sometime this upcoming week, and get you guys squared away. Again I am very sorry for the wait, I never expected to keep anyone waiting more than the time I promised. Its not right to you guys, and as this thread shows it makes me look bad- which I certainly don't want. As far as emails I've had several problems with lost emails from the email servers side- I don't know why, and unless I know I wont have issues I'll be switching so I know I'm getting everyones email. Due to a few family issues (sickness etc) I got backed up with my emails. I believe I'm pretty much caught up, so there should be little to no wait for a response. If anyone doesn't hear from me after a day please try again, I don't mean to keep anyone waiting! Thank you for those who have waited, I'm doing everything I can to take care of these problems and get your bracket shipped out quickly. Please know YOU WILL BE TAKEN CARE OF! Troy Jones

Thanks guys, ford302redneck- got an email today that I should be able to pick up the remaining the TSNS 18's If anything falls through I'll get in touch. I'm going to drop my old box that housed the 4 btl 18s in when the subs arrive just to test. It's been out in my shed for a few years, so I don't expect it to be in peak shape, but it should be an interesting drop-in comparison. It's already fiberglassed so that should be a plus. Then I'll work on the new box as I have time- and see how these like 20ft @ 36Hz and 240sq of port. I'm not saying price isn't a factor, but it does seem you get what you pay for with most things. I would rather spend a bit more and get what I want than wind up unhappy. I must say this sub is my favorite to date, and honestly I haven't found any 'cheap' 4" coil driver. I would trust most good subs (BTL, ZCON, DC LVL 5, etc) to handle 3500 rms for music, but I should have even fewer problems with this.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the nice words! Man I'm learning patience, I love doing builds but as you can see from the stack of unfinished aluminum I HATE polishing these bars. It's tedious and boring, but I want the result bad enough I'll put in an hour here and there. I talked to a shop that wanted a few hundred to do it for me- which honestly is almost worth it but I like saying I did it myself. I've considered BTLs, DC LVL 5, and ZCONs, and numerous options if T3 can't make another 3 to match (or I can't find them quickly and recone to have 3 new matching subs.) If this happens I've looked into the Treo CXTs, RD SHW (not really an option), Soundstream XXX, and DC Lvl 6. The TSNS at this point is my favorite option so I hope it works out. I've even considered 6 3" coil 15s but I don't want to do that. They ran out of stock and instead of buying parts elsewhere they are going to be making the motors in house- buying magnetizer(s) and such, so they estimate 2012 before they start making new T2000 and TSNS subs. At least thats what I get from their posts in a nut shell.

Thanks! Its a really tedious process with this aluminum. Maybe there's a better way, but here's what I've done: Powered sander: 110 grit 220 grit hand sand 320 400 Wet sand with 600 1000 2000 Polish with buffing wheel and aluminum polish. You get a mirrored look just after the 2000, but a quick buff gives it a 'deep' mirror look, but without the excessive sanding you see scratches and even skipping the 2000 gives you a hazy finished product. Trying like hell to get 3 more TSNS 18's, but they're hard to find- T3 is low on stock until 2012

Thanks, I still have a long way to go All these left to hand sand and polish So I decided to at least hook up my existing 4 + 4 - runs of 1/0 and 4ch amp so I can get some music while I drive Once I get a few more blocks ready I'll hook up the 16k- with just 1 alt and battery though so pretty tame till the alts are in and the battery rack welded up.

Thanks guys, Lance, you'll get a call it was a trooper. A bit more work done, but the files were corrupted and I lost most of the pics. Here's what remains: 1/4" plexi, vinyl wrapped the 'lid' From just the right angle you can see the aluminum fasteners for the plexi. Looking to clean up my fuse holders under the hood. It's just a thin mockup, but you get the idea.

Thanks! I figure things can look good in pics, but I'm doing this for myself and I have to live with it if I do a crap job. I'd rather tear it out and start over if I mess up than fudge it. Actually I did that today. I bought a huge sheet of vinyl (adhesive sticker crap) to cover the busbar rack. Glossy and looked awesome, but I couldn't get it to lay down right. I got a few creases in it and it ruined the whole look. I removed it, sanded things with some 220, and threw down paint since I can do that half decent lol. A $40 mistake I learned from anyway. I knew right away why I was getting pulled. I've been careful not to get a ticket but with the kids + wife in the car I didn't see the cop till I was up on him. Normally I roll a window down as I pass so he can see me out of courtesy and not wanting a ticket but didn't have time. When he walked up to the car I rolled my sunroof open and all the windows down, had my little kids staring at him the whole time. I understand the law, but I had my windows all down, a regular guy out with the family on a Sunday morning, going the speed limit and all. He just wanted to write me a ticket and get that money. Anyway, it's a good excuse to replace the chipped tint from careless passengers.

I only got a little bit of work done today, but I didn't have much time and I probably wont have spare time again for at least a few days. Trying to figure out the dimensions I want the opening: And the hole cut in the top plate: Laying the bars out on the base: I was going to measure and mark the holes to drill with a ruler, but I forgot I had my special deep-hole marking pencil: False floor in place with busbars angled with the seats: A few more adjustments for wiring: And a few coats of paint on the floor:

I got pulled for tint Sunday, I guess I was due after 4 years in this vehicle with a layer of 5% and a layer of 20%. Court is in 2 weeks, a Wednesday I think, so I set up an appointment to have my tint removed that Monday Then Friday I'll be putting the new tint on I never had my windshield tinted, but I figured I'd put on a layer of 45% up front too. The way I'm looking at it is as long as I don't have to pay full price on the fine I'll have the extra cash to upgrade the tint. I'm not the kind of person who's like 'f the police' or anything, I have no tickets on my license, etc etc, but seeing my one kid get sunburned while sitting in a family members car last summer I'll keep my tint.

As long as you have half an idea of what you're doing you could do most of it with a drill press- which it sounds like you shouldn't have any problems getting it going. I met a machinist who got MRSA and almost died from respiratory failure. I forget the details but he was breathing some crap in he shouldn't have while running the machines and got the infection.

Honestly I wouldn't use a 1100 for busbars unless you're just drilling holes straight through with no thread. Like the copper busbars pictured earlier the softer metals are too soft for my preference. The copper for instance is so soft it gets 'gummy' when trying to thread it. A slightly harder alloy makes it better for machine work, and if you go 'beefy' it wont make a noticeable difference. The whole busbar setup started out as one 1" x 2" x 10' aluminum bar- which can be purchased between $75-200 depending on where you buy. I have a metal chop saw- this one actually: You could just use a miter saw with a metal blade, should work fine if you take your time with it. If you mean the actual holes that was done on a Bridgeport:

Brandon, I'm sorry you didn't get a response. Please resend your email if you get a chance, I've cleared my inbox and checked my bulk and don't have anything from you. Thanks, Troy

I'm sorry, I'm updating the site with some new models and didn't want anyone to buy an alternator I'm not making anymore. I offer several different alternators, so please just shoot me an email when you get a chance and I'll give you any information you need.

Great work, those doors look awesome!

Thanks! I'm not 100% sure since it's been a few months, I want to say 3003 off the top of my head. Don't hold me to it though.

Back to the base, I removed all the sides and threw it on the table saw. A few inches later it looks a lot better to me. I also increased the overall height of the rack to fit a tad closer to the seat so there's almost no gap. This meant new end caps and center divider- also I made a false floor inside the amp area to angle the amp with the top of the rack. Once that was done I painted the amps compartment black. The busbar area will be white, but I don't want people to see into the small gap around the amp. While that was drying I cleaned up the existing wiring, removed an OOOLD 1/4" aluminum ground busbar. It was grounded to the frame and had 3/8" bolts for the amps, but it's been upgraded by a lot lol. Oh- and my brothers chainsaw leaked oil on the carpet a while back - I'll be shampooing or replacing the whole thing since those stains are looking nasty. I'll probably wait until my kids get older and stop messing everything up. Wrapped in vinyl that matches my interior panels: False floor for the busbars And that's it this week, back to real work. 4 more runs of 1/0, install the busbars, and start on the battery rack next week.