duanebrow

LOL. You didn't say at what frequency you hit your 141 at. Simply tuning closer to your peak frequency will give you a lot more spl normally. I understand that you don't want a spl box, I just brought it up because you could get a much higher number if sounding good doesn't matter. As far as things that could help spl, adding bracing to the box or deadening the truck would be a good place to start I think.

Yes you can. You need the Dual 2 version of the sub to get a 4 ohm load btw.

That looks like what I got.

Looks like you need to go shopping for a AVR.

going from 5k to 10k should give you 3 db in theory. Going to a 5-6 cf box will give you the same gain on 5k.

Hello from Grand Blanc! (East side of the state)

Layer MDF and then void free plywood. change up the seams between layers to make the box even stronger.

I have found tapered TL's work for speakers that want really small boxes tuned low. They are no harder to build than a slot ported box. Horns, yes, they are a PITA because of the size.

LOL. I guess what I modeled would be called a reverse taper, offset, rear loaded horn. But that is how you model a TL in hornresp. The taper, or area of the of the exit, can also affect the tuning. The ported designs are EBS types. So they are giving up efficiency for extension. This is why they model at a lower spl per watt. Also I used different programs for the different designs so that could be a variable.

I used hornresp to model a transmission line (TL). If Sundown's specs are correct, I think that the sa-12 is a good driver for this type of box. fr starts to roll off at 20hz. Volume is just over 2 cf. Plus it is about 2-3 db more efficient than a vented box. The biggest reason to use this type of box over a ported box is because it doesn't use a "port". When you tune a ported enclosure really low the port gets really long. And you need a big port for this driver, making the box bigger. So a TL ends up being smaller overall.

Many plate amps have a ssf/highpass at ~20hz. So you may want to check into it. I would also model a 2.5cf box @20hz. This keeps excursion down to 14mm @500watts. You aren't gaining much with a bigger box. There is a new version of winisd on facebook btw. Have fun, Duane

Sealed boxes are very forgiving. With that box size you aren't going to be able to tell the difference in changing the volume a foot or so.

Whoops, that is not a good recommendation. You need dual 4 ohm vc. subs for a 1 ohm load. LOL. They would be way under powered with your amp, please ignore and keep looking.

Welcome, if you want to go with 15"s is look at these: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-469 They can work in a small box and ported or sealed.

Just add a brace that holds the other end of the port.

The tube will be strong enough without any modification. They fill these with concrete all the time.

Alright, thats what I did previously. But I felt like I didn't know enough about the output plots to really know what was going on. I also figured that the models would be very far off from the actual response, but I suppose using such a program gives a good guess... It is closer for home use than in a car. there are better programs out there but they are much more difficult to use. You can have a null in a room where the subs output is canceled out by its reflection, moving the sub is a good way to check this out. (And some rooms just suck out bass) Anyway, have fun.

I'm on my phone, so I might miss a few things. As far as the ohms being 5.5 - I would think that is fine. If you did damage to the drivers they will make noise when you use them. Like the vc rubbing. I have seen very high power change the T/S specs before though. But that is a whole different subject. With WinISD, yes it will give you some crazy numbers. It is just giving you a starting point based off of the drivers specs. You need to play with the box size and tuning to get a design that works for you. Fwiw - many car audio subs have a qts of about .5 this makes the "ideal" size box very big. But if you use a smaller box it will give a boost to the low end and roll off slower below tuning. Get the latest version of WinISD from their Facebook page. Try modeling your sa-8s in WinISD, put in your box design and see what you get.

I had a 8" sub in my house that did very well in a 19*30 room. I would check do the battery check to make sure they are in phase. Move the sub around to check for the best placement. Both of these have been suggested already, so this is move of a +1. Also, did you model your design? Or just guess?

how do you plan on removing the port? I would add wood decreasing the height of the port. You can add several to adjust the tuning to what ever you want. try it out first before you glue. The calculators are often high on their tuning frequency. The port doesn't end at the end of the port wall if three of the sides of the port are really the box and continue. Your car can also affect the tuning. You can use a simple jig and LIMP (it is part of ARTA - goggle it.) to get your box tuning in seconds.

I think you are on the right track with a crown amp. I have not shopped for a avr in years. So I can't recommend anything there. I would look at the voltage output for the lfe output. Pro amps often want more voltage the the home stuff. Do you have any specs on the subs? I know that tc sounds subs work well in small boxes, but that seems really small.

Very nice.

If you go to the spl tab on WinISD I would guess that you will see the gcon has more spl at the same power as the sa. Better power handling and a higher xmax of the gcon will lend it to getting louder, with lower distortion, than the sa - if you have room for the larger box. Every sub has trade offs, SSA and Sundown chose different ones.

Hey you should update your sig. I'm just here to see how this turns out.

I saw that elemental designs is clearing out their 8s for about 40$ I don't know anything about them, but that is a great price!