Mike1982

I have a 99 toyota camry with 2 fi q 12s on a saz 3500v2 I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with camry. I have my subs & port firing to the rear & it is not bad but I was wondering if anyone has had the subs firing forward & port to the side & how it did vs. sub & port to rear. I am having a slot port built right now just wondering if anyone had gain or improvement doing this in a gen 4 camry. I am just looking for a suggestions I know ultimately I am going to have to just experiment because of all the uncontrollable variables. Here is my question do you think I should go for it & try subs forward port to passenger side or stick with what I know is doing well for me now. I did try firing the subs up & I did not like it at all.

I talked to kyle at dc power & got a 270xp but i have seen some people put the large case gm alternators on to the 2.2 camry i saw it on psi facebook page a while back think it was a singer alternator

If I decide to I'll give ya 1st shot but now I am having a proper enclosure built for them right now once that gets done I hope to be impressed. Cause the enclosure I have now is too small & the ports to big.

I just bought to 2 new fi q's not long ago guess im stuck with those but some DP 12s + another 3500 would be awesome.

I want some death penalties wish I had the money

I picked up this info off electron beam tech. FB page Oxygen free cables for car stereo systems. Are the benefits just a sales pitch? You decide. EB-flex cables are copper alloy C11000. Read on Audiophiles, below is from Wikipedia. C11000 - also known as Electrolytic-Tough-Pitch (ETP). This is the most common copper. It is universal for electrical applications. ETP has a minimum conductivity rating of 100% IACS and is required to be 99.9% pure. It has 0.02% to 0.04% oxygen content (typical). Most ETP sold today will meet or exceed the 101% IACS specification. As with OF copper, silver (Ag) content is counted as copper (Cu) for purity purposes C10100 - also known as Oxygen-Free Electronic (OFE). This is a 99.99%pure copper with 0.0005% oxygen content. It achieves a minimum 101% IACS conductivity rating. This copper is finished to a final form in a carefully regulated, oxygen-free environment. Silver (Ag) is considered an impurity in the OFE chemical specification. This is also the most expensive of the three grades listed here. C10200 - also known as Oxygen-Free (OF). While OF is considered oxygen-free, its conductivity rating is no better than the more common ETP grade below. It has a 0.001% oxygen content, 99.95% purity and minimum 100% IACS conductivity. For the purposes of purity percentage, silver (Ag) content is counted as copper (Cu).

I have bought a few brands of car audio cable over the past few years & looked at many others online during research but I finally decided to venture out & pick up some welding cable for the 1st time at 2.00 per foot I found it hard to resist. I bought some electron beam technologies eb flex 2/0 welding cable I have to say I am pretty happy with it so far but is 2/0 we will see how fun working with its hope I don't have to cram it into any 1/0 terminals or inputs cause I thought Knu kolossus was a little hard to fit into some 1/0 inputs. I have only used 4 brands of 1/0 wire and those are Knu Konceptz kolossus 1/0, Audio technix 1/0, & phoenix gold power flex 1/0. All of these are excellent wires & I have nothing bad to say about any of them because they have all worked well for me & not caused me any problems. This is just my observations I'm not doing this to "bash" any company this is just an honest comparison of some wires I own at the moment mainly cause I havent seen many pics of eb flex or comparison. I know that comparing 2/0 to 1/0 isn't comparing apples to apples look at the pictures & enjoy. The AT wire is black, Eb-flex 2/0 is bright red, Knu Kolossus is Dark Red

I think I'm addicted to getting packages in the mail lol

If anyone is interested I just saw a fb post knu Konceptz has kolossus 1/0 ofc b-stock 2.95 per foot http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KO-KFX0R

This is why I posted my review on this forum there are a lot of knowledgeable people here who give good advice & like help others.

I did notice that too about the casing too.

its pretty awesome its on sale this week & at 2.00 a foot I couldn't pass it up but their regular prices are just as great too I won't be buying anymore car audio cable (unless its just a super awesome deal of course). The customer service was awesome I ordered this stuff & literally the next day it was on my door step e-mailed me a copy of the receipt & it was packaged very well. Any ways I just wanted to share this with everyone so that they could get a good deal on some wire because bass heads need to look out for each other because this is a part of our life.

I was having a problem getting enough port area But I have decided to have someone design & build it for me.

I am trying to get a box together for my to fi q 12s & I am looking at about 5 cubes net (maybe too big for the subs possibly 5 cubes gross would be better?) after port, sub, bracing displacement tuned to about 32hz powered by saz 3500v2.I am stuck on port area or it was just less than I expected I could put 2 6inch aeros in but the length is what gets me. I was using the torres box calculator 5.57 per cubic foot & that seemed kinda low to me since the specs say 12-16ft per cu ft I know thats a general rule of thumb for slot ports but still. I guess what I need is some help designing a box my max dimensions are 19" Height x 39" Length x 17" depth. This is going in the trunk of my 99 camry facing the rear. I was wanting to try aero ports but a good center slot port is not out of the question. I am trying to keep the depth down so MAX dimensions would be 19 inches Height x 40 inches length x 25 inches depth. thank you for you input & help I posted on this forum because I always get helpful answers from people who know what they are doing & I learn a little something too which is nice cause I like to learn everything I can about CA plus I don't know it all.

got it figured out

I just did mine today I used the Coat hanger & tape method myself cool to see I am not the only one to do that. I keep a few coat hangers around that I have stretched out that I use for running wire through the car it just simple, cheap & effective gotta love it.

I'm not having voltage problems was just a thought about reducing some heat around that area but thank you for the advice.

I have to say that I also wondered if my alternator would benefit from a heat shield but only because the alternator is mounted right next to the exhaust header.

Hi everyone I am looking for some suggestions on a good 3 stage battery charger to charge my 4 deka group 24 AGM batteries that is good for both agm & standard flooded batteries my budget is around $100.00. Desulphation a feature I would like to have. Some of the chargers I have been looking at are the Deltran Battery tender plus , Battery minder 2012 agm, NOCO Genius 7200. Those are just a few in my price range I am not looking for the best charger but one that will be safe for my agm batteries that will maintain, fully charge & keep them in top condition. I would greatly appreciate some suggestions & insight from you guys. Thanks, Mike

Give Dc creations a call that was what I did, Dustin is a nice guy. I bought an enclosure from him a couple years ago it was built well & he talked with me for an over an hour, a good dude.

sorry to hear about your troubles but at least it didn't catch on fire & burn your ride down the ground.

Awhile back when I was getting back into audio again someone in a fb group pasted a link on one of my comments & I checked it out. More recently I was interested in some new subs & was doing some research into the X-con but I ended up getting so FI q's this is a pretty good place for info on both of those subs.

when your system is worth more than your car & when you keep buying & selling equipment in search of something to just make you happy with your setup. I have some new subs & I need to install to see if they make me happy.

maybe try 10-32 or 1/4-20

I would just give it some time I sent an email on the website & took awhile to get response I sent Nick an email & he answered my question in like a day or two. It took a little while for status change of my order on the website but it was which worried me at 1st but it was no big deal cause they were just short staffed in the office. I feel the build time estimate was accurate cause I got my subs in about 15 days or so.