Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral


About EmanAbela

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Grazzi lil kullhadd tax-xewqat sbieh li qed tghadduli ;) B'day mal-kotba u l-pc ergajna dis-sena imma hekk ta' l-anqas intella l-moral. :D :D

  2. Thank you guys for your suggestions, today my friend demoed the Kicker KS. I must admit that I was not impressed as far as SQ goes, however they are very solid and remain clean even at higher levels.
  3. So finally I managed to hook the sub directly to the h/u using the sp input, everything went fine but still I didn't get any significant difference by eliminating the adapter. The strange thing was that the signal was rather weak, I had to set the sub gain nearly to full to get nearly the same power, and still it was not that loud
  4. Great info jdblya ! Well replacing the h/u in the first place is the best way to go, I perfectly agree. The reason I didn't replace it is that we have a high level of theft in cars in our area, replacing the factory h/u would definitely attract more attention. Apart from that, I am doing this cable thing to learn something as well and get ma hands dirty a little. I will certainly consider a processor in the future, seems quite a pretty device to get those deep lows
  5. Exactly my first taught, but the blue plug covers both power + fronts. I'm only concerned with the adjacent white plug which handles the rear out. Just want to figure out which y/b/r/w wires represent a positive or negative.
  6. Here is the back side of the h/u if it might be of any help
  7. Damn, I ran into another problem guys. So I checked the wiring diagram of my yaris. It seems that the guy that fitted the LOC connected the + out (according to the diagram) from the h/u to the - in on the LOC and vice verse. Should I stick with the wiring diagram? The other thing is that the wiring diagram is for the yaris 2007 in general (which is the model of my car of course), but factory stereos fitted in the yaris vary from region to region. The exact model of my h/u is a Panasonic W58824. The pins and cable colours also match from the wiring diagram I found to the actual pinouts on my h/u. Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you
  8. Cheers guys, fortunately the Hertz guy is willing to let me listen to the speakers and also heard good reviews about them. They do not seem to be pricey neither, at least when compared to the focal. Unfortunately the focal K series I'm afraid that is out of my price range. And yes I am planning on buying an amp. Still haven't decided if it shall be 2 or 4 channel amp to hook two rears in the future
  9. Thank you for your input ricksi30. What exactly do mean by demoing? I already streamed some youtube vids to get an idea (of course it still varies greatly when the sound is loaded into the car). Still I want to get some opininons what you pros think about the aforementioned comps. Thanks again for your help
  10. Hi guys, I am considering doing an upgrade on my factory speakers. I have a Toyota Yaris Hatchback with a current setup of stock head unit, stock speakers, and a pioneer bass tube (The Pump TS-WX20LPA). I am not into SPL, rather a solid SQ which at least I can impress my friends with and which I can enjoy listening of course. I live in a small country and the choice of brands is rather limited and few shops let you listen to the speakers before actual installation. So I'm counting on you guys to help me in making a good choice Right now on top of my list are the Focal Access 165A or the Kicker KS. I also went to a shop which supplies Hertz (I heard they also make good comps), but more stock is coming in a few weeks time, so I shall call again. Any suggestion much appreciated. Thank you.
  11. Ok managed to find the datasheet http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=58405 and interpret the polarity of the sockets. Yep, upper seems to be positive. Will set it up tomorrow and see how it goes
  12. Thank you for your input teambrownnote. From the h/u side it should not be a problem, I already have +/- marked as they are connected to the RCA adapter. However strange as it may seem on the sub they are not marked neither on the manual! However I found the Alpine MRV-100M which has an identical socket to my sub (2x2 and same alignment). On the manual of the alpine + are marked as the upper row. Can I assume that the same applies to the pio ?
  13. Thank you Alton. So now I spliced the wires of the 2x2 plug and connected longer speaker cables so that I can get coverage from the rear of the car (Sub) to the front (h/u). However, when I plugged the 2x2 into the terminal into the sub I noticed that the upper cables (the black ones) are corresponding to the + input. Aren't the black cables supposed to be negative ones ?! Thought I just ask before removing the adapter and start connecting from the h/u side
  14. Actually not all of the h/u gets hot, but there is a metal plate on the back which definitely exceeds the degree of "warm". But I haven't noticed any distortions or other symptoms from the speakers. I also tried to hook the sub directly to the h/u but it seems it is turning out into quite a complex task (for my newbie standards at least). Well the 4-pin speaker line input cable which was supposed to come with the sub is missing. I tried to contact the shop where I bought the sub from and told me it will take more than a month to arrive! Therefore I went to the computer store and bought a normal 2x2 molex connector (the likes of this one http://www.atmarkit.co.jp/fsys/cableconnect/09power/04power_atx12v-cbl-l.jpg ) However I would like to confirm from you guys whether it is up to the job quality wise. The cable is 16awg and I am planning to connect it to some normal speaker cables. Thank you and sorry once again for my newbiness