GnomeAudio

thanks guys! i do feel like an old man....went to the liquor store to get some vodka on my bday for a "plugged mellon" and they didn't even ask for my ID. have you ever noticed that the older you get, the fewer presents you receive? when i was like 14, i'd clean up on my bday. now i'm excited to get a card and a free lap dance at the local titty bar.

still needs paint, a header pipe and a muffler......all in good time

Now that she's all cleaned up....

The Gnome Audio website and email servers are currently down due to a problem with the host. They should be up within the next few days, as soon as I get these issues resolved. If you have any questions about pending orders or need any info about Gnome Audio products, please contact me at donnballenger@yahoo.com.

the bike has around 9,400 miles on it and the only bad spot was a tiny bit of rust on the bottom of the gas tank, which has already been taken care of. i also removed the ugly plexiglass fairing. $550 cash I plan to sell it for at least twice that.

wall saws aren't very accurate, nor do they produce perfectly straight cuts. there are only two ways i know of to make cabinet-grade cuts: CNC router or a specialized cabinet makers tablesaw (one of the ones thats anchored to the floor and made of cast iron or a similar low-resonance metal.)

ok Screws equal better? You just said you only have to clamp. So why predrill and then screw and spend money on screws when you can just staple? And yes you can send staples threw 1". I have done it. I Run 120 psi into my gun that shoots up to 1 3/4 staples. And it sinks them. So now why are screws better? I think will already covered all the bases here but for your benefit, i'll do it again. 1. I don't have a pnumatic staple gun. Even if i did, i'd still probably use the screws for the simple fact that I like the way it looks and when building a custom product for a customer, speed isn't a high priority. I'm not working on an assembly line here and if it takes me an extra half hour to screw the damn thing together, so be it. I'd probably just use that extra half hour for cigarette smoking and beer drinking anyway. 2. In my experience with pnumatic staplers, its easier even for a pro to split the wood. you can put a screw in slowly if it's close to an edge to avoid splitting or draw it back out halfway thru if it acts like its gonna split. you have no such luxury with a 120PSI pnumatic stapler. you either get it right the first time or cut a new piece of wood. when i screw boxes together, i can also testfit the pieces before I glue them together, then back the screws out and apply the glue one piece at a time to avoid using clamps all together. 3. I like screws better. Neener neener neener.

these pics suck, but its gloomy outside and the flash isn't working on my cam...will have better pics in a few days.

and another! 1977 Honda CBR 750 Super Sport. 4 times as many cyllinders as the 500, 4 times as many carburators, 4 times as hard to fix, 4 times as likely that I'll get hurt on it

the SE's will be louder because of the added cone area....the xxx is a potent driver, however the excursion won't make up for the extra cone area that the two 12's have. The xxx's SQ is just as good if not better than the SE's, so that's pretty much a tossup. Either way you go, I'm sure you'll be happy....And I'll be more than happy to build your box

port plugs with t-nuts and a gasket

i think our friend helotaxi is catching on to something that the big dogs in the SPL world have known for years. its not about wavelengths or all that fancy-talk...its about knowing where the "hotspots" are and aiding their development near where the mics are to be placed. okay...i sorta contridicted myself, but follow me anyway. the acoustics of our friend the automobile, in short, suck. you have to know your car inside and out and spend hours upon hours repositioning ports and moving seats in hope of finding that magic combination. that, ladies and gents is SPL. cars that compete in meca usually won't do as well in dB drag because the mic placement is different and vice versa. i'm sure there are exceptions to this rule, so feel free to correct me. the box design isn't as huge a role as you might think. you're looking for efficiency and as little friction as possible. moving air is the name of the game. the correct port area to sd ratio is also very important. bigger ports move more air, but there is such a thing as over doing it. bracing is your friend, and you can even use sand or concrete to create a more acoustically perfect, non-resonant enclosure. some exotic bandpass and transmission line boxes do get very loud. they also take a lot of time, practice and know-how to get right. i am in no way refuting mr edwards, but i don't think that most people need to be so well-versed in wave theory and mathematics to get loud. all you need is a mic, a few free evenings, a friend and a case of beer ps. beer is optional. however, its a great motivating factor and most of my friends don't work free.

Here's how she sits right now. I'm in need of: A new gas tank, new kick-start lever (not broken, just really rusty and ugly), new front fender, chain guard, various screws and bolts, left front turn signal, motor cover (again, it works, it just ain't pretty) and a new seat. If anyone knows a lot about older yamahas or knows where i can find the listed parts, please email me!

and after....i'm going to have to get that stubborn exhaust pipe powder coated or something.

heres the motor before 2 boxes of brillo pads and a whole lot of pressure washing.