bugotti420

I'm just curious, what in the heck is the cause of my Fi SSD 15" terminals on basket to melt? I've think It's killed my amp - A kicker ZX1000.1 with little warning. I had everything wired correctly and it's been bumping flawlessly for several months when last week I noticed my amp was off. I started looking over all my wiring starting from the hood, to the amp, to the sub. When I pulled my sub out I noticed on one side of the coil the positive and negative, well rather the positive melted towards the negitive post and caused a short. Im just curious as to what caused this? I'm still running a stock alt in the car and I know the kicker amp drawed alot of power to where my battery under the hood is starting to swell up, lol, so I know low voltage is a big part of all my problems but would low voltage make it melt like that? I'm running all 1/0 wire, big 3, and I noticed under the hood from battery post to fuse post the wire was crispy, and basically burnt out, and rest of wire was fine untill I pulled the 1/0 out of the amp, it was kind of crispy there too but not so bad. I've been knowing this voltage drop is gonna be a bad outcome, and now I see. Think I have to forfeit car audio untill I can gather the cash to get my electrical done right. Money is too big an issue now. Anyone got any feedback on this KOB build? lmfao

Thanks for the info, yeah I still have plenty of time to think about what it is that I want to do. It probably wont end up being that much. Don't think I'd have enough room in the car to do anything that big unless I lost the backseat which I'm quite fond of. hahaStill time to plan ahead & things to think about! I just know it's time to do it right. Tired of the complications it ends up costing me more in the long run than if I did it right the first time lolol.

Yeah, lmao I know. Not too far north of Bryan/College Station ... Honestly I never hear of any shows down in the Houston area or I most def would probably be around them! I got a brother that stays in Cypress I occasionally go down there to visit. Would love to appear to one of those shows

Thanks for your input bro, I will look at this as an opportunity to get a better alt. That's where most of the wire burning is taking place. In between battery positive post to the fuse block I've taken it out the terminal and the wires just fall off as I pull on it thats how crispy burnt they were, from other side of fuse block to amp just a little bit toasty, put off a little dust in the air when rubbed. not TOO serious. I'm going to try and get a nice alternator though if I replace it. I want it to be up to par for a future build if moneyflow ever allows me to, lol. Something that might allow about 5000 watts . But that is where most of my problems originated, under the hood. the alternator charge wire to the battery etc... <--- I would have to maintain these wires under the hood, replace battery to fuse block wire quite often to keep the amp running due to not enough voltage reaching it I assumed....Thanks man:D

Yes they are push terms. Look durable. I'll get it right one of these days lhl

When I first got this car, the battery was fine, unswolled. Shortly after installing this system it swol up, looking like it was about to blow up. I replaced it, shortly after it did the same thing. I've never had this prob in my oldschool oldsmobille 91. I think it's alt was a 120amp. I can't find information to see how many amperage my stock alt is in this newer car but I think it's much lower than the oldschool. it's a 06' Saturn Vue Redline. Alternator is in bad spot cant just open hood and read information printed on it.The ground really is indeed solid, (I Thought, here's how it's done): it's down to the frame of the body which there wasn't much of, paint scratched and grinded off; clean surface. The only thing not solid about it, is it wasn't soldered. just clamped on end of wire and screwed into frame with a washer and self tapping screw. Very tight, will not move per hand movement. I do realize I am going to have to re-do everything, even big 3 after seeing the wires in this condition and that something is absolutely up with this install. Lets just say that my alt does only put out about 50-70 amps total, what would that do? I know it's terrible versus my oldsmobile back in the day, same amp and all. With that previous setup my voltage would never drop more than 13.5, in this new setup it can drop as low as 12.4 but averaging around 12.9 and 13.0. I can't help but feel it's a voltage issue, I never had it in my previous setup. same amp, same output but had different subs. so technically same thing? The fact that a brand new battery can swell up after a month of abuse. My dash lights would nearly dim all the way down to where they were almost off lol. HID bulbs so cant tell through headlights Thanks Edit*Note that these are only wal mart batteries I speak of. No since and getting a good battery if this is the result.*edit*

As stated before, in my first post, I had checked all my wiring and connections after the fact, in which everything was tight(<--Dont think i included that part lol), but looked a little burnt. I have a SMD DD-1, found clipping level of headunit, then set amp gains with the SMD DD-1 to match headunit. No wires were anywhere touching anything that they shouldn't of been touching lol, they weren't naughty So 1-3 I don't think was the case,On to speaker wire size: I used 8guage speakerwire. Think it might of been Rockford fosgate, don't quote me on it as it was just given to me. But non the less, 8guage speaker wiring. Thx:)

You are correct. 2 0hm stable, and it was wired down to 2ohms. sub is dual 1. Also amp gains were set via my SMD DD-1

Too much power, hmmm. the amp is rated 1000wrms, birth certificate said 1240wrms, accounting the voltage drop I figured it was about right at 1000wrms. Sub has got all options, and rated at 1000wrms, and sounds like it needs more powaah. I am running the sub with 8 guage wire though. IDK... I'll take that into consideration lol thanks

Sometimes you get defective stuff. Seems to happen to me all the time. You don't know anybody nearby with an oscilloscope or SMD DD-1 to check your amp out with? I'm rather a novice at this stuff myself so I'm not good on advice but seems to be (to me) if everythings hooked up correctly, what else is there at fault? Amp or radio ... Sorry if you've said it elsewhere, but what amp, radio do you have?

For what it's worth, I had an amp that I was being hardheaded about saying nothing was wrong with it, and that oh, it just wasn't set right. I got my SMD DD-1 in, hooked it up to the amp, it was shit. Produced a distorted signal with gain turned all the way down. Good to hear you're getting some positive results by modding the box tho

I think I understand this part ... I was looking forward to using my stickers when I ordered my sub, but come to find out it's the words Fi with the website, and a white background ... don't look good on a tinted window. Had to use a razor blade and cut the white background out but hey that mighta been the plan all alone. Was expecting it to be a peel off, stick to window, then peel a see thru piece off and it left the words on window type of deal. :S

Yeah, basically LAWL

Shexay! Grats brotha. Can't wait to see it!

How it worked for me, I got the tracking info I think it was, the same day of order, then allow said day build time.

Ooohhh. Me want MOAAR!

Woot should be here Tuesday. In transit This topic showed no love but UPS did haha. I gotta find some clamps now!

Heey you might remember me, I'm the dumbass who shorted out my coils on a new Fi SSD lmao. What was I thinkin, right?! Anyway I ordered the DVC 1 Ohm recone for the 15" SSD, and wondering if I can get an idear of when it may be getting close to shipping. I understand it is not of top priority and in no way am I trying to rush. We, or rather I, just like to get updates when allowed. Order I-16954/00 dated 10/08/2011 I know it is still soon but any info I can get would be muchly appreciated Btw for those that remember me, that coil rub I was talking about has seemed to work itself out after being wired correctly hahaha. I'm just looking for more powaah! now *reeeee coooonnne!*

I sure have'nt. But I'm pretty confident about it, watched many vids about it. Got a 3 oz kit already in, just waiting on the cone to come in to start. I don't have the clamps to clamp on while drying, will regular wooden cloth clamps be good enough? The ones you use to clamp clothes on the hanger outside for the old school peeps? Lol. That's really my only concern with the process. Also positive lead is always on the left side, no matter which way you turn it, correct? Hey I'm always down for some tips though

Haha Yeah figuring it wouldn't be soon but would be nice if I was suprised! I'm currently not without bass, it's just I've got used to the sub already and it's only getting at or around half power and this recone will make it see more powah! I have a feeling full powered sub is gonna kick-ass and I'm starting to anticipate it hehe

Hey guys, told you I'd be back ... lol ... I recently had the post concerning the enclosure design for the SSD 15 and got that all figured out and taken care off. it looks so sexy with it in the box! Looks like it belongs there lol. Well the Fi sub came in today and I've ran into a problem, and I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to recone it already within the first 5 minutes of play ... First off let me start off by giving some info, the box of course is tuned to 32hz, I do NOT have a subsonic filter. I was warned of this and my hardheaded self didn't think it would screw anything up that fast. (Almost instantly, bout 5 mins of play time.) The sub is a dual 2 ohm VC. running off of a Kicker ZX1000.1 monoblock amp stable at 2 0hms. VC wired in series and paralell to amp for a 4 0hm load. (not giving it my full power). I'm pretty sure this is an operator error, but also wonder if it could be a manufacture defect and I'm leaning more to the fact of it being my fault because I didn't listen. When sub was brand new and you pushed in on the sub, the suspension was tight it barely moved and it didn't make any "scratch" or rub noise. I played 30hz test tones on it repeatedly for about 45 minutes free air to try and break it in, and layed off of it when the sub was getting warm, still no "scratch" or rub noise. Everything was fine up untill I threw it in the box. It sounded so nice at first, I got so excited and I drove about 5 minutes listening to it at what I thought was low enough volume but when I turned it down I started hearing this loud distorted type of sound that I thought it might of been the plastic in the car just rattling but my friend said nah man it's your sub. I was in denial, no way it can't be ... it was actually my sub. I felt the sub and it was pretty hot then I pushed in on it with it turned off and you can hear a scratchy rub sound, I'm assuming this is coil rub. I got upset with it, and I let it cool down. Once cooled I said screw it, I'm already going to need a recone and I turned it back on loud. Here comes the strange part, to me because I'm not that advanced into the car audio or what I'm doing, but when it gets warm it doesn't make the scratchy rub sound but when it cools off again it makes the noise. Is the heat making the coil shrink a little so it doesn't rub, then when it cools off it thickens up again? Hows this work? ... I don't understand why it's getting so hot either I'm not giving it that much power I don't think, is it because I don't have the SSF and it's over excursion? I'm trying to find a SSF to buy but I'm not getting much info about it or it's called something else like a Fmod inline filter etc. and I am confused on which one to get, could anyone help me with that? And if I get one and my box is tuned to 32 hz, do I need a 30hz SSF? It has just really done my head in, I was so excited about it and now it's screwed ... IT still plays but gets too hot quick and you can smell all the adhesive (i'm guessing that's all that is lol) so I have to cut it down. I even set the HPF on it and turned it down to 50hz so it wouldn't let anything lower than 50hz to reach the sub and it still gets hot. (trying to figure out by myself), i know, HPF on a sub ... *sigh*) All in all I know I need a SSF I just don't know where to go to get one, or what type I need to get. Once I get that I assume I need to order a recone kit. Surely this isn't a manufacture defect but rather an operator error correct? Sorry if this post is screwed up I'm typing it out of anger lol and mainly mad at myself but too late now, trying to remember if I forgot anything ... Any help appreciated to explain what's going on and where to get my SSF. Thanks guys

Yeah man it is unfortunate for my wallet lol. But it is what it is, and I screwed up not the company so I have to pay for my mistakes. lol It hurts tho in my heart I wanna slap myself haha Grats on 1 year anniversary brotha

Yeah I didn't take my time I was just too excited to get some bass in my car and I had been without for months lol. If I paid attention I woulda realized where I went wrong. Almost as if I hooked the sub up blindly, my mistake and all part of learning. Charge it to the game haha

Yeah I'm pretty suprised it's still working myself lol but it is. The coil's not really black yet but you can tell it's a different color than it was brand new. May I ask you when I get the recone how will I wire it ? lmao how's the wiring going to be for a dual 1 ohm coil? I figure I better ask this time. But I'm sure I got it now I don't know what the hell I was thinking when I did it. Just ooooo SUB lets play it I guess haha

I don't think it gave me that option when I purchased the sub though. So I'm not sure if it is or not