evandostert

Just upset at a broken amp. Needed to vent. Nice new box comes in you put a bunch of work into everything. Then its now working.

I got an audio pipe 1300 amp. Connected it up and it didn't work. I am now gonna try and return it.

Final answer. Found a nice new audio shop. Audio pipe amp was toast. I wired perfectly

You do want to keep the vents. There are a few possibilities. The easiest is to see if you have enough clearance to add some closed cell foam at the contact points. If you're lucky, they'll open and close as they did before, but won't make any noise. The second possibility is building a baffle that will let air pass through and reduce the sound. Going to be more difficult and hard to hide. Passenger side causes most of the issues. Thats the one to block off.

Slightly better results. I turned up the bass setttings on the H/U I never touched anything from the amp. I am assuming I should tweak that next.

The amp light up perfectly. I tried the ipod and yes it worked.

k. So I have double checked absolutely every connection and everything was installed clean neat and perfect. I still have no sound from my woofer. I am including images I am thinking it's an issue with the pre outs? Can anyone point me in the right direction. Everything is tight and perfect. I know the cap is crap. I am waiting for a new kinetic battery. under back seat Uploaded with ImageShack.us and behind my pioneer Uploaded with ImageShack.us Yes I turned on the subwoofer feature on the deck

Ok I just got an audio pipe 1300 amp it's a 2 channel amp. If I wire it two the outside + and - and hook it up to a 4 ohm single coil sub will that show as a 2 ohm load bridged and give it 600 watts or read it as 1 ohm and 300 watts??

I dyna matted over the passenger one. half over driver side. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

finished my back wall today Wish I took a pic of the dynamat too. Uploaded with ImageShack.us A blast from the past I found my first real back in the day system Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I run a 150 shot. Yes it responds super smooth and I can spray right off the line. AWD keeps it planted the tires squeel but have never ever broken free. I have a wot trigger and remote opener and warmer going on it. That was my interest in the 12 volt stuff and lead me here. I want to reinstall it and have it fully automated trigger to turn on. Gentlemans NOS to give you an idea. So I am looking up installing relays a new progressive controller blah blah. I had it wide band tuned and it's safe and effective. Runs a tad rich on the wet side. I will post my drag run and time slips. So no one declares B.S. I run great times. Drag circles talk trash and like to call people out for no reason. Internet dragsters if you will. I have every bolt on possible built tranny stall converter to much to even list here. This truck is my daily work vehicle So I need safe fast and reliable.

So I got a box off ebay. Omg yes I did it. I am looking at it. Fits well looks good it's solid but the inside shows a different story. My speaker cups have huge gapr around them where air can escape. The glue is not thick or sealing the box very well. No I am not building a new one. a few questions. 1= What would you use to reglue it from the inside?? 2= What would you cover the terminal holes with?? 3= what are you installing the speaker with??

a little more progress today Uploaded with ImageShack.us

So far a little more progress Uploaded with ImageShack.us Carpet really looks gross. I am ordering another one now.

I have a audio pipe amp 1300 amp rated at 300W RMS@4 Ohm (<1% Distortion) 600W RMS@2 Ohm (<1% Distortion) 1000W RMS@1 Ohm (<1% Distortion) and a sealed box for a 12" woofer at about 0.9 volume What sub would you guys purchase under 200$$ Link tp my build